General Toyota knowledge / help wanted

TreeClimber · Oct 30, 2014

I'm lacking knowledge on Toyotas, so I'm hoping for some basic help. I have a 1991 Toyota pickup. 3.0 liter. 5 speed. 4x4. Extended cab. Bone stock. Lots of miles.

My questions are; how large of a tire, can the IFS front end reasonably be expected to survive?

What are the budget options for lockers, without going to a welded or spool? Are there 'lunchbox' lockers available? Are the factory Toyota lockers an option? Can I add a locker or limited slip to the IFS front end?

Are there upgraded shafts for the IFS front end?

Any other aspects I should be aware of, if I wanted to take this rig on relatively hard trails without truly converting it a wheeling rig?

Thanks in advance.
TreeClimber

toyodaaddict · Oct 30, 2014

TreeClimber said:
I'm lacking knowledge on Toyotas, so I'm hoping for some basic help. I have a 1991 Toyota pickup. 3.0 liter. 5 speed. 4x4. Extended cab. Bone stock. Lots of miles.

My questions are; how large of a tire, can the IFS front end reasonably be expected to survive?

What are the budget options for lockers, without going to a welded or spool? Are there 'lunchbox' lockers available? Are the factory Toyota lockers an option? Can I add a locker or limited slip to the IFS front end?

Are there upgraded shafts for the IFS front end?

Any other aspects I should be aware of, if I wanted to take this rig on relatively hard trails without truly converting it a wheeling rig?

Thanks in advance.
TreeClimber

The 3.0 is a turd, im sure your aware.

Im sure others will disagree but I wouldnt expect ifs to hold up well to anything bigger than 33's.

Yes the taco E lockers are an option for the rear. For lunch box style lockers look into aussie lockers or spartan. do what you want with the front end but locking a ifs front wont make it any stronger

.

If you want to run hard trails dont wast your time just sas it from the start.

Im looking to pick up a 87-89 4runner for a dd/expo rig . My plan is 3rz,dual cases,rear e locker, open front, 31-33'' tires, bumpers, sliders and maybe a 2'' ome ifs lift not sure on that yet.

monstaru · Oct 30, 2014

What has helped me immensely is the Toyota bible on Pirate. Ver. 2.0 is available in the Toyota section at the top of the forum.
pretty much has all of what you asked and more. Also, there are upgraded shafts for it, but the cost to benefit ratio of suspension build up and true gain is not really worth it .
cheers

Donkeylips · Oct 30, 2014

TreeClimber said:
I'm lacking knowledge on Toyotas, so I'm hoping for some basic help. I have a 1991 Toyota pickup. 3.0 liter. 5 speed. 4x4. Extended cab. Bone stock. Lots of miles.

My questions are; how large of a tire, can the IFS front end reasonably be expected to survive?

What are the budget options for lockers, without going to a welded or spool? Are there 'lunchbox' lockers available? Are the factory Toyota lockers an option? Can I add a locker or limited slip to the IFS front end?

Are there upgraded shafts for the IFS front end?

Any other aspects I should be aware of, if I wanted to take this rig on relatively hard trails without truly converting it a wheeling rig?

Thanks in advance.
TreeClimber

I'd agree, a 33 is really about the limits of the Toyota IFS. While IFS is great for on road, it wasn't designed for the offroad abuse you want to give it. You can upgrade to a locker in the front. I know folks that have had good luck with a lunchbox locker in the front but I would still be hesitant to drop one in mainly because the reliability remains with the strength of the carrier. Being a 7.5" ring gear there isn't a whole lot of material to keep **** in one piece. I'm sure you already know all this stuff about lunch box lockers. Other folks have dropped in a limited slip and also had good luck. It mainly helped in the snow but will still likely suck in the rocks. RCV can make just about anything and I do recall see a kid running in EMC class at KOH with a gutted 4Runner with IFS. It had RCVs and an 8" diff in the front. I think he finished. I'm not trying to discourage anyone from playing with IFS.

This is the best way I can explain it:

-Rock Crawling
-IFS
-Budget

Pick 2.

Mark m. · Oct 30, 2014

Your stock rear axles are way stronger than after market ones.

CHOP SHOP · Oct 30, 2014

Had a buddy wheel for YEARS on ifs with 35 inch BFG mt tires. He rarely had a failure.

Then he put 36 inch TSL Swampers on it. All hell broke loose. It broke about every other run.

But I know all the hardcore mofos with mad wheeling mojo can SNAP an ifs with just ONE wink of a 31x10.50, but with a brain and a winch my buddy never missed a weekend because he had an "icky IFS" truck!

Use your melon and a light foot Tony. :beer:

TreeClimber · Oct 30, 2014

CHOP SHOP said:
Use your melon and a light foot Tony. :beer:

I know that.

How lifted (or lack therein) was his truck? Can a stock suspension handle 33s?

Also, what's involved with adding an factory electric locker to my truck?

CHOP SHOP · Oct 30, 2014

TreeClimber said:
I know that.

How lifted (or lack therein) was his truck? Can a stock suspension handle 33s?

Also, what's involved with adding an factory electric locker to my truck?

Stock elocker is a pile of unservicable ****. Get an ARB if you want a selectable. I would opt for a lunchbox or splurge for a detroit.

A stock height rig will need some trimming but a 4 inch lift wont affect the front geometry at all because it drops ALL of the steering and axles.

A lift will give you NO more clearance under the diff. If a lift is installed, have the lift brackets welded to the frame after it has been aligned but before wheeling it. They like to move around with woods impacts.

TreeClimber · Oct 30, 2014

CHOP SHOP said:
Stock elocker is a pile of unservicable ****. Get an ARB if you want a selectable. I would opt for a lunchbox or splurge for a detroit.

A stock height rig will need some trimming but a 4 inch lift wont affect the front geometry at all because it drops ALL of the steering and axles.

A lift will give you NO more clearance under the diff. If a lift is installed, have the lift brackets welded to the frame after it has been aligned but before wheeling it. They like to move around with woods impacts.

Can't afford an ARB.. So a lunchbox locker, some fender trimming, a used set of wheels and tires, replace the bumpers, and lose the running boards. Hmmm.... this might work. :awesomework: And I should source a spare set of front shafts and hubs.

CHOP SHOP · Oct 30, 2014

TreeClimber said:
Can't afford an ARB.. So a lunchbox locker, some fender trimming, a used set of wheels and tires, replace the bumpers, and lose the running boards. Hmmm.... this might work. :awesomework: And I should source a spare set of front shafts and hubs.

No hubs needed. Juts spare front shafts, and idler arm, an extra diff to cannibalize for small parts like axleflanges and spiders. Also keep a pair of tierods in your toolbox to.

Most of these parts are very easy to find and very cheap, so enjoy a low stress, low budget wheeler.

Absolutely keep the drivers headlight out of the water or you will kill a 3.0 quickly.

Nothing wrong with a good condition 3.0.

CHOP SHOP · Oct 30, 2014

Why you beatin up that poor truck anyways? :scratchhead:

skinny_pedal · Oct 31, 2014

Ball joint spacers are a very easy way to clear 33's on an ifs truck. Cheap to:awesomework: I'd stay away from a true locker in the front, stick with the limited slip. I'm all for the 3.0. Way more power than the 22r/re

TreeClimber · Oct 31, 2014

CHOP SHOP said:
Why you beatin up that poor truck anyways? :scratchhead:

Long story. I'll share it with you over a beer some day.

Donkeylips · Oct 31, 2014

I also wheel an IFS Toyota. It's the same diff in the front as yours. Just different suspension and axles. I run 35s. I break CVs all the time. I try really hard to keep from breaking CVs but I also try to do more than what the truck is really capable of. 5 speeds are easier to feel when the truck is getting bound up though.

I currently run an factory e-locker in the rear. It would be easier for you to buy an ARB. Less ass pain, stronger, and it would probably cost a little less. The locker itself isn't too costly but the actuator is what breaks and is what cost the most. I'll be hopefully be selling all my crap in the next 6 months.

Kurtis

CHOP SHOP · Oct 31, 2014

skinny_pedal said:
Ball joint spacers are a very easy way to clear 33's on an ifs truck. Cheap to:awesomework: I'd stay away from a true locker in the front, stick with the limited slip. I'm all for the 3.0. Way more power than the 22r/re

Ball joint spacers and cranking up the torsion bars are what kill CV axles.

The added angle is not nice to them.

Glenn · Oct 31, 2014

Didn't Joe Chacon run 34s on his IFS truck at one time?

I had a Detroit True track on the front of my old truck. As long as you keep both tires on the ground, it is a lot better than open.

WHITE TRASH1 · Nov 1, 2014

The best part of the 3.0 is the fact that a 3.4 bolts directly in it's place. That said, if it's still running then don't touch it.

The front end is good for 33's and if you run a narrow tire on stock ifs wheels all you'll have to do is hammer back the pinch weld on the firewall. The best bang for the buck is to weld the rear and either grab a tru trac for the front or find an MKII supra limited slip and install it in the front diff.

TreeClimber · Nov 1, 2014

WHITE TRASH said:
the front or find an MKII supra limited slip and install it in the front diff.

Can you elaborate?

skinny_pedal · Nov 1, 2014

TreeClimber said:
Can you elaborate?

Mid 80's early 90's Toyota Supras had a 7.5" independent rear diff. Your ifs diff up front is also 7.5". Taking a limited slip from the rear of a supra would bolt into your front diff.

Glenn · Nov 1, 2014

skinny_pedal said:
Mid 80's early 90's Toyota Supras had a 7.5" independent rear diff. Your ifs diff up front is also 7.5". Taking a limited slip from the rear of a supra would bolt into your front diff.

How common are those going to be? Those are going to be 20 years old if you can find them.