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<blockquote data-quote="ChrisCo" data-source="post: 1559116" data-attributes="member: 18105"><p>Let the Cow out of its stall long enough to turn it around and pull it right back in to the stall to be decapitated...</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/DecapitatedCow.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I was expecting to find a complete blow-out on the head gasket...but, oddly, it seemed fine. This is where it was leaking:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/SignsOfLeak.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The corresponding mating surface on the head is on the upper-left:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/HeadMatingSurface.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>(yes, I was out of space on the workbench and had to resort to laying parts on the floor :lol<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>I've got a short piece of machined O1 steel from when I was still making knives... I keep it floating around the shop because it's really handy for a precision straight edge. I did find a bit of a dip in the area where the leak was at. Unfortunately, the piece of O1 is a little bit on the short side (12" IIRC), so I really couldn't get a good read on the status of the whole head. Regardless, I'll have it decked anyway.</p><p></p><p>Anyone know of a good machine shop in the Redmond/Kirkland/Bellevue area?</p><p></p><p></p><p>Oh, and I was really expecting to find gnarly cylinder walls, but they're in really good shape! No ridges, no scrapes... You can even see hash marks (I was told that the engine was rebuilt shortly before I bought it, but didn't really believe 'em).</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/HashMarks.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Decided to check again this morning using a longer straight edge, some feeler gauges, and different lighting. It looks like what I thought were gaps due to the head being a bit warped last night were actually just light showing under the straight edge through the oil and coolant ports -- d'oh! Using the feeler gauges, I couldn't get a .010 gauge to slide between the straight edge and the mating surface anywhere. I checked all along the length of the straight edge in several places both length wise, and diagonally across the head (both ways). I don't see any signs of cracks or any other reason that'd cause the gasket to leak, so maybe it was just a crappy gasket and/or incorrectly torqued head studs?</p><p></p><p>I checked the mating surface on the block with the straight edge and feeler gauges, too... No problems at all that I could find...granted, I couldn't do as thorough of a job checking the block due to pistons sticking up slightly above the surface <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" /></p><p></p><p>Thoughts?</p><p></p><p>I also did the gas-in-the-combustion-chamber test to check the valves this morning... They all held the gas just fine (yay).</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Now an update on something other than the head gasket... </p><p></p><p>While installing the dual t-cases, FROR x-member, and Alpo...er, All-Pro t-case brake, I had to remove the fuel lines. With the exception of a short stretch of original fuel line, I'd previously used rubber hose to run the lines. I never really liked that setup, so I ordered up some nice 1/4" stainless steel fuel line, AN fittings, and a 37* flare tool (for those who don't already know this, AN fittings use 37* flares instead of the normal 45* flares you get with most common flare tools)</p><p></p><p>After getting the coiled SS line all straightened out, then getting it all bent to shape for the way I wanted to run the line, I started to flare the ends. So, I begin trying to flare the ends...and notice that the point of the flaring tool is crumbling :msp_cursing:</p><p></p><p>Till that point, it'd never crossed my mind how hard SS is to work with, nor did it really cross my mind that I go the cheapest flare tool I could from Summit Racing. So, after a little research, I found that it was less expensive to order up 20' of aluminum line and another (even cheaper) flaring tool. The new fuel line showed up last week, and (clearly) got the new fuel lines run.</p><p></p><p>Anyone have any use for some 1/4" SS tubing (20' cut into 3 pieces -- I forget how long each piece is)?</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>Got the head re-installed and picked up a new dizzy cap. It runs a LOT better now (not sure how much of that is the HG, or how much is the dizzy cap <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />). It had a bit of a miss before, but it's smooth as can be at idle now. It still sputters a bit when I get on the gas right off idle, but that may be related to the year-old gas that's in it.</p><p></p><p>Since I had the cooling system drained for the HG change, I ordered and installed a 10-plate heat exchanger for the on-board shower setup. I've gotta' figure out how I'm going to run the water lines.</p><p></p><p>I also cut the stock rear d-shaft down by 9" as a get-by so I can move the rig around the driveway without having to keep it in 4wd. Gotta' look into having a new d-shaft made up soon.</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Nope <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> I've spent pretty much every weekend this year working on fixing up our old place in Gold Bar to get it up on the market. It was supposed to go on the market in March, but (after turning the water back on) I found that my attempt at winterizing the place failed miserably <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> Every pipe in the back half of the house was busted, so I got to rip out a bunch of ruined drywall (including nearly the entire dining room ceiling) and fix the plumbing. </p><p></p><p>I did take a break from the normal routine this afternoon to give the Cow a bit of attention. I'd started putting together a new transmission hump a month or so back, but family came to town and other crap got in the way, so it got left on the work bench. I finally got out there and finished it up, and got it tacked into place.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20140720/NewTransmissionHump.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I'm hoping to get it fully welded in place by next weekend. Afterwards, I'll be beginning the internal cage. I'm hoping to get a new rear drive shaft, winch, and materials to build a front bumper in September (bonus time).</p><p></p><p>This thing is the worlds slowest build... I've only been working on it for like six years now :shok:</p><p></p><p>btw, I meant to look when I was out there on Saturday, but completely forgot... Is your RTI ramp still at your old place? If it is, do you mind if I use it to flex out the Cow to get the measurements for the drive shaft?</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>HA! Here it is 3+ months later, and I still haven't finished the trans hump yet. I did get the middle all welded in, but I have only gotten one side of the x-member cover fabbed up (but not yet welded in). The good news is that I got my house in Gold Bar all straightened out and on the market, so as soon as I get all caught up on the crap that I've had to push out for the past 9 months, I'll be getting busy on this thing again...</p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p></p><p>I managed to get a <em>little</em> bit of work done on the Cow today. Got the transmission hump about half done, and I have the templates all setup to cut out the remaining pieces for the other side. I'm hoping to get the rest done over the holiday.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20141123/Transmission_Hump_Almost_Done.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>95% done with the tunnel now. It ain't the pertiest, but it's functional (and certainly stiffens up the floor pan compared to the gaping hole that was there before <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20141129/Finished_Tunnel.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I thought I was 100% done, but after snapping this photo I realized that I missed welding a spot at the front of the tunnel. Oh, well... I'll take care of that tomorrow (if I have enough shielding gas).</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150215/RollCage1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Got the main hoop for the internal cage bent up Saturday night/Sunday afternoon. As much as I hate to waste the tube, I'm thinking about reworking this. I wanted it to follow the inside-body lines, but I've got a 4" gap between the outside of the widest part of the uprights and the side of the body <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> I'm surprised it turned out as well as it did, though, considering I hadn't bent tube in about two and a half years or so...</p><p></p><p>Another reason I'm thinking about rebuilding this is to be able to relocate where they mount. Right now, I've got it setup to be welded directly to the frame...but it doesn't leave me any room to drop it down to fully weld the tube. That'd be so much easier to do if there wasn't a roof on this thing :crazy:</p><p></p><p>----</p><p></p><p>It's been a few months since I've updated this thread... Since my last post, I've re-bent the main hoop, and got the A-pillars bent up...</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Took a break last month to celebrate 21 years with the ol' lady. Came back and got as busy as time and responsibilities allow... I was trying really hard to avoid splicing the tube for the cage, but when I got back from Hawaii, I sat in the cab and saw this...</p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Yep. I completely forgot to account for one plane <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> Oh, well. I can't afford to waste the tube, so I cut and spliced the A-pillars in three places to fix it (all splices are with 1.5" .020 DOM, 6" long pieces, with rosette and butt welds). Here's what it looks like now (just loosely clamped into place in the cab -- it'll be straighter when it's done):</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage3.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I also got two stretchers put in (one on the bottom of the main hoop, one on the top between the A-pillars):</p><p></p><p><img src="http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I've still got a few more stretchers to put together, then it'll be time to weld it up... I still don't know how the heck I'm going to get it fully welded... Right now, the feet of the cage are all on the body mounts, so I can't exactly drop it through the floor. Oh well... I'll figure it out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ChrisCo, post: 1559116, member: 18105"] Let the Cow out of its stall long enough to turn it around and pull it right back in to the stall to be decapitated... [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/DecapitatedCow.JPG[/img] I was expecting to find a complete blow-out on the head gasket...but, oddly, it seemed fine. This is where it was leaking: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/SignsOfLeak.JPG[/img] The corresponding mating surface on the head is on the upper-left: [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/HeadMatingSurface.JPG[/img] (yes, I was out of space on the workbench and had to resort to laying parts on the floor :lol:) I've got a short piece of machined O1 steel from when I was still making knives... I keep it floating around the shop because it's really handy for a precision straight edge. I did find a bit of a dip in the area where the leak was at. Unfortunately, the piece of O1 is a little bit on the short side (12" IIRC), so I really couldn't get a good read on the status of the whole head. Regardless, I'll have it decked anyway. Anyone know of a good machine shop in the Redmond/Kirkland/Bellevue area? Oh, and I was really expecting to find gnarly cylinder walls, but they're in really good shape! No ridges, no scrapes... You can even see hash marks (I was told that the engine was rebuilt shortly before I bought it, but didn't really believe 'em). [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20131223/HashMarks.JPG[/img] ---- Decided to check again this morning using a longer straight edge, some feeler gauges, and different lighting. It looks like what I thought were gaps due to the head being a bit warped last night were actually just light showing under the straight edge through the oil and coolant ports -- d'oh! Using the feeler gauges, I couldn't get a .010 gauge to slide between the straight edge and the mating surface anywhere. I checked all along the length of the straight edge in several places both length wise, and diagonally across the head (both ways). I don't see any signs of cracks or any other reason that'd cause the gasket to leak, so maybe it was just a crappy gasket and/or incorrectly torqued head studs? I checked the mating surface on the block with the straight edge and feeler gauges, too... No problems at all that I could find...granted, I couldn't do as thorough of a job checking the block due to pistons sticking up slightly above the surface :P Thoughts? I also did the gas-in-the-combustion-chamber test to check the valves this morning... They all held the gas just fine (yay). ---- Now an update on something other than the head gasket... While installing the dual t-cases, FROR x-member, and Alpo...er, All-Pro t-case brake, I had to remove the fuel lines. With the exception of a short stretch of original fuel line, I'd previously used rubber hose to run the lines. I never really liked that setup, so I ordered up some nice 1/4" stainless steel fuel line, AN fittings, and a 37* flare tool (for those who don't already know this, AN fittings use 37* flares instead of the normal 45* flares you get with most common flare tools) After getting the coiled SS line all straightened out, then getting it all bent to shape for the way I wanted to run the line, I started to flare the ends. So, I begin trying to flare the ends...and notice that the point of the flaring tool is crumbling :msp_cursing: Till that point, it'd never crossed my mind how hard SS is to work with, nor did it really cross my mind that I go the cheapest flare tool I could from Summit Racing. So, after a little research, I found that it was less expensive to order up 20' of aluminum line and another (even cheaper) flaring tool. The new fuel line showed up last week, and (clearly) got the new fuel lines run. Anyone have any use for some 1/4" SS tubing (20' cut into 3 pieces -- I forget how long each piece is)? ---- Got the head re-installed and picked up a new dizzy cap. It runs a LOT better now (not sure how much of that is the HG, or how much is the dizzy cap :D). It had a bit of a miss before, but it's smooth as can be at idle now. It still sputters a bit when I get on the gas right off idle, but that may be related to the year-old gas that's in it. Since I had the cooling system drained for the HG change, I ordered and installed a 10-plate heat exchanger for the on-board shower setup. I've gotta' figure out how I'm going to run the water lines. I also cut the stock rear d-shaft down by 9" as a get-by so I can move the rig around the driveway without having to keep it in 4wd. Gotta' look into having a new d-shaft made up soon. ---- Nope :( I've spent pretty much every weekend this year working on fixing up our old place in Gold Bar to get it up on the market. It was supposed to go on the market in March, but (after turning the water back on) I found that my attempt at winterizing the place failed miserably :( Every pipe in the back half of the house was busted, so I got to rip out a bunch of ruined drywall (including nearly the entire dining room ceiling) and fix the plumbing. I did take a break from the normal routine this afternoon to give the Cow a bit of attention. I'd started putting together a new transmission hump a month or so back, but family came to town and other crap got in the way, so it got left on the work bench. I finally got out there and finished it up, and got it tacked into place. [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20140720/NewTransmissionHump.jpg[/img] I'm hoping to get it fully welded in place by next weekend. Afterwards, I'll be beginning the internal cage. I'm hoping to get a new rear drive shaft, winch, and materials to build a front bumper in September (bonus time). This thing is the worlds slowest build... I've only been working on it for like six years now :shok: btw, I meant to look when I was out there on Saturday, but completely forgot... Is your RTI ramp still at your old place? If it is, do you mind if I use it to flex out the Cow to get the measurements for the drive shaft? ---- HA! Here it is 3+ months later, and I still haven't finished the trans hump yet. I did get the middle all welded in, but I have only gotten one side of the x-member cover fabbed up (but not yet welded in). The good news is that I got my house in Gold Bar all straightened out and on the market, so as soon as I get all caught up on the crap that I've had to push out for the past 9 months, I'll be getting busy on this thing again... ---- I managed to get a [I]little[/I] bit of work done on the Cow today. Got the transmission hump about half done, and I have the templates all setup to cut out the remaining pieces for the other side. I'm hoping to get the rest done over the holiday. [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20141123/Transmission_Hump_Almost_Done.jpg[/img] ---- 95% done with the tunnel now. It ain't the pertiest, but it's functional (and certainly stiffens up the floor pan compared to the gaping hole that was there before :P) [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20141129/Finished_Tunnel.jpg[/img] I thought I was 100% done, but after snapping this photo I realized that I missed welding a spot at the front of the tunnel. Oh, well... I'll take care of that tomorrow (if I have enough shielding gas). ---- [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150215/RollCage1.jpg[/img] Got the main hoop for the internal cage bent up Saturday night/Sunday afternoon. As much as I hate to waste the tube, I'm thinking about reworking this. I wanted it to follow the inside-body lines, but I've got a 4" gap between the outside of the widest part of the uprights and the side of the body :( I'm surprised it turned out as well as it did, though, considering I hadn't bent tube in about two and a half years or so... Another reason I'm thinking about rebuilding this is to be able to relocate where they mount. Right now, I've got it setup to be welded directly to the frame...but it doesn't leave me any room to drop it down to fully weld the tube. That'd be so much easier to do if there wasn't a roof on this thing :crazy: ---- It's been a few months since I've updated this thread... Since my last post, I've re-bent the main hoop, and got the A-pillars bent up... [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage1.jpg[/img] Took a break last month to celebrate 21 years with the ol' lady. Came back and got as busy as time and responsibilities allow... I was trying really hard to avoid splicing the tube for the cage, but when I got back from Hawaii, I sat in the cab and saw this... [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage2.jpg[/img] Yep. I completely forgot to account for one plane :( Oh, well. I can't afford to waste the tube, so I cut and spliced the A-pillars in three places to fix it (all splices are with 1.5" .020 DOM, 6" long pieces, with rosette and butt welds). Here's what it looks like now (just loosely clamped into place in the cab -- it'll be straighter when it's done): [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage3.jpg[/img] I also got two stretchers put in (one on the bottom of the main hoop, one on the top between the A-pillars): [img]http://chrisco.texas-222.com/20150510/RollCage4.jpg[/img] I've still got a few more stretchers to put together, then it'll be time to weld it up... I still don't know how the heck I'm going to get it fully welded... Right now, the feet of the cage are all on the body mounts, so I can't exactly drop it through the floor. Oh well... I'll figure it out. [/QUOTE]
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