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<blockquote data-quote="ChrisCo" data-source="post: 1559107" data-attributes="member: 18105"><p>I've been off for a week of vacation for the past week. I'd only gotten a couple of days in to working on the rig <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> A while back, I'd received my new wiring harness from Summit Racing. The harness itself was OK, but it seems that the fuse box was intended to be mounted in the glove compartment... The way the wires were originally mounted, they would have been sticking into the driver's left knee if they weren't re-routed.</p><p></p><p>Amazingly, the wiring wasn't too horribly bad to begin with...just lots of redneck engineering and splices...but, I ripped it all out anyhoo. The new harness is rough-routed, and I'm tracking down all of the connections</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Well, for the first time since the end of July (or very beginning of August -- I don't recall exactly), the rig fired up this afternoon <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /> </p><p></p><p>I was having problems getting anything from the coil for a few days, so (after a bunch of troubleshooting and staring at schematics) I opted to do the <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179253" target="_blank">igniter bypass ala Pirate</a>. After doing the swap, and verifying that spark was being delivered through the dizzy, I gave 'er a small drink of starter fluid, and she started right up on the first crank. Now I need to get an exhaust put on there, 'cuz I the sound of a 20r running straight off the header just isn't cool <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" /></p><p></p><p>Most of the wiring is roughed in now. I'm hoping to get the in-cab wiring done this weekend (just need to get the tach straightened out, and install the OBA switch and CB). I'll be picking up some convoluted tubing sometime this week, and will post up pics when done. </p><p></p><p>I've been keeping tabs of what connects to what, and will be posting those up, too, when I'm done (just in case anyone else decides to swap out their harness for a domestic-oriented wiring harness).</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>For the first time in a long time, I was able to get out to the shop today, and put in a full day's work without being interrupted (for the most part, anyhow). I've been done with most of the rewire job for a couple of weeks, and just putting the final touches on it. Today was spent getting the dash reinstalled, and taking care of the loose ends. </p><p></p><p>While looking for loose ends in the engine compartment, I came across this plug on the back of the carb:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091107/ThingOnBackOfCarbCircled.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>It'd been disconnected since I'd bought the rig. I had no clue what it was, but it looked to me like it was supposed to have power supplied to it...so (out of curiosity) I plugged in the battery charger, and gave it a bit of juice. The result was a faint "click". Hmmm.... ok. Now I'm intrigued.</p><p></p><p>I've had a problem with this rig not wanting to idle any less than 1000-1200 rpm without dieing. As posted in this thread, I previously rebuilt the carb (hoping to resolve the problem). It didn't. In fact, it made zero noticable difference at all, and the A/F adjustment screw still did absolutely nothing, and I could actually <em>remove</em> the screw all together with no change in the way the engine ran. It smelt like it was running rich, but I couldn't adjust it at all. I'd come to the conclusion that this must be related to the desmogging, and I'd honestly given up on it ever running any better.</p><p></p><p>So, now there's something going "click" in the carb when this thing is given some power, and it'd never been connected before. Let's start the beast up, and see what happens when I give this thing some power. Presto! The revs picked up, and it smoothed out. It immediately smelt better, too. OK, this thing is getting permanently wired it! Bust out the solder gun and wire it up.</p><p></p><p>To my surprise, after getting this thing plugged in, my mixture screw is working, and I was able to get the idle down to steady and smooth 750 rpm! It sounds and smells a bunch better, to! WOO-HOO!</p><p></p><p>Here's how I've setup the GM ignition module:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091107/GMIgnitionModuleInstalled.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>...and the new fuse box:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091107/FuseBoxInstalled.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I've still got to get the CB, rock lights, radio (not sure if I'll even put one in there yet), and air compressor switch wired up. I've got everything on the bed ready to hook up, and connected through a single connector (so it can be disconnected). I've got a few extra circuits left over that I'm sure I'll find some use for eventually.</p><p></p><p>I'm just glad to be this far along with the wiring, and ready to get back to less electrical-related tasks...like, fixing the brakes, mounting the shocks, building the flatbed...adding gear oil to the axles :lol:</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>That was my first thought, too...and, I almost ran it through a switch because of that. It ran so well plugged in that I just hardwired it...but, thanks for the reminder, 'cuz I've been meaning to look in the books I've got, to see if I can figure out what it is...</p><p></p><p></p><p>Chilton's shows it as a "Solenoid valve". Haynes doesn't have a diagram in it <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>Time to go see what I can dig up about this valve...</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>OK, from what I'm gathering from the interweb, it looks like that's the "Idle Stop Solenoid", and is supposed to be connected to a 12v switched power source.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Got the dash put back together today. Last weekend, I finished 1 of 2 pieces of dash panel. Yesterday, I finished the second, and painted 'em up. CB and OBA switch installed, and the 4 extra circuits cleaned up and tucked up out of the way.</p><p></p><p>New dash panels:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091127/NewDashPanel1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091127/NewDashPanel2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The blue paint on the heat/fan controls is RC car paint. It didn't stick to the plastic all that well, so I'll have to pick up an enamel paint pen when I head into town tomorrow.</p><p></p><p>Now I just need to wrap all of the wiring under the hood, and I'll be done with the wiring for good... at least, all of the wiring on the front of the rig. The back end is still untouched, as there's nothing to connect at the moment.</p><p></p><p>btw, the pic only makes the CB look crooked in the dash. It isn't really.</p><p></p><p>...and, the reason for the new dash panel is that the P/O trashed it to stuff a full sized radio in there.</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Spent the afternoon fabbing up some new spring plates. The material I'd used for the front spring plates was too thin, and bent when I torqued down the u-bolts. The new ones are 3/8" thick, cut out of some big ol' T bar a neighbor gave me a few months ago. They're spring plates... They're not worthy of pics <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Short day in the shop today. I put together a new coil -> dizzy wire, and rerouted it such that it's no longer dangling over the steering shaft. I'll probably do a 1-wire alt setup at some point, to avoid having <em>any</em> wires hanging over the steering shaft at all.</p><p></p><p>I also managed to get the rear bump stops installed this afternoon. Nothing special -- they're just bolted to the top of the spring plates.</p><p></p><p>I finally remembered to copy over my wiring notes copied to my laptop before shutting down the shop PC today. I've uploaded it to my site:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/80Toyota/1980%20Toyota%20Pickup%20Wiring%20Notes.ods" target="_blank">http://chrisco.texas-222.com/80Toyota/1980 Toyota Pickup Wiring Notes.ods</a></p><p></p><p>You can open this with OpenOffice (native) or MS Excel. There are four worksheets in there:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Instrument Cluster - This worksheet contains the color, function, and polarity of each of the wires connected via the two plugs in the back of the cluster. The Polarity column notes how it work (either by having power supplied to it, or by grounding it).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Steering Column Main - This worksheet contains a diagram of the big plug coming off of the steering column, as well as the colors and functions of each of the wires connected to it. This sheet also contains notes on what it connects to on the cheapo-Summit wiring harness.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Steering Column Igniton - This worksheet contains a diagram of the small plug coming off of the steering column (which is for the ignition switch only). It doesn't note which wire connects where, as it's fairly obvious which wire goes where when you're connecting the new harness.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Alternator Connections - This worksheet is basically just notes on how I got the charge light to work with the new wiring harness.<br /> </li> </ul><p></p><p>Hopefully this will be of use to someone else other than myself. Feel free to ask if you have any questions about anything I've got in there...</p><p></p><p>EDIT:</p><p></p><p>I can't remember if I'd already noted which harness I'm using, and I'm too lazy to go back and look, so I'll note it here <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>I installed Summit Racing's 18 Circuit Universal Wiring Harness (<a href="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890020/" target="_blank">Summit part # SUM-890020</a>)</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Dinked around with the rig a little this weekend. Nothing major -- just a bunch of little things, like (finally) refilling the axles with oil, reconnected the rear brake lines, decluttering the engine bay a little more, routing the positive cable, etc, etc, etc...</p><p></p><p>Friday evening, I got out to the shop reconnected the rear brake line, and filled the axles with oil. I found that the BPV is shot, and (if allowed to dangle loose) will squirt brake fluid when you step on the brake pedal <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> After filling the axles, I figured out crawl under and check the level in the t-case. I couldn't feel any through the filler hole, so I topped it off. This morning, I went out to the shop to find a puddle under the rig, and this on the front output flange of the t-case:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091213/LeakyFrontTCaseOutput.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I guess I need to start looking into a replacement seal. Not a big deal, but it's irritating that I just dumped a bunch of fresh oil into the case just to have to drain it again in short order <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite4" alt=":mad:" title="Mad :mad:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":mad:" /></p><p></p><p>Since I was already rolling around on the floor, I decided to go ahead and route the cable from the power cable from the battery to the starter. Nothing fancy, or even worthy of posting a picture of... I just routed it under the cab, somewhat long the frame, and over to the driver's side via the cross member that runs directly behind the cab. I did sleeve the cable with 1/2" heater hose, though, to protect it from abrasion.</p><p></p><p>I also spent some time this afternoon de-cluttering the engine bay a bit more. Specifically, I ripped out as many of the vacuum lines as I could -- leaving only the line to the dizzy and the EGR (not sure that it's actually doing any good at this point anyway). Here's a pic from shortly after I got the rig:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chriscole.members.winisp.net/images/80Toyota/80Toyota_EngineBayBeforeCleanup2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>...and, here it is as of right now, after rewiring, and massive amounts of cleanup:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091213/CleanerEngineBay.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>It was too early to quit for the day, but I really didn't want to get started on something that was going to be a multi-day thing...so, I busted out the Motive pressure bleeder, and bled the brakes (it's amazing how crappy 28 y/o brake fluid looks :lol: ).</p><p></p><p>I also decided to look into a suggestion Carol had made a few weeks ago, after seeing where I'd used some ultra-flat black paint to cover some bare spots on the back of the cab:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091213/BlackAndBlue.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I'm not sure I actually like the black. I've already got a ton of it going on elsewhere, and I'm really not a fan of the black-out motif <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/dunno.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":dunno:" title="Dunno :dunno:" data-shortname=":dunno:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ChrisCo, post: 1559107, member: 18105"] I've been off for a week of vacation for the past week. I'd only gotten a couple of days in to working on the rig :( A while back, I'd received my new wiring harness from Summit Racing. The harness itself was OK, but it seems that the fuse box was intended to be mounted in the glove compartment... The way the wires were originally mounted, they would have been sticking into the driver's left knee if they weren't re-routed. Amazingly, the wiring wasn't too horribly bad to begin with...just lots of redneck engineering and splices...but, I ripped it all out anyhoo. The new harness is rough-routed, and I'm tracking down all of the connections ---- Well, for the first time since the end of July (or very beginning of August -- I don't recall exactly), the rig fired up this afternoon :D I was having problems getting anything from the coil for a few days, so (after a bunch of troubleshooting and staring at schematics) I opted to do the [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179253"]igniter bypass ala Pirate[/URL]. After doing the swap, and verifying that spark was being delivered through the dizzy, I gave 'er a small drink of starter fluid, and she started right up on the first crank. Now I need to get an exhaust put on there, 'cuz I the sound of a 20r running straight off the header just isn't cool :p Most of the wiring is roughed in now. I'm hoping to get the in-cab wiring done this weekend (just need to get the tach straightened out, and install the OBA switch and CB). I'll be picking up some convoluted tubing sometime this week, and will post up pics when done. I've been keeping tabs of what connects to what, and will be posting those up, too, when I'm done (just in case anyone else decides to swap out their harness for a domestic-oriented wiring harness). ---- For the first time in a long time, I was able to get out to the shop today, and put in a full day's work without being interrupted (for the most part, anyhow). I've been done with most of the rewire job for a couple of weeks, and just putting the final touches on it. Today was spent getting the dash reinstalled, and taking care of the loose ends. While looking for loose ends in the engine compartment, I came across this plug on the back of the carb: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091107/ThingOnBackOfCarbCircled.jpg[/img] It'd been disconnected since I'd bought the rig. I had no clue what it was, but it looked to me like it was supposed to have power supplied to it...so (out of curiosity) I plugged in the battery charger, and gave it a bit of juice. The result was a faint "click". Hmmm.... ok. Now I'm intrigued. I've had a problem with this rig not wanting to idle any less than 1000-1200 rpm without dieing. As posted in this thread, I previously rebuilt the carb (hoping to resolve the problem). It didn't. In fact, it made zero noticable difference at all, and the A/F adjustment screw still did absolutely nothing, and I could actually [I]remove[/I] the screw all together with no change in the way the engine ran. It smelt like it was running rich, but I couldn't adjust it at all. I'd come to the conclusion that this must be related to the desmogging, and I'd honestly given up on it ever running any better. So, now there's something going "click" in the carb when this thing is given some power, and it'd never been connected before. Let's start the beast up, and see what happens when I give this thing some power. Presto! The revs picked up, and it smoothed out. It immediately smelt better, too. OK, this thing is getting permanently wired it! Bust out the solder gun and wire it up. To my surprise, after getting this thing plugged in, my mixture screw is working, and I was able to get the idle down to steady and smooth 750 rpm! It sounds and smells a bunch better, to! WOO-HOO! Here's how I've setup the GM ignition module: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091107/GMIgnitionModuleInstalled.jpg[/img] ...and the new fuse box: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091107/FuseBoxInstalled.jpg[/img] I've still got to get the CB, rock lights, radio (not sure if I'll even put one in there yet), and air compressor switch wired up. I've got everything on the bed ready to hook up, and connected through a single connector (so it can be disconnected). I've got a few extra circuits left over that I'm sure I'll find some use for eventually. I'm just glad to be this far along with the wiring, and ready to get back to less electrical-related tasks...like, fixing the brakes, mounting the shocks, building the flatbed...adding gear oil to the axles :lol: ---- That was my first thought, too...and, I almost ran it through a switch because of that. It ran so well plugged in that I just hardwired it...but, thanks for the reminder, 'cuz I've been meaning to look in the books I've got, to see if I can figure out what it is... Chilton's shows it as a "Solenoid valve". Haynes doesn't have a diagram in it :( Time to go see what I can dig up about this valve... ---- OK, from what I'm gathering from the interweb, it looks like that's the "Idle Stop Solenoid", and is supposed to be connected to a 12v switched power source. ---- Got the dash put back together today. Last weekend, I finished 1 of 2 pieces of dash panel. Yesterday, I finished the second, and painted 'em up. CB and OBA switch installed, and the 4 extra circuits cleaned up and tucked up out of the way. New dash panels: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091127/NewDashPanel1.jpg[/img] [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091127/NewDashPanel2.jpg[/img] The blue paint on the heat/fan controls is RC car paint. It didn't stick to the plastic all that well, so I'll have to pick up an enamel paint pen when I head into town tomorrow. Now I just need to wrap all of the wiring under the hood, and I'll be done with the wiring for good... at least, all of the wiring on the front of the rig. The back end is still untouched, as there's nothing to connect at the moment. btw, the pic only makes the CB look crooked in the dash. It isn't really. ...and, the reason for the new dash panel is that the P/O trashed it to stuff a full sized radio in there. ---- Spent the afternoon fabbing up some new spring plates. The material I'd used for the front spring plates was too thin, and bent when I torqued down the u-bolts. The new ones are 3/8" thick, cut out of some big ol' T bar a neighbor gave me a few months ago. They're spring plates... They're not worthy of pics :D ---- Short day in the shop today. I put together a new coil -> dizzy wire, and rerouted it such that it's no longer dangling over the steering shaft. I'll probably do a 1-wire alt setup at some point, to avoid having [I]any[/I] wires hanging over the steering shaft at all. I also managed to get the rear bump stops installed this afternoon. Nothing special -- they're just bolted to the top of the spring plates. I finally remembered to copy over my wiring notes copied to my laptop before shutting down the shop PC today. I've uploaded it to my site: [url]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/80Toyota/1980%20Toyota%20Pickup%20Wiring%20Notes.ods[/url] You can open this with OpenOffice (native) or MS Excel. There are four worksheets in there: [LIST] [*]Instrument Cluster - This worksheet contains the color, function, and polarity of each of the wires connected via the two plugs in the back of the cluster. The Polarity column notes how it work (either by having power supplied to it, or by grounding it). [*]Steering Column Main - This worksheet contains a diagram of the big plug coming off of the steering column, as well as the colors and functions of each of the wires connected to it. This sheet also contains notes on what it connects to on the cheapo-Summit wiring harness. [*]Steering Column Igniton - This worksheet contains a diagram of the small plug coming off of the steering column (which is for the ignition switch only). It doesn't note which wire connects where, as it's fairly obvious which wire goes where when you're connecting the new harness. [*]Alternator Connections - This worksheet is basically just notes on how I got the charge light to work with the new wiring harness. [/LIST] Hopefully this will be of use to someone else other than myself. Feel free to ask if you have any questions about anything I've got in there... EDIT: I can't remember if I'd already noted which harness I'm using, and I'm too lazy to go back and look, so I'll note it here :D I installed Summit Racing's 18 Circuit Universal Wiring Harness ([URL="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890020/"]Summit part # SUM-890020[/URL]) ---- Dinked around with the rig a little this weekend. Nothing major -- just a bunch of little things, like (finally) refilling the axles with oil, reconnected the rear brake lines, decluttering the engine bay a little more, routing the positive cable, etc, etc, etc... Friday evening, I got out to the shop reconnected the rear brake line, and filled the axles with oil. I found that the BPV is shot, and (if allowed to dangle loose) will squirt brake fluid when you step on the brake pedal :( After filling the axles, I figured out crawl under and check the level in the t-case. I couldn't feel any through the filler hole, so I topped it off. This morning, I went out to the shop to find a puddle under the rig, and this on the front output flange of the t-case: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091213/LeakyFrontTCaseOutput.jpg[/IMG] I guess I need to start looking into a replacement seal. Not a big deal, but it's irritating that I just dumped a bunch of fresh oil into the case just to have to drain it again in short order :mad: Since I was already rolling around on the floor, I decided to go ahead and route the cable from the power cable from the battery to the starter. Nothing fancy, or even worthy of posting a picture of... I just routed it under the cab, somewhat long the frame, and over to the driver's side via the cross member that runs directly behind the cab. I did sleeve the cable with 1/2" heater hose, though, to protect it from abrasion. I also spent some time this afternoon de-cluttering the engine bay a bit more. Specifically, I ripped out as many of the vacuum lines as I could -- leaving only the line to the dizzy and the EGR (not sure that it's actually doing any good at this point anyway). Here's a pic from shortly after I got the rig: [IMG]http://chriscole.members.winisp.net/images/80Toyota/80Toyota_EngineBayBeforeCleanup2.jpg[/img] ...and, here it is as of right now, after rewiring, and massive amounts of cleanup: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091213/CleanerEngineBay.jpg[/IMG] It was too early to quit for the day, but I really didn't want to get started on something that was going to be a multi-day thing...so, I busted out the Motive pressure bleeder, and bled the brakes (it's amazing how crappy 28 y/o brake fluid looks :lol: ). I also decided to look into a suggestion Carol had made a few weeks ago, after seeing where I'd used some ultra-flat black paint to cover some bare spots on the back of the cab: [IMG]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20091213/BlackAndBlue.jpg[/IMG] I'm not sure I actually like the black. I've already got a ton of it going on elsewhere, and I'm really not a fan of the black-out motif :dunno: [/QUOTE]
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