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Cheerleader Jeep... 1 ton edition
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<blockquote data-quote="NotMatt" data-source="post: 1295368" data-attributes="member: 15947"><p>One corner of it sits on it's own weight now. Wish I had three other tires/wheels but I don't. Gotta keep movin, xraidedj is talking about planning a trip to the Rubicon next summer.</p><p></p><p>The axle width is perfect. Narrowing a 85-91 Ford D60 exactly 5.875 (5 and 7/8) inches lines the spring perches up perfectly with the YJ frame rail width. Adding 2" spacers on each side in order to run stock H1 double locks pushes the WMS back out 4", so I ended up with a WMS that is a hair under 2" less than full width, and matches up almost perfectly with the unmodified standard SRW 14 bolt rear. The 38 TSL just barely kisses the end of the bolt on the spring pack clamp and full lock. I will turn the bolts in those around so the head of the bolt is facing out, and should have no contact at all then.</p><p></p><p>I'm giddy.</p><p></p><p>I'm going to have exhaust clearance issues with the driveshaft, since the D60 pinion sits much further inboard than the low pinion D44 waggy I had in there before, but I should be able to remedy that by changing the B-pipe to a TJ one which routes the exhaust in a big U out of the manifold, and around the front of the oil pan and then back. This will also get the exhaust out of a vulnerable area crossing over right under the transmission stock YJ style. </p><p></p><p>I hope I don't have bellhousing/driveshaft clearance issues... having to run a 2 piece front DL with a pillowblock wouldn't be the end of the world, but I already have a stock Ford F-350 front driveline that has the oddball Ford joint on one end and a 1350 CV on the other, just need to have it retubed/lengthened.</p><p></p><p>Tip: make sure you get the right upper kingpin seal if you have a 85-91 Ford 60... it's taller than the chevy, dodge and early ford ones apparently... the kits I bought didn't have them, but the ones on my axle were in good shape so I'm just going to run those. Pirate4x4 kingpin rebuild article to the rescue!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NotMatt, post: 1295368, member: 15947"] One corner of it sits on it's own weight now. Wish I had three other tires/wheels but I don't. Gotta keep movin, xraidedj is talking about planning a trip to the Rubicon next summer. The axle width is perfect. Narrowing a 85-91 Ford D60 exactly 5.875 (5 and 7/8) inches lines the spring perches up perfectly with the YJ frame rail width. Adding 2" spacers on each side in order to run stock H1 double locks pushes the WMS back out 4", so I ended up with a WMS that is a hair under 2" less than full width, and matches up almost perfectly with the unmodified standard SRW 14 bolt rear. The 38 TSL just barely kisses the end of the bolt on the spring pack clamp and full lock. I will turn the bolts in those around so the head of the bolt is facing out, and should have no contact at all then. I'm giddy. I'm going to have exhaust clearance issues with the driveshaft, since the D60 pinion sits much further inboard than the low pinion D44 waggy I had in there before, but I should be able to remedy that by changing the B-pipe to a TJ one which routes the exhaust in a big U out of the manifold, and around the front of the oil pan and then back. This will also get the exhaust out of a vulnerable area crossing over right under the transmission stock YJ style. I hope I don't have bellhousing/driveshaft clearance issues... having to run a 2 piece front DL with a pillowblock wouldn't be the end of the world, but I already have a stock Ford F-350 front driveline that has the oddball Ford joint on one end and a 1350 CV on the other, just need to have it retubed/lengthened. Tip: make sure you get the right upper kingpin seal if you have a 85-91 Ford 60... it's taller than the chevy, dodge and early ford ones apparently... the kits I bought didn't have them, but the ones on my axle were in good shape so I'm just going to run those. Pirate4x4 kingpin rebuild article to the rescue! [/QUOTE]
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Cheerleader Jeep... 1 ton edition
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