dana 300 vs. toyota dual cases

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

selling the half tons from under the tacoma and goin with a set of chevrolet cucv tons...
currently gathering parts, but still debating a few parts..

specs are going to be 2.7 4cyl and 4:56 in the axles.
soo..
go with my auto or keep the 5 speed? clutch may be helpful to compensate for lack of ponies...
then my major delima..

I can do a doubler using toyota top shift gear drivens for around $500 bucks
or.. do a dana 300, but would have to go ahead and do the 4:1 kit... not sure what kind of money were talking here...

delima.. if i upgrade later to a small block, will the toy cases hold up, or would I be money ahead to do the 300...
Thanks guys..

P · Apr 20, 2009

Short term cheaper to do the yota cases

Long term , what are you going to end up doing ?

Spend money once and be cool with what you have, or spend money several times..... its your call.

laughing1 Hell yesterday you were talking , lightweight with all yota running gear. Make up your mind before you start spending monies !

J.A.B · Apr 20, 2009

I am a firm believer in " do it right the first time " if funds allow of course. Most times being a cheap ass only coast you more money in the long run.

Just my .02

Cubby · Apr 20, 2009

I like a 300 with the right parts. JohnG beat the piss out of the one he had in the purple Jeep and so far as I know never had a problem .

Problem is building a 300 isn't cheap.
lo max 4:1 is $600
32spline front is $175
32spline rear is $250 - 390 depending on the flavor
Dana 300 $200 (I've got one I need to sell if you nee one)
Rebuild Kit $150

~ $1400

Still cheaper than an atlas or stak,

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

P said:
laughing1 Hell yesterday you were talking , lightweight with all yota running gear. Make up your mind before you start spending monies !

haha yea, that was before my front end blew up.... sellin the half tons...
basically gonna end up with $2500 and the taco sittin on bare frame..
so its either finish parting it... drivetrain and truggalicious setup

or.. keep buildin on what i have...
and looks like with budget itd be cheaper to expand on what i've got...

BamaTJ · Apr 20, 2009

J.A.B said:
I am a firm believer in " do it right the first time " if funds allow of course. Most times being a cheap ass only coast you more money in the long run.

Just my .02

Great advice. Save up and drag the build out longer if you have to to make sure you get the right parts. I built my jeep about 3 times it cost a **** ton more doing it that way. I think you would be fine with either. You would probably only need the gears in a D300, HD outputs probably not needed with a 4cyl. Yota doubler will give you great low range choices since your gearing is gonna suck. You going bigger tires right? 4.56's with a 4cyl is gonna be a dog, especially with the weight of tons.

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

yea, plannin on the 42 range...

and it will def be a dog w/ the 4 banger and the tons on 4:56's
thats why my reduction in the tfer case is so crucial..
gna be more of a finess rig than a wooom pow for the time being...
thats why i was juggling the idea of leaving my manual vs, the auto (got both on hand) for side step clutch drops.. :driving:

and again, its not an issue of monies and being cheap.. just wondering if the duals would be lower reduction than the 300 w/ 4:1 kit...
prolly should search that myself, but being lazy..

J.A.B · Apr 20, 2009

The dual yotas would be a lower redcution than the 300. I want to say it is something like 4.7 or 5.7 to one with the doubler.

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

yea, thats what i was thinking..
and many gearsets available for more gearing...

several of the yoyo guys i've talked to say those cases w/ the cryoed 23 spline outputs are bomb proof...
prolly the route im gonna go...

now... auto or stick.... remember the lack of woo pow, lol

BamaTJ · Apr 20, 2009

Yeah the dual reduction would be low, then through in a lower gearset to one if you need lower. I really think a d300 with an auto is a dog if you wanna crawl with it. Stick with the yota stuff. Honestly if I were in your shoes, I would keep all the yota stuff and ditch the truck frame. Get a small chassis built, use your yota stuff and go with it on a set of 37" reds. It would be a lightweight trail killer. Put that auto in it you would make trails look stupid around here

Check out Low Budget Pimpin on PBB, that think is sick and is stupid cheap.

P · Apr 20, 2009

Manual with dual yota's if your not going to SBC it... Like you said, you can always get a deeper gearset down the road for those case's as well ( even though thats silly for the type of wet terrain we typically see... )

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

Matt O. said:
Stick with the yota stuff. Honestly if I were in your shoes, I would keep all the yota stuff and ditch the truck frame. Get a small chassis built, use your yota stuff and go with it on a set of 37" reds. It would be a lightweight trail killer. Put that auto in it you would make trails look stupid around here

the small chassis and ditch the truck frame is def. in the future..
and i kno its cheaper to do it the first time... but really cant front an entire build right now..
so im just looking at this as a parts collection build that i'll be able to have a good time in untill full on buggy status is achieved....

had entertained the idea of yota axles and sticky 37's instead of tons and fotytwo's.
Got a million options goin thru my head, and just trying to narrow it down...

SPOA87YJ · Apr 20, 2009

I'd go with the dual yoters and the manual trans. Do the tons and 42s as well if you keep the taco. My .02

I've got a doubler in my Jeep with 4.10s in the diffs. Around town I prob get 3 yards/gallon and its not a speed demon BUT as hard as I try to jackass in it I still haven't gotten in trouble. Its all in what you want, mines a trail rig first, driver second. I will say you can shift your crawl box when driving around town, makes life alot better.

BamaTJ · Apr 20, 2009

Dude for real, start trimming fat on that thing until you can build a small two seat chassis to put your goods under. Check out all the yota buggies in Nc, they are sick. Lightweight rig with sticky tires will do really well around here, especially if you know it is not a hill dragster and wheel it that way. If I ever built a buggy for pure function, just to fawk around with, it would be a small chassis, with yota gear and a souped up 4cly import car motor on 37" reds. It would way less than 2,000lbs and would make **** look stupid. I keep trying to push Jamie this way also. It would be sick.

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

like i said.. small lightweight chassis is in the future.

Still think im gonna sacrifice the weight of tons for the durability...
so it it. 5 stick and duals, tons and 42's...
hopefully throw some cool parts at the 2.7

when the parts are gathered i'll strip the skins and the goods and use teh rest as a yard ornament... :dblthumb:

blacksheep10 · Apr 20, 2009

I quit reading after someone said build a 300. :gtfo:

duals and 5 speed /Thread

CheapJ7 · Apr 20, 2009

haha.
the master has spoken... :dblthumb:

John Galbreath Jr. · Apr 20, 2009

Cubby said:
I like a 300 with the right parts. JohnG beat the piss out of the one he had in the purple Jeep and so far as I know never had a problem .

Problem is building a 300 isn't cheap.
lo max 4:1 is $600
32spline front is $175
32spline rear is $250 - 390 depending on the flavor
Dana 300 $200 (I've got one I need to sell if you nee one)
Rebuild Kit $150

~ $1400

Still cheaper than an atlas or stak,

Other than, broke rear output, went 32 spline. Then broke front output, went 32 spline. Never another problem, except the LoMax 4:1 kit is bad about jumping out of front low on the coast side going down hill. Most of them do this, they sent three fixes, only long term solution I found had Atlas on it!!!!