D60 steering?

[zuk88]

What's the best way to build a reliable king pin? I see bronze cones and Crane spring eliminators, is this a good route?

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Since the last king pin rolled off the assembly line 23 years ago under a vehicle most likely MUCH heavier than any wheeler you'll likely build. Odds are it has never been rebuilt I'd have to suggest using stock parts since they lasted this long.

 

[zuk88]

Reading up on things and the spring was the weak point. I want something that is strong because I'm moving away from the D44 because of ball joints every year and I want something that can take a beating and still be tight.

 

[zuk88]

Are the Chevy stock knuckles worth keeping and running high steer arms and full hydro?

 

[zuk88]

Since the last king pin rolled off the assembly line 23 years ago under a vehicle most likely MUCH heavier than any wheeler you'll likely build. Odds are it has never been rebuilt I'd have to suggest using stock parts since they lasted this long.

I was told the D44 under the zuk was going to last years too, I want to go overkill this time!

 

[TreeClimber]

Reading up on things and the spring was the weak point. I want something that is strong because I'm moving away from the D44 because of ball joints every year and I want something that can take a beating and still be tight.

Ball joints every year? Something else was wrong. Either your tires were MASSIVE, or the housing was bent, incorrect installation, cheap parts.... something was going on.

I ran 37 Krawlers, which are pretty damn heavy, on D44s for years, before I upgraded, and didn't wear out ball joints.

Regarding my 60 Kingpin, it's stock, with high steer arms.

 

[PORTER]

Just upgrade the outer stub to 35 spline, and run your kingpin 60. I have never broke a knuckle, bent a housing or had a issue with the kingpin setup. If you manage to break an inner updrade to a chromo, the 60 is much stronger that what you are used to running.

 

[Bunk1]

I like using a bronze bushing simply cause it fits tight and uses a metal pin to hold it in place. That plastic nub always broke on the stock bushing.

Stay away from springless high steer arms.

 

[zuk88]

I like using a bronze bushing simply cause it fits tight and uses a metal pin to hold it in place. That plastic nub always broke on the stock bushing.

Stay away from springless high steer arms.

Your talking about the spring eliminator kit to stay away from? The arms I was looking at are from Artec.

 

[zuk88]

I like using a bronze bushing simply cause it fits tight and uses a metal pin to hold it in place. That plastic nub always broke on the stock bushing.

Stay away from springless high steer arms.

Are you talking about the Reid racing bronze bushings?

 

[Bunk1]

Are you talking about the Reid racing bronze bushings?

I used a different brand but they all work the same. Installing the bearing is a pita cause its tight and you need to keep it aligned for the pin as you install it.

Ive always used blue torch fab highsteer arms so I don't know about the artecs. I like the idea of the spring being a bit of a cushion for really hard hits. The adjusters on springless arms tend to strip out.