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custom 9" , front..

JOOP

I WON a COOKIE
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
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So a crazy Idea just came through my head. I have a 9" housing from an old ass lincoln. It's the thicker housing for the 9"s. What if, and I know it can be done. But what if I turned it into a front driverside drop front axle with 60 outters and did it myself?? Or should I just look for a 60??
 
Its not much harder than building any other front housing. You need to figure out how you are going to handle the inner axle seals, other than that it is gravy.
 
Dan (Amanda's ex) in the yellow jeep has a Currie 9/60 hybrid. The concept of it was the smaller 9 housing (plenty strong) and the 60 outers with the big u joint and shafts. Works well for him. But more expensive to assemble from scratch, as it requires custom machining to mate the two.
 
My parts for a 9/60 are almost here. I think it's a great idea. If you go to the trouble I would recomend shaving the housing while your at it. This is were the 9 shines over the 60's pumpkin. Also beyond them being custom length the inner shafts are not a big deal. Just call Moser, Currie, Dutchman, etc. They can all make them.
 
Jobless has been running a similar setup but using the d50 outers without an issue(that I know of) for quite some time now. Think that Mauler did the same thing. Don't see any reason not too if you have some of the parts already
 
JOOP said:
So a crazy Idea just came through my head. I have a 9" housing from an old ass lincoln. It's the thicker housing for the 9"s. What if, and I know it can be done. But what if I turned it into a front driverside drop front axle with 60 outters and did it myself?? Or should I just look for a 60??

That's what I'm running, as was Mauler in his last buggy...


...as for needing a HP 3rd...I doubt it.
 
H3RESQ said:
So are the 50 knukles and bearing assembles cheaper than 60's?

It depends...if you can find a Dana 50 front for cheap then yeah.

5+ years ago I paid about $1k for the Dana 50 front. I used the inner/outer knuckles, stub shafts, 1 inner shaft & the both one piece unit bearings...the rest was junked.

What do all the Dana 60 parts cost?
 
The only dowside I see to the Dana 50 stuff is that they use the same ball joints as the Dana 60...which typically develop slop about every 6 months in my heep but they may have something to do with the driver :redneck:

The kingpin units may be stronger and more reliable but they also eliminate alot of useable real estate for mounting the shocks or struts to.
 
Just 60 it and be done. No custom this and that, plus the housing is stronger. No need for the HP thing unless you have excessive angle probs. I was going to do the same thing, but am glad i went with the tried and true almighty 60.
 
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PORTER said:
Just 60 it and be done. No custom this and that, plus the housing is stronger. No need for the HP thing unless you have excessive angle probs. I was going to do the same thing, but am glad i went with the tried and true almighty 60.

X2......2 things to consider; 1) The 9" will have to be re-tubed and the longside will be a candidate for bending unless properly gusseted. 2) if you are using the later model housing? extensive mods will be needed if you are going to use the Lamar friendly leafsprings up front. The driverside spring perch locale will be tricky.

You could prolly get a HP Ford 60 front with KP knuckles built for half teh cost of this 9" plan.
 
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