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Draining catch cans

redneckengineered

Trailer Park Panty Dropper
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Oct 13, 2008
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I'm looking for an easy way to drain my catch cans without taking them apart. I know the fitting I have in mind is out there but I must not be looking in the right places. I basically just want a tee hose barb fitting to install in line and the bottom part of the T could be open/closed for flow. It needs to be small and fit 3/8 hose. I don't need a big ass ball valve with handle or anything.

Something like this but the bottom is an operable drain
 

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I use a 1/4" ball valve mounted vertical. Not real fast but fairly small

And btw, screw a hose barb into the bottom to clean up the stream coming out so it won't make a mess. It flows right into an old oil bottle easily.


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!
 
crawlin85cj said:
I use a 1/4" ball valve mounted vertical. Not real fast but fairly small

And btw, screw a hose barb into the bottom to clean up the stream coming out so it won't make a mess. It flows right into an old oil bottle easily.


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!

Yea I saw yours at Dixie Run but my cans are routed differently. All the various things I vent (engine, trans, steering, etc) run to the bottom of the catch cans and the can vents out the top through another hose. I'm waiting to install the T in the bottom hose and just be able to open the bottom port when I want to drain.
 
I have mine the same as BJ. Just a small ball valve from Lowes. Seals wells and put a barb on the end so i can put a hose on it and drain to bottle or whatever is laying around. Works well, but if you dont have the space im sure McMaster has a petcock. We all know how much you love cock.

Look at the Drain-Handle Brass Stop Cocks

http://www.mcmaster.com/#petcocks/=zhq3j0
 
74_Chevota said:
I have mine the same as BJ. Just a small ball valve from Lowes. Seals wells and put a barb on the end so i can put a hose on it and drain to bottle or whatever is laying around. Works well, but if you dont have the space im sure McMaster has a petcock. We all know how much you love cock.

Look at the Drain-Handle Brass Stop Cocks

http://www.mcmaster.com/#petcocks/=zhq3j0

I do love the cock but none of those really fit what I'm looking to do.


wicked_sten said:
i used a npt tee with hose barbs and threaded one of these in the bottom
UPGRADE-097-2-2T.jpg

That would work except I don't see any hose barb tee fittings with a female NPT on the bottom
 
redneckengineered said:
Yea I saw yours at Dixie Run but my cans are routed differently. All the various things I vent (engine, trans, steering, etc) run to the bottom of the catch cans and the can vents out the top through another hose. I'm waiting to install the T in the bottom hose and just be able to open the bottom port when I want to drain.


Drill and tap another hole in the bottom


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!
 
al1tonyota said:
Just curious why are you running in to the bottom? Coolant overflow is the only thing that will pull the fluid back out of the resi?

My experience is running them into the bottom makes them less likely to spill in a rollover. The drawback is it severely limits the ability to vent off pressure and heat. That's why I run bottom entry straw cans, I get the best of both worlds.


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!
 
crawlin85cj said:
My experience is running them into the bottom makes them less likely to spill in a rollover. The drawback is it severely limits the ability to vent off pressure and heat. That's why I run bottom entry straw cans, I get the best of both worlds.


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!

How does it change the fact they won't or shouldn't spill in a rollover coming in from the bottom vs top? If it's going into a can it needs to be vented regardless of entry point. If you enter the top and vent with a brass filter in the top with a drain in the bottom it shouldn't leak more than a drip or two and would be drainable?
 
Brass filters are not my favorite by any means. I've tried them at work and threw them all in the trash after a short period. They clog up too easy in dirty environments.

The top, side bottom vent hose routing in Andrew's picture is my preferred method, it practically can't spill. I do like to run the lines a little further down and back away from the engine. There are lots of ways, just my experience that short of a straw can this is the most effective way to contain fluids.


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!
 
1TONZR2 said:
not totally off topic, but what cans are those that you are using? I am going to need a set soon.

Brian

They came from WOD. On another note, they have some really nice quick connect plumbing for them that they didn't have back when I got them hence the black hose and brass fittings. Tennessee Mojo is plumbed with the same cans but new plumbing and it is slick. I would ask them for it.
 

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