Chevy/Ford hybrid???

[angelfly]

So I am in the garage working on a set of axles both 3/4ton 44's one chevy one ford. . .
The ford has auto hubs and they are shot but the chevy has warn hubs on it. . . I was wondering is it possible to just swap the chevy rotors on the ford knuckle? i slid it on and its nice and snug but thought i would ask????


If that doesn't work what about straight swapping the chevy outers and the ford outers????

 

[Outback]

IIRC this is an all or nothing swap...

If it is for you swap the complete outers.
You get a better break design.

 

[CrustyJeep]

You probly want the Chev knuckles. But what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

For us CJ guys, the Chev knuckles and spindles go together well with Ford hubs and rotors, to retain the stock 5x5.5" lug pattern.

 

[Outback]

You probly want the Chev knuckles. But what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

For us CJ guys, the Chev knuckles and spindles go together well with Ford hubs and rotors, to retain the stock 5x5.5" lug pattern.

I'm prolly wrong but I thought the 3/4T stuff was different...

 

[angelfly]

You probly want the Chev knuckles. But what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

For us CJ guys, the Chev knuckles and spindles go together well with Ford hubs and rotors, to retain the stock 5x5.5" lug pattern.

Well i am trying to accomplish 2 things one. . . my rig the ford has blown hubs totaly toast and the chevy has brand new WARN hubs on it. Also the calipers i have no are held in by a scetchy looking little peice and when pressure is applied they actually move causing a slight SMACK sound, so i would like to fix that also.

With the holidays coming up cash is super tight and i was gonna try to get my 4 wheel drive working for as cheap as possible for this coming weekend.

I think i will try jus the chevy rotors over the ford spindle first test drive it tomorrow and then go from there. . .

I just really need to get wheels on my truck and move it out of my buddies driveway(i hate living in a condo) the wife is getting alittle mad and it hasn't even been 24hrs(i can only imagine a few days)

Thanx for the help guys please more input is needed and welcome:awesomework:

 

[CrustyJeep]

I'm prolly wrong but I thought the 3/4T stuff was different...

Oh, duh, was thinking 1/2 ton...

 

[angelfly]

I'm prolly wrong but I thought the 3/4T stuff was different...

So far it isn't looking like it i have both chevy rotors on my hp 44 ford and about to be installing the hubs next I already checked to see in the ford shafts would go in the hub. . . they do:cheer:

I will post some pics of the donor and finish product when i'm done!

Right now the garage is warming up:fawkdancesmiley:

 

[CrustyJeep]

The Ford stub shafts are gonna be to short I think.

 

[angelfly]

OKay well one side works so far. . . that would be the drivers side that has full lock and unlock of the hub:awesomework:

BUt for the passenger side it looks to be so so so close but i found a nice dent in one of the hub ring thing so i am gonna get a new one today or tomorrow and see it that works. . .

The biggest reason why ford and chevy stubs are different is cause of the knuckle differ drastically not so much the rest of the set up

 

[pokey]

OKay well one side works so far. . . that would be the drivers side that has full lock and unlock of the hub:awesomework:

BUt for the passenger side it looks to be so so so close but i found a nice dent in one of the hub ring thing so i am gonna get a new one today or tomorrow and see it that works. . .

The biggest reason why ford and chevy stubs are different is cause of the knuckle differ drastically not so much the rest of the set up

better check you stub axle length. you might only be catching on a tiny amount of the axle splines with the hub and will promptly strip it when power is applied. If the steering will work I would change the knuckles and the outer axles.

 

[CrustyJeep]

better check you stub axle length. you might only be catching on a tiny amount of the axle splines with the hub and will promptly strip it when power is applied.

Surely he wouldn't claim it a success if the stub shaft c-clips aren't in place...

 

[pokey]

Surely he wouldn't claim it a success if the stub shaft c-clips aren't in place...

dont know, but I went out to the shop and compared a ford outer to a chevy one and the fords about 1/2" longer then again its 5 lug stuff. I have learned by experiance that just because things seem to fit together they dont always work that long due to minor machining issues:booo:

 

[CrustyJeep]

dont know, but I went out to the shop and compared a ford outer to a chevy one and the fords about 1/2" longer then again its 5 lug stuff.

Longer?? Heh, that means it won't keep the seal up tight against the back of the spindle. It will leak badly, and and spindle bearings won't ride right. It might even bind up. No good.

 

[angelfly]

check and rechecked. . . first i tried putting alittle piece of tacky putty very flat at the axle shaft and in one of the gears on the spindle for the hub. . . not either were touched when fully assembled. . . the c-clips barely fit like the out is pulled tight to the hub it fits actually alot better then my old ones did with all the shitty slop. . .


I really am just trying this as a test i am merely running my truck with a friend on his property where my truck is stored... We have some suspension mods to test and shock length to measure so if it breaks, oh well **** happens and i learned sumthing new so its not a loss either way:awesomework:

thanx for the help guys:beer:

Crusty it seals very nice against the hub very very nice:redneck: