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Tech & Fab
Help with spring rates on c/o
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<blockquote data-quote="TacomaJD" data-source="post: 590320" data-attributes="member: 1780"><p>Because you have a longer lighter spring that's easier to compress, instead of a longer heavier spring that's harder to compress. It may not make as much of a difference as I am thinking, but think of it as if you have a 24" softer spring, a 6" heavy spring, **** wouldn't act right. I know that's not a realistic scenario, it was just an example.</p><p></p><p>Also, as a quick fix, you can always adjust the stop ring farther down on the shock body to catch the heavier spring earlier in the travel, unless you've already ran out of threads to move it any lower due to the shorter lower spring than what's recommended.</p><p></p><p>Initially, I had 100/200 on the front of my Toyota and exchanged the upper 100# spring for a 150 and it was right then. It was way too soft before, axle truss hitting oil pan on hard hits, etc. (stationary bump stops didn't work too good lol). a 50# heavier spring makes a significant difference, but if it was me (just me) I'd opt for a 225 or 250# lower spring that was 16" and a 14" upper that was 175 or possibly even 200. </p><p></p><p>Spring rates will vary between similar rigs due to the angles at which they are mounted, but I don't think that's the case here. From that pic, it looks like you've got your preload cranked way down. Looks to me like ya need heavier springs and that valving is not to blame. But hey, I'm still a rookie shock man so my thinking is probably wrong as usual <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/ROLF.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":rolf:" title="ROLF :rolf:" data-shortname=":rolf:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TacomaJD, post: 590320, member: 1780"] Because you have a longer lighter spring that's easier to compress, instead of a longer heavier spring that's harder to compress. It may not make as much of a difference as I am thinking, but think of it as if you have a 24" softer spring, a 6" heavy spring, **** wouldn't act right. I know that's not a realistic scenario, it was just an example. Also, as a quick fix, you can always adjust the stop ring farther down on the shock body to catch the heavier spring earlier in the travel, unless you've already ran out of threads to move it any lower due to the shorter lower spring than what's recommended. Initially, I had 100/200 on the front of my Toyota and exchanged the upper 100# spring for a 150 and it was right then. It was way too soft before, axle truss hitting oil pan on hard hits, etc. (stationary bump stops didn't work too good lol). a 50# heavier spring makes a significant difference, but if it was me (just me) I'd opt for a 225 or 250# lower spring that was 16" and a 14" upper that was 175 or possibly even 200. Spring rates will vary between similar rigs due to the angles at which they are mounted, but I don't think that's the case here. From that pic, it looks like you've got your preload cranked way down. Looks to me like ya need heavier springs and that valving is not to blame. But hey, I'm still a rookie shock man so my thinking is probably wrong as usual :rolf: [/QUOTE]
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