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Bobby Tanner's new shocks?

If the pistons are anything like 2.0 fox C/Os, you can't just swap comp and reb stacks. The comp stack has a larger max diameter shim than the reb stack.
 
TacomaJD said:
There was actually a thread on Pirate that I read about a guy swapping the shim stacks, so it would be 90/40 instead of 40/90. You could do this by just swapping out the stacks already on the piston. One side, can't remember if it was compression or rebound, had an extra shim that had to stay (biggest shim on the "bottom" of the stack), but the rest of the shim stack would interchange between sides, virtually reversing the valving. His testimony was that it sounded crazy, but it made a huge (better) difference in his rig.

I've always thought it didn't make a lot of sense to valve air shocks like 40/90. My old Fox 2.0's were even 30/90. But then again, I'm just a web wheeler and don't have an education in shock engineering.

^^^ :dblthumb:

pachary said:
If the pistons are anything like 2.0 fox C/Os, you can't just swap comp and reb stacks. The comp stack has a larger max diameter shim than the reb stack.
 
Re: Re: Re: Bobby Tanner's new shocks?

Neal3000 said:
There used to be a few guys running air shocks at KOH in the early days, surely they tried everything in the book including shims to make them work?
Emulsions in general are very susceptible to heat and fade quickly. I wouldn't know what they did with them but I think heat was a major obstacle that they couldn't get past with air shocks. It wouldn't affect most trail crawlers or even short course bouncers.

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I think air shocks come with stiff rebound valving because most peoples link setup is terrible. Fox 2.5 air shocks come 40 compression(light)/90 rebound(stiff). Fast in/slow out. When going over bumps the shock shaft packs in the tube resulting in a harsh ride. The weight of my rig is a little too much for 2.0's and not enough for 2.5's. I have 16" 2.5's with 7"shaft showing. With 90 rebound the shock does not have time to extend in between bumps. I lightened the rebound to 70 front 60 rear. This let the shocks rebound(push out) faster making for a much better ride quality, This helped more the words can describe. . The 40 compression is about as light as you can go, 30 is the lightest shim stack offered. I then installed a flutter shack on the compression side to lessen the harshness of hitting washouts and ruts. The flutter stack lets the shock compress the first couple inches very fast and soft then the 40 stack takes over before you blow through the shock. Valve stacks are cheap and when setup correctly the best money you can spend on your rig.
 
Re:

Here's a thread with some interesting ideas I started a while back on pirate. Even so still not a lot of info on valving.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1671170

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Technician said:
Tires are really just an air spring that supports the entire vehicle. I'll not go into great detail about tire tuning here, but you should be aware that the tires, and the pressure in them, have a huge impact on vehicle ride and handling – regardless of the style of suspension used. This can be a complication in suspension tuning, but can also be used to advantage. For example, a stiff suspension set up for high-speed work can be made more comfortable and pliable in really rough terrain simply by adjusting the air pressure in the tires. The other reason I mention tires is because you often don't see them mentioned when people are swapping suspension advice and experience. That's a mistake. To properly understand and use the experience of another you need to be aware of, and account for, the type of tires they run and at what pressure.
this
 
I have a set of custom 500/500 springrate 3.0 c/o's I put on the passenger side for the front and rear that I put on when Marsha's big ass climbs up in them Corbeaus....She gets one ass cheek in the Corbeau and the other knocks my t case out of gear if you know what I mean.

:cougar:
 
TacomaJD said:
I have a set of custom 500/500 springrate 3.0 c/o's I put on the passenger side for the front and rear that I put on when Marsha's big ass climbs up in them Corbeaus....She gets one ass cheek in the Corbeau and the other knocks my t case out of gear if you know what I mean.

:cougar:
i just got a hardon
 
Re: Re: Re: Bobby Tanner's new shocks?

patooyee said:
Emulsions in general are very susceptible to heat and fade quickly. I wouldn't know what they did with them but I think heat was a major obstacle that they couldn't get past with air shocks. It wouldn't affect most trail crawlers or even short course bouncers.

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Yeah i understand why they stopped using them, the point i meant to make was that there had to have been some serious shim tuning going on there, and you know the cone dodgers have done it, they just keep it top secret
 
TacomaJD said:
I have a set of custom 500/500 springrate 3.0 c/o's I put on the passenger side for the front and rear that I put on when Marsha's big ass climbs up in them Corbeaus....She gets one ass cheek in the Corbeau and the other knocks my t case out of gear if you know what I mean.

:cougar:
pics of Marsha please :cougar:
 
cushmaneaglerider said:
I then installed a flutter shack on the compression side to lessen the harshness of hitting washouts and ruts. The flutter stack lets the shock compress the first couple inches very fast and soft then the 40 stack takes over before you blow through the shock. Valve stacks are cheap and when setup correctly the best money you can spend on your rig.

Where did you get your flutter stack. Can you elaborate on this a little bit more. Thanks
 
Isn't a flutter stack "basically" a lightweight big diameter shim with a small diameter shim, then a normal stack?


Seems a lot of this valving is considered voodoo that no one wants to share or talk about much.
 
I talked to the shock tuner at Downsouth Motorsports((619) 450-6128), where I bought my shocks. Gave him my sprung weight, unsprung weight, shock angles ect...and told him what I was looking for. Any where that sells and tunes shocks should be able to help you out.
 
cushmaneaglerider said:
I talked to the shock tuner at Downsouth Motorsports((619) 450-6128), where I bought my shocks. Gave him my sprung weight, unsprung weight, shock angles ect...and told him what I was looking for. Any where that sells and tunes shocks should be able to help you out.

x2...that guy knows his stuff and was very easy to work with. Prices are hard to beat also!
 
pachary said:
Isn't a flutter stack "basically" a lightweight big diameter shim with a small diameter shim, then a normal stack?

Yes. It can be any combination of shims. It can be two 40 stacks, two 90 stacks, a 40 and a 90 stack, or a custom combination that doesn't fall into any "stack" rating. Flutter just refers to a combination of two stacks. (Or more I guess is possible?)

From what I gather most shock "tuners" kind of leave conventional stack designations behind and get into doing their own custom thing. Most of them just have a large assortment of single shims to do with as they please. The shocks manufacturers sells shim packs that just come with compartments of each size shim. You can buy them from a few shims stacks worth of shims to hundreds. They range from $1-2 per shim unless you have a dealer account with them.
 
This (http://www.crawlpedia.com/shock_tuning.htm) should help explain a flutter stack vs a conventional valve stack.
After making some valve changes to my shocks I have found I am getting closer. I am running a conventional 30/50 in the the fronts and I am wanting to try moving to a flutter on the comp side. But unsure how to dial in the stack.
Also tuning with air bumps, would it be better to drop the N2 charge in the bumps while working on the main shocks?
 

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