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Ford 9" gear pattern

LiftedZuki

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
437
Location
Kennewick, WA
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This is no shims, .012 was too much and smallest i had.

This too deep or run it,both sides are nearly identical..just feel weird no shims
 
Its centered nicely (heel to toe) but its way to hard on the pinion tooth to flank of ring contact. See the hard line at the bottom of the tooth. You want that mesh coming and going on and off smooth, not on edges.
 
Pinion's too deep...Note the half moon shape with the round edge of the pattern on the outer edge; Find someone with some pinion flange shims and move that sucker out about .004-.006"...then reset backlash and recheck pattern... Also, I have seen some folks use shims under the large pinion bearing on a 9" pinion, which is totally unnecessary as they are typically shimmed at the flange...
 
Dont let the importance of preload be forgotten while chasing perfect patterns. :awesomework:

This, as your pattern won't mean **** if you don't set proper pinion preload each time you change depths..and also make sure carrier preload is good too each time...
 
Ford 9" doesn't require that...

The shim is between the pinion retainer housing and the third member housing.

Or pinion support housing/etc whatever people wanna call it.
 
actually you are right :smack:, there are so many different diffs out there its hard to keep all their steps in my head for each one!!! :haha:
But, if there were shims under the inner pinion and they were removed, then you do need to check pinion preload. :awesomework:
 
They do make a crush sleeve eliminator kit for the 9"...wasn't sure if you had it or not...
 
I just did my 9" about a few weeks ago, here's teh rough specs I used for both bearing preloads. Once I completed the pinion pre-load I replaced with the solid spacer kit.
 
Crank those side adjusters/carrier bearing as tight as you can.

Stick to pinion preloads given, but get those spanners as tight as you can.
 
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