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<blockquote data-quote="ChrisCo" data-source="post: 1559115" data-attributes="member: 18105"><p>Welp, there went this year's "bonus". Just ordered up a doubler kit and a couple of little odds and ends from Marlin, and a clutch kit from RockAuto. The transmission/t-case combo has now cost me more than half of the rig's original purchase price lol</p><p></p><p>Last thing I need now is a clutch fork. Going to stop by Toyota of Kirkland tomorrow morning to see how much KY I need to supply... Seems very few clutch forks are floating around on the open market <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Well, poo. It looks like the t-case I picked up yesterday doesn't match up to the trans. It seems the shift rods are too long. Both are 21 spline, and both were from '86 4-Runners...but one was EFI and the other was carb'd. It seems the shift rods on the t-case is different lengths between the two <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>Guess I'll have to wait for Marlin or TG to get their top-shift conversion kits back into stock <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p></p><p> </p><p>...or not. It looks like it's fairly simple to convert the longer shift rail to a short one, so (since I've pretty much maxed out my Cow-mod budget for the year) I'll have to give it a shot.</p><p></p><p>For reference:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/793167-arghh-how-do-i-get-around.html" target="_blank">ARGHH how do I get around this? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum</a></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Newest power mod. Good for at least 10000 ft lb of torque <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20130926/100ftlb.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Clocked crawlbox setup from Marlin, and a new Aisin clutch slave from RockAuto...</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20130926/CrawlerKit.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Unfortunately, my whole team is supposed to work this weekend in order to meet an already slipped schedule, so I probably won't get anything done on it till next weekend <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Made a quick trip over to ToK to order up a new clutch fork this morning, and they already had a couple in stock :good:</p><p></p><p>New clutch is supposed to be delivered today. I'm working this weekend, so even if it *does* show up, I won't be able to do anything with it.</p><p></p><p>Oh, and All-Pro can go :swing: themselves. The t-case brake I ordered from them on 9/17 still hasn't showed up. I got a tracking # the day after I'd ordered, but it kept showing that UPS hadn't received the package. It wasn't till I asked their sales people where my parts were that I was told it didn't go out till the 25th. Yeah, I probably sound a bit petty complaining about having to wait a week before parts are sent, but if they don't have the parts sitting on the shelf ready to be shipped, they need to communicate that information instead of just leaving the customer hanging.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Well, FedEx delivered the clutch yesterday...sometime after 9pm :crazy:</p><p></p><p>So, I've still got a problem with the shift rails on the new t-case being too long. I've been hunting all over the interweb for the correct part numbers, but my MSFT-goo seems to be killing my GOOG-foo :biggrin: I can't find chit about it.</p><p></p><p>My first thought was to convert it to a top-shift t-case, but that'd leave a hole to be filled in the transmission. I also don't happen to have a spare top-shift shifter available. I'm considering lopping off a bit off of the hi/lo shift rail and welding back together. Anyone ever tried doing that before?</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Welp. Got the new t-case torn down this evening and (almost) ready to get the MC07 installed. The gears look seem to be in good shape.</p><p></p><p>I need to either modify or replace the shift rail before I go any farther. Since I have a spare shift rail (the 2/4wd shift rail is not used), I think I'll try cutting and welding the spare to see how well it works out before I screw up the shift rail that I actually need.</p><p></p><p>No pics. My shop camera refused to cooperate, and my phone didn't seem to take the pictures that I thought it did <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite4" alt=":mad:" title="Mad :mad:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":mad:" /></p><p></p><p>Found this a few days ago... Meant to post up a link to it:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/" target="_blank">1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual</a></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>T-case brake finally showed up today... Lets see how long it takes to get installed. I'm hoping the 10* clock on the e-case won't cause any problem with getting it mounted.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>I got to spend a few hours out in the garage this evening. Got the adapter mounted to the reduction box, and did a few little odds and ends to get ready to remove the transmission/t-case from the Cow. Hoping to get them pulled out of the Cow tomorrow, and get the shift rail shortened up so I can get it all put together this weekend.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Cut ~3/4" out of the hi/lo shift rail and got it welded back together without a problem. Got the crawl box bolted to the new transmission. Waiting till tomorrow to pull the old trans out, and mount up the old t-case to the new transmission and crawl box.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Well, crap. None of my jacks can reach the bottom of the transmission in the Cow. Guess I'll have to pick up a transmission jack next week...</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p> Deflated the tires AND ended up building a box to take up the slack between the top of the (motorcycle) jack and the transmission. Had to air back up to get it out from under the rig, tho :redneck:</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Crawler all put together and ready go in to the rig...after I pull the shifters that is...and after I get the crossmember/skidplate figured out <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131018/CrawlerAssembled.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Just thought I'd pass this along in case it might help someone else in the future -- my rig is an '80, so it had the input shaft with splines that weren't the same as the '81+ models... This page explains that you can grind the splines down to fit.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/848136-toyota-duals-some-ts-dont-work.html" target="_blank">toyota duals some ts dont work - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum</a></p><p></p><p>Even with grinding, the t-case didn't really want to just drop in to place...but, after tightening down the 6 t-case-to-adapter bolts, it eventually all sealed up just fine.</p><p></p><p>You don't have to grind much, btw... Just enough to flatten out the points on the back part of the input shaft and make them even with the front part of the shaft.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Just dropped $360 (with shipping) for one of these with a skid plate:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=71&osCsid=vcsbfxdd***" target="_blank">Front Range Off-Road Fabrication</a></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>The new FROR skid plate and cross member showed up Friday evening. I haven't gotten them installed yet, but I did get this done this evening:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131027/TripleSticks1.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>I've got to graft the All-Pro t-case brake into the cross member before I can install it. Maybe next weekend.</p><p></p><p>I also installed a new Aisin clutch before getting the new transmission bolted up. The one that was in there was perfectly fine (actually looked almost new). I'll keep it for a spare, or sell it cheap if I decide it's taking up too much space.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Got the cross member hung today (yay!). I wanted to get the drive train mounted up as high as possible, and ended up having to cut a bunch more than I'd originally planned:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131103/IMG_0285.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>That's OK, though... Here's how the belly ended up (sorry about the crappy pic -- it was the best that my stupid camera would take):</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131103/IMG_0276.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I probably could have tucked it up a bit higher, but my jack was topped out and I was OK with there it sat <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Well, for the first time in I don't know how long, the Cow now has a front drive shaft <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131128/FrontDS1.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131128/FrontDS2.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>TG driveline kit w/sched 40 and stock CV joint at the t-case. It's not perfect, but it'll work for the front DS on a wheeler. I did have to trim a little bit (~3/4" or so) off of the right side the skid in order to fit the CV joint.</p><p></p><p>Next up -- reinstall the exhaust and reroute the fuel lines (since I had to remove both in order to put the FROR cross member in).</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Today I got the exhaust re-hung, and got the e-brake connected (the first time this thing has had an e-brake since I got it!). I also drilled out the smaller (8mm??) bolt holes on the t-case output flange to 10mm, and filled the trans with oil.</p><p></p><p>On a whim, I picked up some oil to do an oil change on the Cow yesterday... It's only been about 3 or 4 years since I last gave it an oil change. This is what came out <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131130/IMG_0300.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The specs for this guy say it takes 5qts w/filter. This is how much came out:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131130/IMG_0305.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Doesn't seem like a whole lot of extra, and it doesn't seem to have lost any coolant. Likewise, I don't seem to have any oil in the coolant. It is possible that this is just the result of having only been run to warm up a few times a year (i.e.: condensation in the crank case)?</p><p></p><p>I'm really not wanting to pulling the head off of this thing and taking it to be machined...</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Just did a (wet) compression test -- 170, 180, 175, and 170 (1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively). The plugs were all dry, with the exception of a little bit of oil on the #4 plug threads. I'm thinking I'll just order up a head gasket kit anyway (they're only $40 from RockAuto). I'd rather replace it without a real need to than to really need to and ignore it.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Hmmm...</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131201/IMG_0307.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Welp...</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131222/PC220015.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>On the plus side, the rig is moving under it's own power again. It's FWD only right now, but still.</p><p></p><p>The new setup is a bit different than the old setup... I was just trying to see if it was working, and let off the clutch like I would with the old setup, but it was in compound low. It grabbed a good bit sooner than the old setup, and scared the crap out of me in the process 'cuz it jerked a lot harder than it ever did it the old setup...and it was about 6' away from the 300 (with the Chrysler directly in it's path) lol</p><p></p><p></p><p>Don't really know why I did it, but I pulled the oil fill cap while I had it running earlier. It has more blow-by than my Cummins with nearly 200k miles on it <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> I don't remember it having massive blow-by before, but I also don't recall if I've ever pulled the oil cap while it was running, either... Now I'm worried that there's more than just a blown head gasket. If I end up having to rebuild the engine, I'll probably just put a Chevy V6 in there (which I really don't want to do at this point).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ChrisCo, post: 1559115, member: 18105"] Welp, there went this year's "bonus". Just ordered up a doubler kit and a couple of little odds and ends from Marlin, and a clutch kit from RockAuto. The transmission/t-case combo has now cost me more than half of the rig's original purchase price lol Last thing I need now is a clutch fork. Going to stop by Toyota of Kirkland tomorrow morning to see how much KY I need to supply... Seems very few clutch forks are floating around on the open market :( ---- Well, poo. It looks like the t-case I picked up yesterday doesn't match up to the trans. It seems the shift rods are too long. Both are 21 spline, and both were from '86 4-Runners...but one was EFI and the other was carb'd. It seems the shift rods on the t-case is different lengths between the two :( Guess I'll have to wait for Marlin or TG to get their top-shift conversion kits back into stock :( ---- ...or not. It looks like it's fairly simple to convert the longer shift rail to a short one, so (since I've pretty much maxed out my Cow-mod budget for the year) I'll have to give it a shot. For reference: [url=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/793167-arghh-how-do-i-get-around.html]ARGHH how do I get around this? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum[/url] ---- Newest power mod. Good for at least 10000 ft lb of torque :D [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20130926/100ftlb.JPG[/img] Clocked crawlbox setup from Marlin, and a new Aisin clutch slave from RockAuto... [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20130926/CrawlerKit.JPG[/img] Unfortunately, my whole team is supposed to work this weekend in order to meet an already slipped schedule, so I probably won't get anything done on it till next weekend :( ---- Made a quick trip over to ToK to order up a new clutch fork this morning, and they already had a couple in stock :good: New clutch is supposed to be delivered today. I'm working this weekend, so even if it *does* show up, I won't be able to do anything with it. Oh, and All-Pro can go :swing: themselves. The t-case brake I ordered from them on 9/17 still hasn't showed up. I got a tracking # the day after I'd ordered, but it kept showing that UPS hadn't received the package. It wasn't till I asked their sales people where my parts were that I was told it didn't go out till the 25th. Yeah, I probably sound a bit petty complaining about having to wait a week before parts are sent, but if they don't have the parts sitting on the shelf ready to be shipped, they need to communicate that information instead of just leaving the customer hanging. ---- Well, FedEx delivered the clutch yesterday...sometime after 9pm :crazy: So, I've still got a problem with the shift rails on the new t-case being too long. I've been hunting all over the interweb for the correct part numbers, but my MSFT-goo seems to be killing my GOOG-foo :biggrin: I can't find chit about it. My first thought was to convert it to a top-shift t-case, but that'd leave a hole to be filled in the transmission. I also don't happen to have a spare top-shift shifter available. I'm considering lopping off a bit off of the hi/lo shift rail and welding back together. Anyone ever tried doing that before? ---- Welp. Got the new t-case torn down this evening and (almost) ready to get the MC07 installed. The gears look seem to be in good shape. I need to either modify or replace the shift rail before I go any farther. Since I have a spare shift rail (the 2/4wd shift rail is not used), I think I'll try cutting and welding the spare to see how well it works out before I screw up the shift rail that I actually need. No pics. My shop camera refused to cooperate, and my phone didn't seem to take the pictures that I thought it did :mad: Found this a few days ago... Meant to post up a link to it: [url=http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/]1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual[/url] ---- T-case brake finally showed up today... Lets see how long it takes to get installed. I'm hoping the 10* clock on the e-case won't cause any problem with getting it mounted. ---- I got to spend a few hours out in the garage this evening. Got the adapter mounted to the reduction box, and did a few little odds and ends to get ready to remove the transmission/t-case from the Cow. Hoping to get them pulled out of the Cow tomorrow, and get the shift rail shortened up so I can get it all put together this weekend. ---- Cut ~3/4" out of the hi/lo shift rail and got it welded back together without a problem. Got the crawl box bolted to the new transmission. Waiting till tomorrow to pull the old trans out, and mount up the old t-case to the new transmission and crawl box. ---- Well, crap. None of my jacks can reach the bottom of the transmission in the Cow. Guess I'll have to pick up a transmission jack next week... ---- Deflated the tires AND ended up building a box to take up the slack between the top of the (motorcycle) jack and the transmission. Had to air back up to get it out from under the rig, tho :redneck: ---- Crawler all put together and ready go in to the rig...after I pull the shifters that is...and after I get the crossmember/skidplate figured out :) [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131018/CrawlerAssembled.JPG[/img] ---- Just thought I'd pass this along in case it might help someone else in the future -- my rig is an '80, so it had the input shaft with splines that weren't the same as the '81+ models... This page explains that you can grind the splines down to fit. [url=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/848136-toyota-duals-some-ts-dont-work.html]toyota duals some ts dont work - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum[/url] Even with grinding, the t-case didn't really want to just drop in to place...but, after tightening down the 6 t-case-to-adapter bolts, it eventually all sealed up just fine. You don't have to grind much, btw... Just enough to flatten out the points on the back part of the input shaft and make them even with the front part of the shaft. ---- Just dropped $360 (with shipping) for one of these with a skid plate: [url=http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=71&osCsid=vcsbfxdd***]Front Range Off-Road Fabrication[/url] ---- The new FROR skid plate and cross member showed up Friday evening. I haven't gotten them installed yet, but I did get this done this evening: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131027/TripleSticks1.JPG[/img] :D I've got to graft the All-Pro t-case brake into the cross member before I can install it. Maybe next weekend. I also installed a new Aisin clutch before getting the new transmission bolted up. The one that was in there was perfectly fine (actually looked almost new). I'll keep it for a spare, or sell it cheap if I decide it's taking up too much space. ---- Got the cross member hung today (yay!). I wanted to get the drive train mounted up as high as possible, and ended up having to cut a bunch more than I'd originally planned: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131103/IMG_0285.JPG[/img] That's OK, though... Here's how the belly ended up (sorry about the crappy pic -- it was the best that my stupid camera would take): [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131103/IMG_0276.JPG[/img] I probably could have tucked it up a bit higher, but my jack was topped out and I was OK with there it sat :D ---- Well, for the first time in I don't know how long, the Cow now has a front drive shaft :D [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131128/FrontDS1.JPG[/img] [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131128/FrontDS2.JPG[/img] TG driveline kit w/sched 40 and stock CV joint at the t-case. It's not perfect, but it'll work for the front DS on a wheeler. I did have to trim a little bit (~3/4" or so) off of the right side the skid in order to fit the CV joint. Next up -- reinstall the exhaust and reroute the fuel lines (since I had to remove both in order to put the FROR cross member in). ---- Today I got the exhaust re-hung, and got the e-brake connected (the first time this thing has had an e-brake since I got it!). I also drilled out the smaller (8mm??) bolt holes on the t-case output flange to 10mm, and filled the trans with oil. On a whim, I picked up some oil to do an oil change on the Cow yesterday... It's only been about 3 or 4 years since I last gave it an oil change. This is what came out :( [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131130/IMG_0300.JPG[/img] The specs for this guy say it takes 5qts w/filter. This is how much came out: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131130/IMG_0305.JPG[/img] Doesn't seem like a whole lot of extra, and it doesn't seem to have lost any coolant. Likewise, I don't seem to have any oil in the coolant. It is possible that this is just the result of having only been run to warm up a few times a year (i.e.: condensation in the crank case)? I'm really not wanting to pulling the head off of this thing and taking it to be machined... ---- Just did a (wet) compression test -- 170, 180, 175, and 170 (1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively). The plugs were all dry, with the exception of a little bit of oil on the #4 plug threads. I'm thinking I'll just order up a head gasket kit anyway (they're only $40 from RockAuto). I'd rather replace it without a real need to than to really need to and ignore it. ---- Hmmm... [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131201/IMG_0307.JPG[/img] ---- Welp... [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131222/PC220015.JPG[/img] On the plus side, the rig is moving under it's own power again. It's FWD only right now, but still. The new setup is a bit different than the old setup... I was just trying to see if it was working, and let off the clutch like I would with the old setup, but it was in compound low. It grabbed a good bit sooner than the old setup, and scared the crap out of me in the process 'cuz it jerked a lot harder than it ever did it the old setup...and it was about 6' away from the 300 (with the Chrysler directly in it's path) lol Don't really know why I did it, but I pulled the oil fill cap while I had it running earlier. It has more blow-by than my Cummins with nearly 200k miles on it :( I don't remember it having massive blow-by before, but I also don't recall if I've ever pulled the oil cap while it was running, either... Now I'm worried that there's more than just a blown head gasket. If I end up having to rebuild the engine, I'll probably just put a Chevy V6 in there (which I really don't want to do at this point). [/QUOTE]
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Jeep TJ tube buggy for sale $32,000.00
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