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D44 highsteer arm

Removing the knuckle is really quite easy. And I'd expect that broken stud is hard as fawk. I'd weld it before I drilled it.

I'm not looking forward to removing that stud, been soaking in **** for days. Alot of room, hoping I don't have to pull the knuckle, bUT dought it. Been to busy, so maybe tomorrow I'll get to tearing it apart.
 
So here's the arm off the rig and cleaned up. Only thing is I drilled out most of the broken stud and it still wouldn't budge, then the ez out broke off in the drilled out stud, time to pull the knuckle and bring it into shop.
 
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So finally getting time to finish, new arm, studs, and cone washers showed up yesterday. Finished pulling hubs, axle shafts, knuckle, etc and holy **** I'm glad I tore it completely down. Ball joints are sloppy as ****, spindle bearing was completely rusted and gone,locking hubs were packed with ****, and the ox joints in my shafts need rebuilt badly, and so on. Tore it completely apart 1 year ago, and rebuilt everything, looks like I'm repeating it again. Damn tires are to big for this d44 and I need to learn how to stay out if the mud:mad: not likely though.
 
I gotta do bearings and rebuild front shaft joints after every Elbe trip. Damn mud.

I'm usullay pretty good about keeping everything in top shape, but with so much work I let it go this year. I was able to weld on a Allen bolt head to bottom of the studs and remove them with no issue, thought for sure 6 yrs of mud/rust would have been a pita! Found ball joints are shot, I have all new high steer arm and studs, spindle bearings etc, went thru the lock outs, and then went to tear apart my ox joints and those are shot too, made a call to Florida and all new bushings, truinions, etc are on the way. So almost ready to go back together, just waiting on a few parts to show,. Then it's snow time:cheer:
Any recommendations on ball joints for d44? Dad and his buddy's use the moog greasable ones. Another question is when I got my new high steer arm I got cone washers, these washers are not split like my old ones, is there any difference?
 
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So new arm,studs, etc are all ready to install and just noticed new arm has 9/16 studs, my old ones were 5/8?? I'm wondering is there high steer arms already drilled for 5/8 studs or did the guy who built this set up drill the arm and knuckle to 5/8.
 
So I found the # of the guy who built it, he said it was a kit (poison spyder) that came with 5/8. I've found 5/8 stud kits but my question is if I drill my new arm out to 5/8, will it affect the taper and or washer? Also just read on pirate that poison spyder arms came with 5/8 studs, and not the standard 9/16. So I think I'm gonna try and drill out washers and arm.
 
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Sounds like a pain in the was. I would be worried about the taper being off for the cones but I could be wrong.

Thats what were contemplating now, I'll find out when I get home if the taper is the same.
We'll the washer taper is the same, so just need to drill out the arm holes and im good, except for finding new 5/8-18-4 studs. Found 1 guy on ebay, but he's gone till after new yrs. Pretty sure Tacoma screw has them, but I think there only grade 5,,, It never ends:mad:
 
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5\8 studs are are the way from crawler tech in Colorado. And come to find out my new arm is already drilled for 5/8 studs:cheer: so once those show up, I'll finally get to assemble it. Of course it had to snow while it's on jack stands.
 
So I got passenger side knuckle/arm on, had to take a tiny bit off the steer arm to clear ball joint, but seeing this is my first ball joint in a very long time I can't remember where or how to torque the camber sleeve in the yoke? It's saying 70 lbs. Where do I get the spanner tool for that?
 
So I got passenger side knuckle/arm on, had to take a tiny bit off the steer arm to clear ball joint, but seeing this is my first ball joint in a very long time I can't remember where or how to torque the camber sleeve in the yoke? It's saying 70 lbs. Where do I get the spanner tool for that?

I have that tool. In Port Orchard.
 
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