Cheerleader Jeep... 1 ton edition

[NotMatt]

:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

Here's where the real **** starts...

King pin HP60 from a '90 Ford F-350, retubed to passenger drop, 5.13's and a detroit

Corp 14 bolt FF from a late 70's 'Burb, shaved, discs, 5.13's and welded

Dana 300, twin sticked, 4-1 gears

Some big tires

Hydro-assist or full hydro steering, not sure if I want to go all the way yet with full hydro.

RE 1444's up front, not sure on the rear springs yet... might stick with flipped XJ springs, might go waggy, not sure.

More cage work, rear section needs to be finished out, fuel cell to replace the stock tank that was relocated into the tub last "build".

Thanks to Cascade_Crawler for the motivation.

 

[NotMatt]

First question...

Width.

The 14 bolt is 67.5" WMS width right now with standard SRW hubs on it. If I put C&C or dually hubs on it, it will be 63.5" WMS width.

The 60 is 69.25" WMS width right now.

My main dillema is this: I would like to retain the stock spring width on the front of the YJ. If I kept the front axle driver's drop (I'm not, but this is just for measurement), I would need to narrow it exactly six inches, which would put the WMS width at 63.25, almost identical to the rear with C&C hubs.

Is this TOO narrow? I want to be able to run possibly up to a 42" tire, and I think if I narrow the front this much, I would end up with way reduced steering due to the tire hitting the springs or frame rail.

My other thought was to run the axles full width, outboard the front springs, and run H1 beadlocks without recentering... however even at that, my research shows I will need to run a 2" spacer on both sides up front to clear most high steer arms.

Thoughts? Experience? What did you do?

 

[xraidedj]

do like I did last night and give up!......

 

[NotMatt]

do like I did last night and give up!......

That's not acceptable.

 

[xraidedj]

That's not acceptable.

It was last night....i'll get back at er tonight, but It damn sure won't be driving tonight...one step forward 5 steps back...

 

[NotMatt]

It was last night....i'll get back at er tonight, but It damn sure won't be driving tonight...one step forward 5 steps back...

Details please...

 

[benw1]

My YJ is SOA on 63" wide 60s with 37" Krawlers. My steering is definately limited by the tires hitting the springs.

If you stay fullwidth and outboard the springs, your steering will still be limited by the springs.

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

Matt with CC hubs on the back the rear will be perfect, thats what mine is. My wide 42s barely rubbed on the springs at full lock with a 64.5" front end. I have around 4" of backspacing. 80" total is generally what people shoot for. With my krawlers im a hair under, with my iroks im a hair over.

 

[Nuzzy]

Awesome Matt. Please continue to post pics of your 2000 lb cheerleader, as she sounds like quite the lady

 

[NotMatt]

Awesome Matt. Please continue to post pics of your 2000 lb cheerleader, as she sounds like quite the lady

She MIGHT have been 2000lbs in high school before I got ahold of her, but she's been packing on the pounds ever since. :booo:

Anyway, I need to measure more. I want to keep the axle as wide as possible without moving the springs outboard. Since the cast-in spring perch on the driver's side will no longer be needed when retubing to passenger side, I need to figure out how far in board I can place a spring perch on the passenger side of the diff, as that will determine how far I can narrow the long side and still keep the axle centered.

 

[reson46]

HP passenger D60.... :drooling1:

Sounds like a very cool build. :awesomework:

Willy

 

[wheelinjp]

On my YJ I ran 62in wide d60s f/r and wished I had gone at least 64in. I ran 39.5 tsl's and they rubbed the frame with 2.5in b/s 15x10 wheels. I wouldnt outboard the springs either. Keep this in mind too, it is what I did. I retubed my 90 f350 front d60 centered with 14bolt spindles and got a front d60 standard rotation housing and used all my ford 60 outers on it. I ended up with the rev rotation center in the rear. Very good driveline angle and ground clearance. Go as wide as you are comfy with. I wished I had.

 

[BigBoysToys]

You need to fill up the front tire it is a little flat.

 

[NotMatt]

You need to fill up the front tire it is a little flat.

Haha, I did last night. Took the cover off and fired her up to move into the garage. I gotta get started on pulling the old axles and t-case out.

 

[NotMatt]

Alright, here's the plan:

Stock offset H1 double beadlocks.

14 bolt will stay with SRW hubs, which makes it a little under 67" wide (I measured).

The 60 will get narrowed 6" and re-tubed to passenger side drop. This will take it from 69.25" wms to 63.25" wms. I will run 2" spacers on either side, which will push the WMS back out to 67.25", and help protect the lockouts (i'm going to be too poor for 35 spline outers and drive slugs until later anyway), and should allow plenty of room for high steer arms, and I should have plenty of room for tires before they hit the leafs or frame.

Not sure what they calculates out to on outside tire width, but it shouldn't be too insanely wide.

 

[Lincolnlock]

Say hello to a two piece front drivline. You and cascade crawler can compare drivelines.

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

Say hello to a two piece front drivline. You and cascade crawler can compare drivelines.

if he narrows it equally he shouldnt have a problem

 

[NotMatt]

Say hello to a two piece front drivline. You and cascade crawler can compare drivelines.

I already figured on that... no biggie, his seems to work pretty good.

 

[Lincolnlock]

if he narrows it equally he shouldnt have a problem

You are correct. I guess it's getting retubed anyways. I would just leave it full width! :redneck:

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

You are correct. I guess it's getting retubed anyways. I would just leave it full width! :redneck:

then you would run some 150lb wheels that make your **** 100" wide! then you would school people. man, if only I was that cool.