Common AX10 Mods

[bobbed_84_toy]

I'm going to order my AX10 this weekend and start to get into RC crawling. Just wanted to know what the common mods were. Seems like high clearance and inboarded links are high on the list. What works? What doesn't?

 

[crash2]

Oh man--its like buying a toyota--the mods go endless lol

 

[Myke J]

I put Losi Rock Claws on mine when I built it, the stock tires are still in the box. Along with a little weight in the wheels. Most people say around 3-4oz front and 1oz rear. I have about 6oz front and 2oz rear and it works good for me.

Softer springs make a big difference. Either the Axail springs or TCS internal springs.

A split 2/3A pack mounted over the front axle is great for keeping the COG low.

 

[bulzeye]

I put Losi Rock Claws on mine when I built it, the stock tires are still in the box. Along with a little weight in the wheels. Most people say around 3-4oz front and 1oz rear. I have about 6oz front and 2oz rear and it works good for me.

Softer springs make a big difference. Either the Axail springs or TCS internal springs.

A split 2/3A pack mounted over the front axle is great for keeping the COG low.

i think the stock springs are plenty soft enough. the rig stock has way to much articulation. i would put the bump stops that come with the kit, inside the shocks to limit travel. i'm using almost 1/2 of fuel tubing internally to limit shock travel.


collars for the drive shafts are a good idea as they like to pop off frequently.

 

[crash2]

Comp wise--stiffer spring....

 

[CHOP SHOP]

collars for the drive shafts are a good idea as they like to pop off frequently.

they want alot for those collars. My friends axial did the same alot. We went to the local ace hardware and found the brass tubing display. there is one size that is a press fit on the axial driveshafts. We cut four 1/2 inch collars and pressed them on=pretso hasnt done it since. only cost $3.

the knuckles break way too easily also. they drill a hole so it will break right behind the tierod frequently.:booo: my friend made fun of my stock plastic tierod,(WK) but I dont break knuckles. His doesnt break because it binds up, it breaks them cuz you hit the stout alum tierod on a rock and the tierod is stonger than the knuckle. if you break one, you can drill a hole right behind the break and swap that knuckle with a rear then adjust the rear rod to fit the new hole. you can break two then its time for alum knuckles.

I heard a couple of guys at 4 seasons rock pile talking to each other. they were talking about how they didnt understand all the new links and other work and still a gay tierod on my truck. Then about twenty minutes later one broke a stock knuckle.

I did however make the draglink from metal so it does not flex, just the tierod.:awesomework:

 

[bulzeye]

they want alot for those collars. My friends axial did the same alot. We went to the local ace hardware and found the brass tubing display. there is one size that is a press fit on the axial driveshafts. We cut four 1/2 inch collars and pressed them on=pretso hasnt done it since. only cost $3.

the knuckles break way too easily also. they drill a hole so it will break right behind the tierod frequently.:booo: my friend made fun of my stock plastic tierod,(WK) but I dont break knuckles. His doesnt break because it binds up, it breaks them cuz you hit the stout alum tierod on a rock and the tierod is stonger than the knuckle. if you break one, you can drill a hole right behind the break and swap that knuckle with a rear then adjust the rear rod to fit the new hole. you can break two then its time for alum knuckles.

I heard a couple of guys at 4 seasons rock pile talking to each other. they were talking about how they didnt understand all the new links and other work and still a gay tierod on my truck. Then about twenty minutes later one broke a stock knuckle.

I did however make the draglink from metal so it does not flex, just the tierod.:awesomework:

i'm just using zipties around my driveshafts and haven't had any more issues. I also haven't broke a knuckle or anything on the rig and it's been so bound up i had to move the rocks around in order to get it out.

 

[Grommit327]

I have a set of the driveshaft collars and they catch on everything. I don't even run them anymore. I would skip them and just upgrade to max shafts if you have a problem. I went with the new Losi 4" shocks because I couldn't keep caps on the stock ones. Definitely rework your link setup. Try to get it to a dual triangulated type of setup as it helps with flex steer and torque twist. The problem with the bent links is they interfere with the shocks but some creativity can get around it. I am running 3oz front and 1.5oz rear but will be jumping up weight a bit when my new wheels come in. Look at replacing the front C's/knuckles with aluminum parts (RCP's are nice). So far I've just been upgrading the parts I've broken and that includes wheels, front C's/knuckles, shocks. VF has a new dig unit out that is pimp and attaches to the Axial tranny (hopefully mine's in the mail soon). Lot's of tire selection too. The stockers are crap...check out the new Proline Hammers coming out...they include memory foams.

 

[Grommit327]

i'm just using zipties around my driveshafts and haven't had any more issues. I also haven't broke a knuckle or anything on the rig and it's been so bound up i had to move the rocks around in order to get it out.

Hahaha...when I snapped my wheel the truck was so bound up it was actually lifting the whole thing in the air by the power to the one wheel that was wedged...moral of the story...undercuts suck :haha:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

i'm just using zipties around my driveshafts and haven't had any more issues. I also haven't broke a knuckle or anything on the rig and it's been so bound up i had to move the rocks around in order to get it out.

We hadnt broke one from being bound up. They break from when you hit a rock with the tierod.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I have a set of the driveshaft collars and they catch on everything. I don't even run them anymore.

check out the new Proline Hammers coming out...they include memory foams.

the brass tubing we cut with a tubing cutter so it left a nice rolled edge that was smooth. we had to file out one end of the brass collars to fit the ujoint end.:redneck:

when are the hammers coming out?? price maybe??

 

[crash2]

Steel yokes--be done :awesomework:

 

[Grommit327]

I think they are getting released sometime this week. MSRP of $22 a pair with memory foams in M2 or M3 compound. There is a presale at RPPhobby.com...only place that I know of that is doing it. I also watched the badlands do pretty good at the comp this weekend

 

[ROOKIE]

i haven't had a problem yet on my drive shafts,i also had to put a light weight shock oil and sorter springs in mine to get it to flex nice and easy.bent links work good also.

 

[Dude]

The best thing to do is basically not buy the whole AX-10 kit. Buy the trans, get the axles and all the aluminum goodies for the axles including the RCP rear straight axle kit with axle shafts and go with a GC-1 chassis. Bar none one of the best chassis ever produced.

Drive shafts are an easy thing to fix, basically throw the Axial ones out the door and go with Traxxas Stampede long shafts or Traxxas Jato shafts, problem solved.

I would also up grade the locker on the AX-10, it wears out fast. I think if I am not wrong Axial has a upgrade for that.

If you don't want to go with an after market chassis, you are going to be hating that wide chassis it comes with. A great chassis width for a comp 2.2 car should be no wider than 2" to 2 1/8th inch at the widest.

As far as tires goes, the Losi Rock Clawz, M3 Mashers, or the new M3 Hammer tire coming out. The Losi's and the M3 Mashers are a proven tire. The M3 Masher has the edge in the wet.

Another thing you will want to do is get rid of the stock shocks. Go with the big bore Traxxas shocks or the best there is, the Losi 4 inch shock. Losi just now has put together a shock kit for us crawler guys which is sweet.