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??Good deal on a high steer for d44??

Skid Mark

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??Good deal on a high steer for d44??

Looking for anyone who knows of or has a good deal on a high steer kit for a
d44


Thanks Adam
 
will your arms work on an 8 lug chevy d44??


If its got properly drilled and milled flat-tops. Sure.

let me see what I got and what I might need. These were custom arms made for a little more angle in (to clear higher offset wheels) and a little more angle out (miss-drill).
 
I got a drag link and tie rod with 1 ton ends for sale. I can machine the drag link/tie rod to length for cheap.
 
I can do everything too. Mill the knuckle, get all the parts, change the box (chevy), press in new balljoints, etc.... I have done about 20 of these start to finish. I don't have a packege price because some people supply used parts and some people get all new stuff.

Mill the knuckle $50
Bent Metal Customs crossover arm $75
new balljoints $?
tie rod with 2 jamnuts $?
2wd box (chevy)$?
(ream or new?) pitman arm $?
tie rod ends reuse stock ones or chev 1 tons? $?
PS fluid $?
install labor $150


I can mill your knuckle and supply you the crossover arm, Bunk can make you the tie rod, if you get all the other parts and installed everything, that would be the cheapest route.
 
Last edited:
the cheapest route is to=

50 crazy daze milling
75 bent metal arm
12.50 for a gm ten bolt tierod at pullapart
20 for a hunk of tube at floyds
total = $157.50

Now take the pullapart tierod (get a good tight one) and cut in half. It needs to be the ten bolt one, not a D44 one. The ten bolt one is the hollow one with two short TRE unlike the earlier solid one.

now sleeve it with a size bigger dom from floyds and you have a $32.50 draglink that has one ton size ends and can be replaced for 20 each at the parts store.

You more than likely have a crossover style steering box. (cheroke boys, Im going to asume its a fulsize axle going into a cheap cherocar build).

If so get a newer dodge ram pitman arm and have dean ream it out for the 7/8 gm TREs. Arm is like 7 bucks at PAP and milling is less than 20 (if not Ill do it for 20).

:beer: Keep it cheap:beer:
 
Check whatever pitman arm you end up with for the right spline diameter and indexing (which can be filed out). Some of the Dodge pitman arms seem a little short from splines to tie rod hole which will reduce the turning radius. Check whatever tie rod ends you use and make sure they do not bind when the axle is fully drooped and fully flexed, different ends have different amounts of angle travel.

:kiss:
 
Check whatever pitman arm you end up with for the right spline diameter and indexing (which can be filed out). Some of the Dodge pitman arms seem a little short from splines to tie rod hole which will reduce the turning radius. Check whatever tie rod ends you use and make sure they do not bind when the axle is fully drooped and fully flexed, different ends have different amounts of angle travel.

:kiss:

The 96up style dodge arm has a long throw. I have used jeep and other arms and the dodge one is the longest that drops down. And no the tierod is not on top of it like old dodges. Scouts are longer, but no drop. Splines on the dodge arm are dead on to. The tapered hole needs to be reamed out a little is all.

Thats what was on that green older dodge at the tree run that you drilled the knuckle on for me.:beer:
 
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