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Hydro Boost and Wilwood Calipers

I have heard both sides of the brake line size theory. I have heard that line size doesn't matter so long as the instantaneous fluid movement is not restricted. There is no appreciable fluid movement within the lines, it is primarily pressure transmission, which takes place instantaneously and equally at all points in the system, thus no advantage of a larger line. Here is a snip from Billavista's brake bible:

"Note that ¼" DOES NOT "provide more volume" to actuate the callipers more quickly as I have read more times than I care to remember. The MC piston's bore and stroke determines the fluid volume displaced and therefore the pedal stroke required to apply the brakes. The tubing is sealed and full – its diameter has nothing to do with it (within reason) and you certainly won't notice the difference between ¼" and 3/16" – except maybe the placebo effect coz your buddy said so!"

There are multiple other sources you can find via Google that say the same. Multiple that say the opposite.

On my last buggy I had 1/4" lines because people told me it was better. At some point I ended up switching to 3/16 lines, I forget why. It had something to do with 1/4" fittings not being available for a modification I was doing. (This was with pinion brakes, so it was less of a hassle than wheel brakes.) I noticed no difference in braking.

For my new buggy I consulted some specialty brake company, I forget who. The name started with a B, it was the last name of two brothers who owned the company. This company was recommended to me by mr blaine on Pirate, who is a very opinionated, yet knowledgeable, brake guy. It came as no surprise when I called them that they were also very opinionated. But they were vehement about line size not mattering. In fact, he said that 1/4" / -4an could be a hindrance since it has greater propensity to swell under pressure and therefore waste energy.

I'm not saying that I believe one or the other school of thought, just putting it out there for consideration. My current buggy has HB with -3AN lines and huge, beefy 1-ton calipers and 13" vented rotors. It stops on an absolute dime with almost no effort, I love it. It does weigh probably 3x what anything with Wilwood calipers weighs though. I appreciate crawlin's willingness to discuss this topic and hope that I didn't put him on the spot too bad by asking.

The pics of that booster setup look to be about the same as my Chevy 1-ton setup, not anything more compact. Maybe its just an illusion of photography. I've seen lots of HB setups and they are all pretty much identical in dimension, all the way from passenger cars to medium-duty trucks like Kodiacs, doesn't matter Ford, Chevy, or Dodge. The HB unit on my '05 Dodge tow rig looks identical to the one off of a '78 Chevy CUCV that is in my buggy as well as another I have seen out of a Lincoln Towncar, my old '04 Ford F-250, and my Dad's '12 Dodge 3500. If you look at HB parts suppliers you will find that the rebuild kits are universal. One kit for all applications. I'm sure there are slight variations among them but it leads me to think that whatever HB unit the American manufacturers are using is pretty much universal. (I have no experience with foreign makers.) Also, WOD's web site does not mention their HB kit being any smaller than any others.

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/10872/Hydroboost-Brake-Assembly.aspx

Their booster appears to be identical to my '78 CUCV booster. The main advantage I see to their kit is the brake pedal and bracket it comes with. I fabbed those on my own for my current buggy. They are kind of a PITA to work with because of the way the booster attaches to the firewall with a huge 8-sided nut and a key. Many people I know simply get the OEM bracket and weld it into their firewall.
 
Lots of good tech here! Thanks ;D


Would anyone happen to know what the displacement is for these Toyota calipers(79-86)? ??? It was said they are a bolt in replacements for the Willwoods so I'm curious as to wither or not the displacement is close to the same as the willwoods.

I'd always prefer to run parts store parts if possible and comparable to the $$$ stuff.

Also in the interest of keeping this tech going how would I go about matching/ designing my next braking system? Below are the parts I'd like you use but I'd prefer to make sure they will all work well together before building/ buying anything that I don't already have lying around.

Willwood manual master cylinders 1 for the front 1 for the rear (I already have 1" and 7/8"from my last buggy but can replace with two ¾" if that's what's needs)
I'll build the pedal myself but was planning to base it off of the willwood stuff. One pedal for the front and one for the rear with a cross over bar to lock them together like a tractor has.
The Toyota Calipers listed above.
Custom non vented rotors made by ½ of a standard vented 1 ton rotor
Nylon line (I know it might not be ideal and I may lose some braking power but the cost and ease of repair out way the losses for me.)
 
Blase said:
Lots of good tech here! Thanks ;D


Would anyone happen to know what the displacement is for these Toyota calipers(79-86)? ??? It was said they are a bolt in replacements for the Willwoods so I'm curious as to wither or not the displacement is close to the same as the willwoods.

I'd always prefer to run parts store parts if possible and comparable to the $$$ stuff.

Also in the interest of keeping this tech going how would I go about matching/ designing my next braking system? Below are the parts I'd like you use but I'd prefer to make sure they will all work well together before building/ buying anything that I don't already have lying around.

Willwood manual master cylinders 1 for the front 1 for the rear (I already have 1" and 7/8"from my last buggy but can replace with two ¾" if that's what's needs)
I'll build the pedal myself but was planning to base it off of the willwood stuff. One pedal for the front and one for the rear with a cross over bar to lock them together like a tractor has.
The Toyota Calipers listed above.
Custom non vented rotors made by ½ of a standard vented 1 ton rotor
Nylon line (I know it might not be ideal and I may lose some braking power but the cost and ease of repair out way the losses for me.)

The toyota calipers for thin solid rotors (79-85) have smaller pistons than the wilwoods. I remember that from when I looked all the specs up.

All the specs on piston size are available from Rockauto for the yota calipers and Wilwood for their calipers.
 
TBItoy said:
All the specs on piston size are available from Rockauto

I thought that too but now can't find them there. I am looking for a 1980 caliper, perhaps other years work better?
 
i am changing my MCs this weekend from 3/4 to 5/8 .I have a very hard pedal and crappy brakes .I will let you know if smaller bore helps
 
patooyee said:
I thought that too but now can't find them there. I am looking for a 1980 caliper, perhaps other years work better?

I looked at an 84 caliper

getimage.php


43mm/34mm bore


Quote from Wilwood website:
http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList.aspx?subname=Narrow Dynalite
wilwood dynalite "narrow"

The caliper is available in 1.75, 1.62, 1.38 and 1.12 inch piston bores for 1.25, .81, .50 and .38 inch rotor widths.
 
Cole said:
I had a buddy take one of the pedals out and now all I have is a 1" MC running all 4 brakes. It will stop the buggy but you have to push the pedal all the way to the floor.
Just to clarify, is the pedal soft going to the floor and the brakes suck, or hard going to the floor and they suck?
 
bgredjeep said:
Just to clarify, is the pedal soft going to the floor and the brakes suck, or hard going to the floor and they suck?

soft
 
Cole said:
Thanks for all the good info, definitely gonna try the MC change since they are pretty cheap.

You gonna add in the second MC again? Because the soft part is one problem, the going to the floor part is another. Smaller MC is only going to make the going to the floor part worse. It sounds to me like you may need the extra displacement from the second MC to solve the going to the floor part. (If I am understanding the timeline of modifications correctly.)
 
Yeah, I've never dealt with the dual master setups. Typically if you are fixing a soft pedal you would use a larger MC for more volume to firm the pedal. I presume the smaller bore w/ dual MCs gets the added pressure and since it's only running 2 calipers has the effect of added volume as well.
 
Right. With two MC's each MC is only filling 2 calipers instead of 4. It's one method of getting enough pressure with full manual brakes while also getting enough volume.

Think about it like this: OEM's use big MC's to fill big, heavy, sturdy, safe calipers. Since you get less pressure with big MC's you need the boost to help with the pressure, so OEM's use power assist. Wilwood makes manual brakes. To get enough pressure with no boost you need small dia. MC's. But with small dia. you can't fill a very big caliper very easily. So you need more displacement without increasing MC bore and loosing pressure. There's only two ways to do that. You can increase stroke, but then the pedal needs to go through the firewall. Or you can use an additional master cylinder to double your overall volume.

Another way to increase pressure is to increase your pedal ratio. But then your pedal travels further / through the firewall and is longer and needs to stick through your floorboard.

Really, OEM's use two master cylinders also. They're just built into one bore with two pistons in the same bore. But we're complicating things now.
 
I agree with JJ's last post, Im running dual mc's on pinion brakes, 1 pedal and mc for each caliper and have the best brakes and pedal feel I've ever had.Hard as Dolly Pardons breast!!
 
Elliott said:
I agree with JJ's last post, Im running dual mc's on pinion brakes, 1 pedal and mc for each caliper and have the best brakes and pedal feel I've ever had.Hard as Dolly Pardons breast!!
You are only supplying one caliper per mc that's why it's a hard pedal and your brakes have gear reduction since its on the ds so that's why it stops! If you had that ratio on a wheel brake it wouldn't work good at all!
 
I took Elliot's post as just an example of supplying fewer calipers per master cylinder.

Pinion brakes are very forgiving in terms of MC choice for the reasons that a1tonyota said though.
 
Exactly. I'm saying more fluid per caliper per single stroke.And I wasn't talking about stopping power I was referring to hard pedal with no sponge.
 
noracin said:
Cole , did you ever fix your brakes ?????

not yet, just got new thicker rotors in the other day. Hopefully gonna put them on today and see if that helps any. I have been so busy I haven't had time to touch the buggy.
 
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