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Foa valving question

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Joined
Aug 25, 2011
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Looking to buy some Foa coil overs and this being my first time buying or running. What's my valving should be? ? All toyota 85 extra cab , back halfed, with a little exo cage. Your basic yota build. Straight up trail rig. :fish:
 
Im gonna give you an engine low to the ground, extra big oil pan, that'll cut the wind from underneath ya, it'll give
30-40 more horsepower.

Im gonna give you a fuel line that'll hold an extra gallon a gas.
I'm gonna shave a half an inch off you and shape you like a bullet. I'm gonna get you primed, painted and weighed and you're gonna be ready to go out on that race track, you hear me? You gonna be perfect.

Sorry, it's just what I thought about when I read the question :)
 
The new FOA's loom really nice and seem to be getting much better hands on reviews. With the fine threaded body and black anodizing options I think they're a worthy option. I've been looking at them as an option for my rig also.

If I were going to race or even consider it I might think more about the higher end shocks, but my uses are the same as yours...just trail riding.

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Re:

I have also been looking into these and talking to a few dealers who sell a lot off them. Dave's said they sell about 8 of them a week and have for about 3 years and in that time have only had 6 come back. I think for a budget trail rig they may be a good option
 
http://www.profendersuspension.com/20-remote-res-coilover_p_10.html

Have you considered these?
 
The idea of gettingal a pair of 2.5" shocks with springs shipped for the same price I'd pay for a pair of 2.0" without coils or shipping makes that an easy choice.
 
You can buy a cheap burger, but then you have to eat it!

I have been running KING for over 6 years exclusively with zero performance or support issues. That's worth a few extra bucks in my book.


2010 Jim's Garage 4429
2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
 
I've had a little bit of experience with FOA, so I'll share my thoughts. A good friend of mine has been racing on them for three years. They can be made to work, but you will have do a lot of work to them yourself. Don't rely on FOA.

First off, like everyone else said, they leak. We had one shock that leaked on the trailer before it ever saw any dirt. The first time I actually tore one down and saw the internals the problem was obviuos. There was aluminum shavings all in the oil. At first we thought it might be something broke that caused all the debris, until I looked at the new internals that FOA gave us to rebuild it with. I'm a machinist by trade, and I would be ashamed to have my or my shops name on the machined parts that FOA was using. It looked like they had the local tech school kids building parts for them.

It was obvious that whoever did the machine work made no attempt to deburr anything. This was the source of the aluminum chips that were in the oil causing problems. The threads had huge burrs on them that would break off and imbed themselves into the seals on the piston. In turn this scars up the bore of the shock body making it trash and putting even more shavings in the oil. The internal o-ring grooves had sharp burrs that would cut the O-rings that seal the shaft causing leaks. Also, the surface finish was nowhere close to spec for an o-ring groove.

In order for them to work you need to tear them down when they are brand new and go over all the machine work to clean it up. I can't comprehend why FOA couldn't figure this out.

On several occasions we had the end blow out of the external reservoirs.

If you want them tuned, double check it yourself. Check to make sure you have the correct shim stacks in all shocks.

However, I will say that all of this was on the old style shocks. I haven't personally seen the new design, but FOA claims to have resolved these issues.

Shocks are expensive. I would take everything into consideration before you make a purchase. thumb.gif
 
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