Building My Own Driveline - Opinions

84Toyota4x4 · Jun 15, 2008

I ran into a bit of a problem with my driveline after installing my new rear suspension - its a few inches too short.

I got to thinking about it, and I have a spare front driveline from a 1990 pickup. I was thinking about cutting the back (diff end) of my existing driveline off, and trying to weld the double cardan from the 90 onto it. This would give me the length I need, and of course a double cardan shaft. Its the late style, which from what I remember are the less flexable ones. This of course wouldnt be as big of a deal for the rear, so it should work well, right?

The only things I have come up with so far that could hinder it are tube size differences, and the flange on my t-case is the wrong pattern. For the flange, I figured I would turn it 90 degrees from the existing pattern and just drill new holes. Any problem with that?

Here are a couple pictures. I need 56.25" from flange to flange with the new suspension. I planned to cut the double cardan as well as mine at the welds that are aligned in the pic and swap them. The slip joint on the driveshaft would then be at the diff end of the shaft, with the double cardan at the t-case end.

~T.J.

Toyotanut · Jun 15, 2008

TB-F can combine drive lines like you are talkin. Also just redrill your flange for the new bolt patern.

Trailtoy1993 · Jun 15, 2008

Well first you are gonna need to change that rear pinion angle. And, I do think that the IFS CV only has about 15 degrees of misalignment so I would clamp it up and see how much you get out of it. I tried using that same joint one time and built the ds all up ony to discover that the joint wouldn't flex enough to even bolt in at ride height!!! I'll go look, I might have a toy ds that might work for you.

WHITE TRASH1 · Jun 15, 2008

I'm running a stock 94 cv in the rear of my truck and it has more than enough angle available to work great. Although my rear driveline is 58" long and i am only running about 3" lift plus a flat belly... :haha: If it doesnt have enough go HERE and follow the instrictions to gain clearance.

84Toyota4x4 · Jun 15, 2008

Well, I held the front shaft in place checking the bolt pattern, and it SEEMED like it would have enough movement. If not, Im sure I can mod it like that page shows to get more, Ive seen that page in the past and had it in mind. I'll talk to TB-F too, thanks.

~T.J.

84Toyota4x4 · Jun 17, 2008

Anyone else have any input before I decide to just start cutting these things up?

Oh, and who is a good source for a whole new driveline, should I fawk this up really bad?

~T.J.

TigTorch · Jun 17, 2008

I say go for it!

JThompson · Jun 17, 2008

TJ, I did a bit of research when doing my SAS, and enough people told me to not worry about the CV, just go single joints at either end. I know that I am talking about the front, which has a steeper angle, but still.... Easier to rebuild/fix, better angles.... I have DOUBLE the angle with the single joint d-shaft. I just used a rear shaft off a late 80's/early 90's style rig, and shortened it, while installing a longer slip. I then had TB-F shorten it a little further after running it a while, and he did good work for a very reasonable amount.
I, too, have the problem with the rear shaft now being a little short. The slip is pulled out a ways, and it is starting to wear in on itself, and cavitate while I drive. It is starting to get really annoying! Mark M. had several used shafts to sell when I was looking, and I may very well need to grab one before this weekend for the long trip east.

84Toyota4x4 · Jun 17, 2008

Well, I have a PM into TB-F, but Im waiting on a reply.

Im not looking for caddy smooth ride, I just dont want horrible vibrations driving out to the trails you know?

Im planning to run the CV shafts front and rear to keep the pinions up a little higher mainly. Ive also heard theyre a little more forgiving as far as misalignment and vibrations. Any truth to that? Would it be better to just run single joints on each end like I had in the first place?

~T.J.

EDIT: Now that Im thinking about it, the point is to run the CV when you have a short wheelbase (or distance between joints) and the u-joint angles are too steep, right? The CV allows you to rotate the pinion up to relieve that angle, and run the CV at the t-case end which will divide that angle between the two joints. With such a long wheel base like my truck, there may not be a real need for my truck to run the CV shaft, right? I could just have mine lengthened and call it a day...Right? So confused :booo:

JThompson · Jun 17, 2008

Sounds about right. And, if you go duals, your angles will be better, collectively!

*hint*

MIG'DHORSE · Jun 17, 2008

im gonna run duals with a std cab wheelbase... maybe +1.5", and probably throw a clearanced cv in the rear for road manners. flat belly and hopefully only 2.5-3.5" of lift.

lilyota · Jun 17, 2008

how long do you need it I have one thats 48 1/4 compressed and about 53 extended you can have. Also you can extend yours with 2" (i think could be 2 1/2) schedule 80 it slides in the stock shaft perfectly with one layer of electrical tape to help center it, I used this for my spare and have ran it and it worked great

84Toyota4x4 · Jun 18, 2008

I need 56" at ride height.

Im still not sure what the fawk Im gonna do. I got a quote from the guy who did my driveline last time, and his price has basically doubled. He wants $200 to retube the one I have now, he did it for $100 last time. Or, he wants $70 to shorten it and install the CV I have on it. Im not sure I NEED the CV, but I have it, and it seems to be cheaper to go that route. But, its more pieces to break and have problems with too...

~T.J.

84Toyota4x4 · Jun 23, 2008

Well, just as an update and a conclusion to this thread, I went ahead and did it myself. I cut the end off my old shaft in a vice using a sawzall following the weld edge and it came right out with some big channel locks. Did the same for the CV end, but it fought a little more, haha.

Got them all out, made sure the cut end was square, then persuaded the CV into the tube with a 5 LB sledge. Once it was in, I made sure I had it in far enough but not too far, and made sure it was square to the tube. All looked good so I welded it up and shot it with some new paint.

Got it installed (after swapping t-case flanges because there wasnt enough room to drill the new pattern), greased the joints and took it for a test drive. Went well up to 35 MPH with no vibes so far. No exhaust on it so I was trying not to piss off the neighbors too much. I still need to cut and rotate the rear axle as well, but it seems to work great so far. I ended up with 1.25" of spline compression travel, the rest is all extension.

Of course some pictures as well...

Now I just need to figure out the front. Who sells a long spline kit for the front axle I can install myself? Trail Gear has been out of their kits since the beginning of the month, and I would like something more than Marlins 8" kit.

~T.J.

dessertrunner735 · Jun 27, 2008

GO SIMPLE , USE 2" SQUARE TUBE ,AND MAKE THAT YOUR SLIP SHAFT WITH REGULAR CV JOINTS ,ITS TOUGH,ITS SIMPLE,ITS CHEAP,AND IT WORKS WELL! PLUS! YOU CAN BUILD THEM YOURSELF . UNLIMITED SLIDE ON THE DRIVELINE AND YOU CAN BEAT THE HELL OUT THEM,FRONT OR REAR.HOWD YA LIKE THEM APPLES!:awesomework: :stirpot: