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<blockquote data-quote="ChrisCo" data-source="post: 1559104" data-attributes="member: 18105"><p>There's not a whole lot of write-ups available on mounting the IFS power steering box on a pre-IFS pickup. As such, I'm chronicaling my adventures in the hopes that it may help someone else down the line.</p><p></p><p>In all of the research I'd done on this topic, the recurring theme I'd come across was:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">You want to mount the box as far forward (on the frame) as possible</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">You're gonna' have to chop the nose and body mount a little</li> </ul><p></p><p>To a point, there is a direct trade off between the amount you cut out of the body mount, and how far forward you can mount the box. The farther you move the box forward, the more you'll have to cut. I opted to try to minimizing the cut on the body mount.</p><p></p><p>I started by using a 3 1/8" hole saw to clearance the nose:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20081227/SteeringBoxClearance1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Afterwards, I did a bazillion or two "dry-fits" of the mounting plate and IFS steering box on the frame, to ensure everything jived. Ultimately, the clearancing ended up like this:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/BodyAndBodyMountTrimmedForBox.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>With the positioning all figured out, I marked the position of the two holes that go through the frame, and started drilling. The OD of the tubes that were supplied with the mounting kit (I've got the Trail Gear setup) is 3/4". Since the tubes are intended to butt up against the inside of the outside plate, the holes through the frame need to match. The holes in the inner plate are larger, and the tubes are intended to go through the inner plate.</p><p></p><p>All I had on hand in the way of hole saws was 1" or bigger... but I do have a 3/4" standard drill bit, so I started with a small (1/4") pilot hole, and stepped up from there.</p><p></p><p>I didn't think to get a pic of where the holes were drilled 'till after I'd already tacked the plates in place, and did a mock-up. After doing the mockup, I pulled the outer plate back off for a pic:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/HolesDrilled.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>...and, here's the mock-up (note that I did a bit of trimming on the inner fender, too, to clear the box):</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/EverythingMockedUp.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The frame on an '80 Toyota pickup flares out a bit at the very front, but the TG mounting plate wasn't bent to follow the flare:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/FrameFlaredOut.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I didn't want a gap in there, so I used a big C clamp to pull the inner plate in to match the contour of the frame. However, I was concerned that this bend in the inner plate may lead to the tubes being misaligned, so after doing the final mockup, I removed the steering box, then used the C clamp to hold the inner plate to the contour again. I then lined up the tubes, and used the bolts to hold them in place while tacked them to the inner plate. I pulled the inner plate off to weld the tubes in place:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/TubesTackWelded.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>After welding the tubes in place, I grabbed a 1/2" drill bit out of the drawer, and reamed out each of the tubes (I didn't want any problems when it came time to mount the box). Since my welder is only a 125v unit, I also beveled the plates a little.</p><p></p><p>Put it all back on the frame, hold in place with a C clamp, and tack the plates in place one last time</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/PlatesTackWeldedInPlace.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>...and start welding. After making a single pass of all of the welds, I took a dinner break, then came back to finish the job. With my wee li'l welder, I had to multi-pass the crap out of everything, and that took a while. Have I mentioned that I hate overhead welding yet? No major injuries from this instance, so I'll move on to the finished welds, and painted plates:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/PlatesWeldedAndPainted.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Now, I'm not real sure what happened, and I can only assume that the heat from the welding caused some distortion...but, after finishing the welding, I found that the mounting holes didn't <em>quite</em> line up anymore. They weren't off by much (between 1/16" and 1/8"), but it was enough to make me have to cut into the body mount a little more in order for the holes in the box to line up with the holes in the mounting plates... So, I busted out the saws all and a cutting disk, and got busy:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/BodyMountClearancedAgain.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>...and, after doing a little deburring, and hitting it with a bit of paint, here's the IFS steering box in it's final destination:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/PowerSteeringAllDone.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Woo-hoo! I can finally steer again! Now I've got to get the power steering pump mounted...and mount the shock hoops, and redo the electrical, and fix that hole in the floorboard, and...</p><p></p><p>-----</p><p></p><p>It seems like every time I plan to spend the weekend working on my rig, something comes up and derails the plan <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> This weekend was an exception (yippie!).</p><p></p><p>The plan was to finish getting the power steering pump mounted. I managed to get 99% there <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>When I got my steering box and pump, I got the mounting brackets and everything. They came off of a 22r rig, and I was <em>really</em> hoping they'd just bolt up directly... I'd read several articles that said that you could mount up a 22R's PS pump brackets on a 20r head...but, that it depended on which version of the head you've got. I have the version that doesn't work:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/StockPSMountProblem.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>...there's a distributor in the way <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> Oh, well. It just wouldn't be a project if it all bolted up, huh? :laughing6: </p><p></p><p>The good news is, there's a big ol' emtpy spot on the passenger side of the engine:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/LotsOfRoomOnThePassSide.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>There's plenty of room there to mount the York and the PS pump. So, before I go and start dinking with the mount itself, I wanted to tear into the York, and do a little preimptive work. First up, Yorks have a hole that runs from the case to near the crank shaft. If you don't plug it, it'll allow oil to weep out... You can plug this hole from inside of the case, or on the outside of the case. Due to not having a screw or bolt that'd work to plug it from the inside... I don't have any after pics ,but here's a pic of the hole itself:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/HoleToPlug.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>-----</p><p></p><p>I also decided to use my handy-dandy pipe taps, and modified the input and output flanges a little:</p><p></p><p>The first thing I did was to cut off the (charging?) nipples that were on the back of the flanges, tapped 'em to 1/8" NPT, and plugged them. Next up, I threaded the insides of the flanges to accept a 1/4" NPT (I think -- I can't remember anymore <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/YorkFlangesModified.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>With that taken care of, I shifted back to working on the mount. I'd inherited a large chunk of 4"x6"x3/16" box tubing a couple of years ago, and it just happens that it fits the outside of the York's case perfectly, so I cut it open, and proceeded to manhandle it into this shape:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/YorkMountStep1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I have the stock mounting plate handy, so placing the holes was fairly easy. After drilling the holes, and test fitting it all together, I realized that the taller side was going to be on the top of the mount...and, I'd have to pull the whole unit to check the oil. To avoid this, I opted to drill an access hole into the mount. First step, measure for location:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/MeasuringOulPlug.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Transfter the measurements to the mount:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/TransferOilPlugMeasurements.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Attack with 1 1/2" hole saw, and you get:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/OilPlugAccessPanel.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ChrisCo, post: 1559104, member: 18105"] There's not a whole lot of write-ups available on mounting the IFS power steering box on a pre-IFS pickup. As such, I'm chronicaling my adventures in the hopes that it may help someone else down the line. In all of the research I'd done on this topic, the recurring theme I'd come across was: [LIST] [*]You want to mount the box as far forward (on the frame) as possible [*]You're gonna' have to chop the nose and body mount a little [/LIST] To a point, there is a direct trade off between the amount you cut out of the body mount, and how far forward you can mount the box. The farther you move the box forward, the more you'll have to cut. I opted to try to minimizing the cut on the body mount. I started by using a 3 1/8" hole saw to clearance the nose: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20081227/SteeringBoxClearance1.jpg[/img] Afterwards, I did a bazillion or two "dry-fits" of the mounting plate and IFS steering box on the frame, to ensure everything jived. Ultimately, the clearancing ended up like this: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/BodyAndBodyMountTrimmedForBox.jpg[/img] With the positioning all figured out, I marked the position of the two holes that go through the frame, and started drilling. The OD of the tubes that were supplied with the mounting kit (I've got the Trail Gear setup) is 3/4". Since the tubes are intended to butt up against the inside of the outside plate, the holes through the frame need to match. The holes in the inner plate are larger, and the tubes are intended to go through the inner plate. All I had on hand in the way of hole saws was 1" or bigger... but I do have a 3/4" standard drill bit, so I started with a small (1/4") pilot hole, and stepped up from there. I didn't think to get a pic of where the holes were drilled 'till after I'd already tacked the plates in place, and did a mock-up. After doing the mockup, I pulled the outer plate back off for a pic: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/HolesDrilled.jpg[/img] ...and, here's the mock-up (note that I did a bit of trimming on the inner fender, too, to clear the box): [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/EverythingMockedUp.jpg[/img] The frame on an '80 Toyota pickup flares out a bit at the very front, but the TG mounting plate wasn't bent to follow the flare: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/FrameFlaredOut.jpg[/img] I didn't want a gap in there, so I used a big C clamp to pull the inner plate in to match the contour of the frame. However, I was concerned that this bend in the inner plate may lead to the tubes being misaligned, so after doing the final mockup, I removed the steering box, then used the C clamp to hold the inner plate to the contour again. I then lined up the tubes, and used the bolts to hold them in place while tacked them to the inner plate. I pulled the inner plate off to weld the tubes in place: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/TubesTackWelded.jpg[/img] After welding the tubes in place, I grabbed a 1/2" drill bit out of the drawer, and reamed out each of the tubes (I didn't want any problems when it came time to mount the box). Since my welder is only a 125v unit, I also beveled the plates a little. Put it all back on the frame, hold in place with a C clamp, and tack the plates in place one last time [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/PlatesTackWeldedInPlace.jpg[/img] ...and start welding. After making a single pass of all of the welds, I took a dinner break, then came back to finish the job. With my wee li'l welder, I had to multi-pass the crap out of everything, and that took a while. Have I mentioned that I hate overhead welding yet? No major injuries from this instance, so I'll move on to the finished welds, and painted plates: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/PlatesWeldedAndPainted.jpg[/img] Now, I'm not real sure what happened, and I can only assume that the heat from the welding caused some distortion...but, after finishing the welding, I found that the mounting holes didn't [I]quite[/I] line up anymore. They weren't off by much (between 1/16" and 1/8"), but it was enough to make me have to cut into the body mount a little more in order for the holes in the box to line up with the holes in the mounting plates... So, I busted out the saws all and a cutting disk, and got busy: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/BodyMountClearancedAgain.jpg[/img] ...and, after doing a little deburring, and hitting it with a bit of paint, here's the IFS steering box in it's final destination: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090104/PowerSteeringAllDone.jpg[/img] Woo-hoo! I can finally steer again! Now I've got to get the power steering pump mounted...and mount the shock hoops, and redo the electrical, and fix that hole in the floorboard, and... ----- It seems like every time I plan to spend the weekend working on my rig, something comes up and derails the plan :( This weekend was an exception (yippie!). The plan was to finish getting the power steering pump mounted. I managed to get 99% there :) When I got my steering box and pump, I got the mounting brackets and everything. They came off of a 22r rig, and I was [I]really[/I] hoping they'd just bolt up directly... I'd read several articles that said that you could mount up a 22R's PS pump brackets on a 20r head...but, that it depended on which version of the head you've got. I have the version that doesn't work: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/StockPSMountProblem.jpg[/IMG] ...there's a distributor in the way :( Oh, well. It just wouldn't be a project if it all bolted up, huh? :laughing6: The good news is, there's a big ol' emtpy spot on the passenger side of the engine: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/LotsOfRoomOnThePassSide.jpg[/IMG] There's plenty of room there to mount the York and the PS pump. So, before I go and start dinking with the mount itself, I wanted to tear into the York, and do a little preimptive work. First up, Yorks have a hole that runs from the case to near the crank shaft. If you don't plug it, it'll allow oil to weep out... You can plug this hole from inside of the case, or on the outside of the case. Due to not having a screw or bolt that'd work to plug it from the inside... I don't have any after pics ,but here's a pic of the hole itself: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/HoleToPlug.jpg[/IMG] ----- I also decided to use my handy-dandy pipe taps, and modified the input and output flanges a little: The first thing I did was to cut off the (charging?) nipples that were on the back of the flanges, tapped 'em to 1/8" NPT, and plugged them. Next up, I threaded the insides of the flanges to accept a 1/4" NPT (I think -- I can't remember anymore :P) [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/YorkFlangesModified.jpg[/IMG] With that taken care of, I shifted back to working on the mount. I'd inherited a large chunk of 4"x6"x3/16" box tubing a couple of years ago, and it just happens that it fits the outside of the York's case perfectly, so I cut it open, and proceeded to manhandle it into this shape: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/YorkMountStep1.jpg[/IMG] I have the stock mounting plate handy, so placing the holes was fairly easy. After drilling the holes, and test fitting it all together, I realized that the taller side was going to be on the top of the mount...and, I'd have to pull the whole unit to check the oil. To avoid this, I opted to drill an access hole into the mount. First step, measure for location: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/MeasuringOulPlug.jpg[/IMG] Transfter the measurements to the mount: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/TransferOilPlugMeasurements.jpg[/IMG] Attack with 1 1/2" hole saw, and you get: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20090315/OilPlugAccessPanel.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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