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big uh oh...

blakeski

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Apr 10, 2007
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gettin jacked
well i got my hysteer arms on and went to put my tie rod in and its just about riding on the leafs.. like an 1/8" away from the leaf pack... i have 4" marlin springs up front and a sky hysteer kit... i did shim the front cuz my drive line angle was so harsh... can sumone maybe help me out..???:mad:
 
Does it have to be really far away? The tie rod goes up and down WITH the suspension. So, as long as if at full droop, the curve of the spring isn't enough to make the spring hit the tie rod while turning in any direction, it shouldnt matter. Right? I would think the space between the tie rod and springs is a fairly constant dimension aside from the small amount from camber changes through steering left to right.

~T.J.
 
well like i said my tie rods are 1/16" above the leafs on the passenger side and 1/8" above on the drivers side...thats not enough, i was told they need to be at least 1"-1 1/2" above the leaf packs.. i have 6 leafs in the pack and shims... i was told to take the shims out, cuz for 1. im getting a doubler this weekend... so my pinion wont be that bad...2.my springs moved my axel 2 inches forward... any more pointers..?
 
Removing the shims should do it. If not sky makes a high steer arm thats higher than normal. about 1 1/2 inches as i member
 
assuming this a toyota housing.....

cut and turn your front end to help your pinion angle and get your castor proper. after your done with that make your own spring perches that have a lower profile to bring your leafpack closer to the axle. if you do it correctly you can do a u-bolt flip and can french the spring in to the pumkin side of the housing and gain better axle control and correct the perch height on the axles getting rid of the toyota lean

check your castor at static height if it already between 4 and 6 degs and pinion is ok than you may have to run a brand of arm that has more rise.

if it is a 44 or 60 than get spacers.
 
Pull the bottom leave from the spring pack. It will give you more clearance and bring the front down a little also helping your pinion angle.
 
well im getting a doubler friday.. and that will help to cuz it moves the flange back...right... so i will yank the shims out ...AND the botton leaf???
 
i wouldn't take a leaf out of your back... you springs will be gone before the summers over... mine were gone in two trips:haha: dual cases will help your drivline angle alot
 
What I would do...

Pull the shims
Install doubler (custom crossmember, long slip CV driveline up front, shortened rear, and so on required)
Check pinion angle with doubler, new drivelines, and no shims

Go from there.

I wouldnt modify an already "proven" spring pack - yet. I have a feeling that without the shims, the space between the tie rod and springs will open up a lot since they're rotating the front of the axle down to bring the pinion up, thus pushing the tie rod down towards the springs. Also, if you get a drop hanger built for the front, it will lower the front point on the springs, which will change the way the axle sits too.

Think of a rocking chair, one end of the rockers on the bottom is the spring hanger, another is the shackle. As you sit on the seat, the pinion is level and youre straight up and down. Now, with longer shackles like you have, that would be like rocking back on the chair. The pinion is pointing down now because that part of the spring is lower because of the shackles. Put a drop hanger up front, thats like rocking back forward again, its bringing you back closer to level. Get it?

Im not saying a drop hanger will solve your problems, but I think between not running one, and the shackles, thats a big part of your problem with the pinion so low.

Youre already committed to dumping money into it now with the doubler setup for the new crossmember, drivelines, floor mods for the new shifter, etc. So, in my opinion it would be plain dumb to not install a new front hanger too at this point.

~T.J.
 
Mine did the same thing. I wrestled and wrestled it. Finally I pulled the shimes. I also have rears up front and a CV. Sky makes billet arms that are shorter so that the drag link is higher above the arch of the leaf pack. They do help, but getting rid of the shims is best. Or go to a small degree shim.
 
well i ordered my spring hanger... and im pullin the shims out... now the ifs box mounting plate i got from sky... the top bolt just mounts above the frame??? there is no bracketry with the top bolt beside the plate and the bolt sleeve..is that all i need..?
 
well i ordered my spring hanger... and im pullin the shims out... now the ifs box mounting plate i got from sky... the top bolt just mounts above the frame??? there is no bracketry with the top bolt beside the plate and the bolt sleeve..is that all i need..?

There should be a chunk of tube to weld between the two plates such that the bolt will pass through it.
 
well guys i got it on..!!! hysteer is in working order... not as hard as i made it on my self...:looser: but non the less it on and is sweet... i just want to thank everyone again for all the help...:awesomework:

blakeski
 

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