FJ60 build

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been hiding on the forum off and on for awhile and I'm bored today so I decided to drag my build thread over here. Anyway:

Here is it before when it was SUA and on 36s with a TBI 350/4speed/toybox to splitcase:

then I sprung it over and got it 39s and a th350

 

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that led to a d60 with full hydro steering, rear d70, 203/205 doubler, etc.

I ended up tearing down my th400 to swap the output shaft to work with the 203 input:

To make everything work for a 203/205 I had to get the right output and adapter.

removed the pump bolts:

I reached up with the back of my ratchet and ever so gently popped out the pump:

next I pulled the pan:

which exposed the valve body:

and the roller thingamagig:

speedo:

then pulled the valve body... the suggested way was to do them evenly:

this was in one of the valve body tubes:

valve body on the table:

and what's underneath:

lots of little paths and steel balls:

removed the servo:

 

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now it got interesting... I tried to pull everything out in chunks.

First was the foward clutch which came out pretty easy:

and out

and then the direct clutch. it was also pretty easy to remove:

I forgot to take a picture of removing the band but basically there is just a little pin to move and then it come straight out...

then the intermediate clutch. Kinda tough to see but there is a snap ring that you have to move past the little stops:

then the biggest pain... the center support snap ring.

but I won:

then I took the planetary out and removed the snap ring and switched the shafts:

planetay with the long shaft

the guy on pirate clamped down to remove the snap ring so I did the same thing:

the two shafts compared:

new shaft installed:

the mess:

 

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then it was time to pull the fj gear:

pulled the toy junk... adaptor, toybox, splitcase. I

I got the d60 somewhat postioned under there:

 

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then my NWF shipment came... 1 ton/th400/203/205 junk is BEEFY. I LOVE IT!

 

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some more pics of the th400 going back together and some other progress pics...

trim lines:

Bumper looks like it'll be for sale soon:

Front shot:

started taking the H1's apart:

 

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Got the shift kit installed. I went for the "street" shift which is supposed to be the most firm. I hope that it doesnt end up breaking my teeth when it shifts:

Primed:

Painted:

 

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started trimming the front fenders for more room:

 

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little more progress with swapping some of the 205 stuff.

Case:

Tear down:

front output out:

old vs new 32 spline:

Rear tailshaft assembly

this needed to come out

off:

I remembered to account for the fatty needle bearings (15)

apart:

Removed the shift rail pins:

then frustration set in... I could not get the shift rail out. Before I knew it and had the BFH out and started pounding on it. Still nothing. I decided to take a break and quit pounding on it and see if there was a better solution to getting it out.

 

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coilovers showed up:

 

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then I got the ol' sawzall, plasma, and grinder out to start to remove the old brackets:

cutoff the old exhaust:

ThenI put some more work into swapping the front output shaft to the 32spline:

needle bearings are a pain:

buttoned up:

started putting the 203 doubler stuff together:

ARB came... Randy's ring and pinion is cheap and fast!

 

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More on the 205:


Shift fork installed:

then I had to back up... forgot to install the short input shaft first:

then the fork and sliding gear:

together:

snap ring installed on other side:

then the shift rail pins by lining up the forks and the holes in the shafts:

then installed the bearing and snap ring on the output shaft:

the stuff for the output shaft:

it was easier to prop up the case to drop it in:

looking down:

then the thrust washer:

then the high gear:

then dropped in the shaft:

backside:

rear output bearings...

some paint:

doubler bearings for the 203:

 

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finished up the doubler.

I didnt bolt it together yet because I'm not sure about how I'm going to clock it yet. I need to set the front end up first... this stuff should help with that.

 

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Got beef? 2 3/8th .500 wall DOM.

 

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gotta figure this out too... it just kisses the link but with more weight on the tire I imagine that'll bubble out on it more:

updated link calc which is pretty close to real world:

 

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hydroboost master came:

springs on:

the springs actually match the cruiser too:

 

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bit more progress today with a couple other cruiser heads:

Cut out the plate for boxing the frame

after a lil' trimmin:

tacked:

other side:

tank dropped:

intermission with Mike's bad ass 60 with a turbo 4bt:

cut the holes for the sleeves (rear shackle mount).

 

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some more eye candy...

so finally I got off my rear end a bit (after a little rock band with the family) I spent a little time on the cruiser:

my cut off wheel is soon becoming my favorite tool. I'm committed now.

If you look closely you can see that I got the sleeves welded in and the spring hung. The front perches aren't fully burned in yet.

Got to figure out the fuel cell:

 

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started with doing a bench mockup of the cable shifters:

AND.... its even off the rear jack stands and on its own to rear tires again!!! If you look closely you can see the space from the frame to the jack.

Rear shackle angle:

yeah... so it got a little tight in the garage when its sitting on the 42s so I improvised with my hot knife (I had no choice the garage door couldnt go up or down) My wife is going to kill me if she find out before I can get to Home Depot:

Some other shots at ride height which is actually lower than when it was on 39.5s (frame height is about 26inches):

Underneath... pinion angle is about right but I havent burned the axle perches yet.

The front end is pretty much mocked up but I'm waiting for a couple new brackets that'll work better from Ballistic Fab... so until then I'm going to tackle the crossemember:

 

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I got everything tacked up on the 3link to cycle the suspension and check for binding and most important that it all fits. Honestly I think in the end a 4 link up front would have been easier. I plan to mark everything and pull it apart. Then I'll add some scab plates in the necessary spots and fully weld everything up. Anyway pics:

Driver side at almost full droop:

Passenger at full bump with driver almost at full droop:

full bump gets pretty cramped. The harmonic balancer comes about an inch or so of the panhard.

Ram gets close to the pulley but still has a bit of wiggle room:

Passenger at droop:

I ended up with about 5 inches of bump @ 26 inches at the frame. Not too shabby for a full frame'd rig with leafs in the rear. Its actually lower then it was with the 39.5s and SOA (running 42's now).