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D44 mix and match

sexxy

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Apr 22, 2013
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I have a d44 from an early 70s f100, has high pinion drum brakes and is wider than I want. I also have a d44 from a 79ish scout ii, with disc brakes and the width I want. Is it possible to disassemble both housings and use the long side scout tube on the ford on the opposite side or do I have to swap the inner "C" as well? Trying to get info and game plan before tearing into things. It will be going under a tj that I dd and beat merciless on the trail. The d30 has seen to much breakage and I dont plan on anything bigger than 37/38.
 
You could cut the long side tube on the Ford housing down and use the outers from the scout axle to get disks. Wouldn't have to swap tubes, just remove the C on the side and cut the tube and put the C back on. Getting tubes out of the housing can be a pain without the right size press for it. What width are you looking for?
 
toreadorranger said:
You could cut the long side tube on the Ford housing down and use the outers from the scout axle to get disks. Wouldn't have to swap tubes, just remove the C on the side and cut the tube and put the C back on. Getting tubes out of the housing can be a pain without the right size press for it. What width are you looking for?

Stock scout to stock 80s waggy, 60"ish. Then spacer/adapter on my 8.8 would be very close in width. I think the ford is 6ish inches wider.
 
I would pull the C's off the F250 axle and trim the tubes to width, then throw the C's back on. A lot easier than retubing. Match it up to use off the shelf axle shafts from another D44, so spares are easy.
 
Have you considered the early bronco Dana 44 front? Narrower than the full size ford d44 you have. And lots of aftermarket support for any part of it you could ever need. You could get the later ford full size disc brake stuff on there. Or get 3/4 ton chevy hubs/spindles/knuckles for bigger brakes. I'd at least look into narrowing your axle to maybe that width to use the eb 44 shafts. And all the 44 stuff can play mix and match as far as spindles/knuckles/etc. I'm just throwing crap out there
 
xjtony said:
Have you considered the early bronco Dana 44 front? Narrower than the full size ford d44 you have. And lots of aftermarket support for any part of it you could ever need. You could get the later ford full size disc brake stuff on there. Or get 3/4 ton chevy hubs/spindles/knuckles for bigger brakes. I'd at least look into narrowing your axle to maybe that width to use the eb 44 shafts. And all the 44 stuff can play mix and match as far as spindles/knuckles/etc. I'm just throwing crap out there

Big issue I see is if he is dead set on the high pinion axle. EB D44s are Low pinion.
 
toreadorranger said:
Big issue I see is if he is dead set on the high pinion axle. EB D44s are Low pinion.

Almost dead set. I thought for weight of the d44 might as well get as strong as possible to push the need for tons way down the road. The hp d44 I thought was a good bit stronger than a low pinion and weigh close to the same. I read this on the internet so it has to be the truth. :stir: if not then a low pinion is easy to come across.
 
Re:

The LP is stronger when backing up.

What are you breaking on the d30? Lp or hp?

I would look into newer fords or hybrid outers for the d44. The scout stuff is kinda rare and more expensive. Plus you have to run a really long pitman arm to keep steering from sucking.
 
Re:

paradisepwoffrd said:
The LP is stronger when backing up.

What are you breaking on the d30? Lp or hp?

I would look into newer fords or hybrid outers for the d44. The scout stuff is kinda rare and more expensive. Plus you have to run a really long pitman arm to keep steering from sucking.

So far just axles are breaking, (hpd30 from 90s cherokee with tj axles) I know that when I put chromoly in that will cause the ring gear to start breaking.

Thanks for info on the scout stuff, will not be using the outers.

Will the 80-90s bronco outers bolt up to the d44 knuckle?
 
I did this same thing to my TJ. kinda. I had a Ford 150 hp 44, Chevy knuckles and C's, and had rcv make scout width shafts. Cut the Ford tube down. It's much much easier than retubing. Are you doing a 3 link on it?



Another option: I run the above set up with an 8.8 in the rear, but I put the Yukon Ulitmate 88 kit in it. My rear is now 1/2" narrower than the front and i'm not running spacers.


Oh another thing on the knuckles, if you want high steer try to find Dodge knuckles. My buddy has the same set up i do just with dodge knuckles and putting his RCV's in is so much easier than the Chevy ones. On a Chevy knuckle when you put the bell in it goes in front of the knuckle, on a dodge you do it through the rear and its got more room and it's 1000's easier. If you have any questions about this build let me know, there's 4 of us that run this set up or extremely similar.
 
jeeptj99 said:
I did this same thing to my TJ. kinda. I had a Ford 150 hp 44, Chevy knuckles and C's, and had rcv make scout width shafts. Cut the Ford tube down. It's much much easier than retubing. Are you doing a 3 link on it?



Another option: I run the above set up with an 8.8 in the rear, but I put the Yukon Ulitmate 88 kit in it. My rear is now 1/2" narrower than the front and i'm not running spacers.


Oh another thing on the knuckles, if you want high steer try to find Dodge knuckles. My buddy has the same set up i do just with dodge knuckles and putting his RCV's in is so much easier than the Chevy ones. On a Chevy knuckle when you put the bell in it goes in front of the knuckle, on a dodge you do it through the rear and its got more room and it's 1000's easier. If you have any questions about this build let me know, there's 4 of us that run this set up or extremely similar.

Right now im running stock suspension with hd links and its hold up good so far with the 8.8. Most of the damage is coming from my 11yr learning what to do.

I have not thought about a 3 link but is interesting. Does it handle ok on the highway? Right now I want to keep it so I cant use it as a dd in the warmer months and put top on and still be able to drive to and from the trails as needed.
 
mikeparker said:
Right now im running stock suspension with hd links and its hold up good so far with the 8.8. Most of the damage is coming from my 11yr learning what to do.

I have not thought about a 3 link but is interesting. Does it handle ok on the highway? Right now I want to keep it so I cant use it as a dd in the warmer months and put top on and still be able to drive to and from the trails as needed.


I drove mine on the highway a couple times. But tires not being balanced, plugs in one tire it wasnt for long ha. it handles great on the road with no front sway bar. And its so much more stable off road than the old factory set up.
 
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