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CJ wandering issue...

GM gets their steering boxes from a company called: Saginaw. Google "Saginaw steering boxes" and you can learn quite a bit. Almost ALL Saginaw / GM or Saginaw / Jeep boxes will interchange.

Some of the variations of the boxes include the mounting tabs. Some have three tabs, some have a fourth. The fourth tab boxes are a little more desireable as you can secure them to the frame tighter, but if you don't want the extra mounting tab, you can cut it off.

Some boxes have different 'ratios'. Some are a little over three turns, lock to lock. Some are a little over four turns, lock to lock. Some are fixed ratio, and some are variable ratio. The fixed ratio turns equally. The variable ratio turns less when the wheel is centered, and faster as you move closer to the full turn.

I'm NOT an expert.

But you should be able to get pretty much ANY GM or Jeep box. I have friends who really prefer those from Camaros. Don't know what year to tell you.
 
The variable ratio power steering box used on Wagoneers is a straight replacement, and dealing with 39" tires off road, would like the variable rate.

Slop in the box and bellcoupler is an issue, but all the other things mentioned get made worse by putting on bigger tires. When I bought mine, steering all clapped out, switching from 33x12.50's to 33x10.50's made it almost like a new rig. Now that I have done some work to the steering, I'm planning on going to some 35" tires.

But, with 84" of wheelbase, a CJ-5 will ALWAYS require a watchful operator. There was an element of truth in the hue and cry that was raised about the rollover issue. CJ's aren't/can't be driven like a passenger car.
 
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I assumed you already played with the adjuster on top of the stearing gear to try and get the play out right? loose shaft means rebuild but it might help for a short term fix.
 
I assumed you already played with the adjuster on top of the stearing gear to try and get the play out right? loose shaft means rebuild but it might help for a short term fix.
thats a NO-NO. not used to take up slop from worn parts.
 
GM gets their steering boxes from a company called: Saginaw. Google "Saginaw steering boxes" and you can learn quite a bit. Almost ALL Saginaw / GM or Saginaw / Jeep boxes will interchange.

Some of the variations of the boxes include the mounting tabs. Some have three tabs, some have a fourth. The fourth tab boxes are a little more desireable as you can secure them to the frame tighter, but if you don't want the extra mounting tab, you can cut it off.

Some boxes have different 'ratios'. Some are a little over three turns, lock to lock. Some are a little over four turns, lock to lock. Some are fixed ratio, and some are variable ratio. The fixed ratio turns equally. The variable ratio turns less when the wheel is centered, and faster as you move closer to the full turn.

I'm NOT an expert.

But you should be able to get pretty much ANY GM or Jeep box. I have friends who really prefer those from Camaros. Don't know what year to tell you.

There are different splines and shaft diameters available on the input to the box. Also, avoid any of the full size Chevy trucks since the boxes will either have the wrong mounting pattern ('88+) or be mounted on the outside of the frame ('87 & prior). Vans are bad too since the sector shaft turns in a different direction than a standard box.
 
There are different splines and shaft diameters available on the input to the box. Also, avoid any of the full size Chevy trucks since the boxes will either have the wrong mounting pattern ('88+) or be mounted on the outside of the frame ('87 & prior). Vans are bad too since the sector shaft turns in a different direction than a standard box.

What are the best boxes to swap into it??
How about a toy IFS box??
 
What are the best boxes to swap into it??
How about a toy IFS box??

Why go with anything other than a Saginaw box? I don't know exactly which one will just 'bolt in'. A little time with your good friend Google should give an answer.

Another thing I forgot to mention, the Saginaw boxes used two different types of hydraulic fittings. The earlier boxes were Inverse Flare. The later ones used an o-ring fitting.

Before you start throwing parts at it, check out the things others have suggested. If your alignment and steering geometry is f'd up, it'll never drive right.
 
Why go with anything other than a Saginaw box? I don't know exactly which one will just 'bolt in'. A little time with your good friend Google should give an answer.

Another thing I forgot to mention, the Saginaw boxes used two different types of hydraulic fittings. The earlier boxes were Inverse Flare. The later ones used an o-ring fitting.

Before you start throwing parts at it, check out the things others have suggested. If your alignment and steering geometry is f'd up, it'll never drive right.

It goes to the alignment shop at noon tomorrow.
I just wanted to get the new springs and tires under it first. ;)
 
IMO you should just link the damn thing. You have a suspension shop for christ sakes. coils/Hydro assist/4 link will put that thing on rails. (well at least untill you turn it sharp at 50)... :fawkdancesmiley:
 
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