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brakes

4doorchevy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2014
Messages
51
getting the brakes part of my build and have a question? Do I run a single line from master to center of front and split off and do the same for rear? or does it need two separate lines and a portioning value on front and single line for rear with spliter?
 
Two lines from master to prop valve...
One line from prop valve that t's somewhere to go to both front brakes... Usually two hoses to axle after the t...
One line from prop valve that t's somewhere to both rear brakes... Usually one hose to rear axle before the t...
 
Depends on what your building and what kind of brakes honestly. I have never ran proportion valves on anything I built but it's not driven on the road either and rarely comes out of 4wd.
 
Hell if it was a toyota with drum brakes and I wheeled it I just put a bolt in the mastercylinder and took the drums off the rear. Less **** to work on
 
its a jeep on tons disk all the way around. wont be driven on street except some back roads..
 
I may have misread your question... My reply above assumed that you were going to run a prop valve....

If you are not then same setup except skip the prop valve... Still two single lines that split at each axle
 
Re:

Also depends on what brake master cylinders you run. Wilwoods bias at the pedal assembly. Run residual valves for disc brakes to hold some pressure
 
I run 2 single cylinders one for front one fo rear. One inch bore. Stops like hell on 43s
 
Good info to know in the first post :****:

Front:
Single line from master to the frame, if linked, run flex line from frame to hard line or stainless flex down the upper link to flex line to Tee, to hard lines, to C's, to flex lines, to calipers.

Rear:
Single line from master to the frame, a 5lb residual valve, if linked run flex line from frame to hard line or stainless flex down the upper link to flex line to Tee, to hard lines to end of axle, flex lines to calipers.

Ive ran with and without proportional valves and although nice to fine tune front to rear bias, didnt notice much of a difference.

Last 2 rigs ran with out them.

Brakes stop on a dime and give you change back.
 
Re:

Holds fluid pressure so the pedal doesn't have to travel as far between pumps.
Kind of like when you double pump.
This is done mainly when going to disks but there are two available, one for drums one for disks
 
My buggy is on tons with disc all the way around. I currently have a wilwood single master 1" bore. My lines are split one to the front one to the rear. Just FYI if you dont get the push rod adjusted just right the brakes drag and eventually lock down. I thought my residual valves had something to do with it but it turned out to be the push rod adjustment.
 
ok guys went to mount hydro boost up and the reservoir on master cylinder hits the hood. ??? Anybody know of shorter reservoir that mounts to 2001 master cylinder? ???
 
4doorchevy said:
ok guys went to mount hydro boost up and the reservoir on master cylinder hits the hood. ??? Anybody know of shorter reservoir that mounts to 2001 master cylinder? ???
Cut hole in hood
 
BUG-E J said:
Cut hole in hood
[/quote

come on man really??


I cant be the only person that has ran into this
I have found a smaller master cylinder with shorter reservoir that will fit but then I think I'am defeating the purpose of hydro boost
 
Did the CUCV trucks use hydroboost being they were diesel? They should have an older metal reservoir if they did.
 
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