I have no idea what I'm doing aka the worst Ultra4 4400 build thread on Earth.

Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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Made some trim for the dove tail. Got the drivetrain positioned for measurements. Didn't realize these weren't posted.

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Are you legit building this on the easement just outside of your house? I'm impressed. I feel like all of my stuff would get stolen over night if I did something like that.

Yeah I don't keep my tools outside though I bring them in at the end of the day or lock them up in my shed.

It's also not my house. I built my buddies cage in exchange for letting me use his backyard and he paid for some of my tubing. After I finished his cage in his backyard it somehow turned into the easement... Not about to ***** though as it's been parked there for 2 months while I was waiting on parts to be delivered and they're putting up with a cut up Jeep outside the house.

I don't have 240v at my house and they have a flat yard which is why I wanted to do it there. Normally I do all my work in the street in front of my house.

My only complaint about the spot is I get "fans" stopping by several times a day that don't understand what personal space is telling me about every irok z they had in their youth or to ask if I want to rebuild their astrovan rear axle or if I want to rebuild their wj trans or if I want to change their dirt bike tire or if I want to go to their house and replace their ball joints.

I just quote them a ridiculous price. Ball joints? Sure $500 labor/corner. Axle swap? Sure $500 labor. Some get its my I don't want to do it price. Others get upset and complain which I find hilarious.

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Not as big of an update today as I'd have liked. I'm going for my CDL, but was waiting on a replacement social security card to come in. I got it yesterday so spent about 7 hours at the MVC today paying for my CLP/Written test.

Got a few tubes burned in and then ran out of wire. Then broke my 4th HF notcher. Eventually they'll stop giving me warranty replacements and I'll invest in a quality one. Normally they break the arbor where the hole saw screws onto. This time the threads pulled out of the clamp.

Ill pick up another 12lb spool when the welding supply shop is open in the morning, and get the notcher swapped out.

I've been welding completely around the joint but I've seen some cages where they leave a 1/4" unwelded, I've been told this is to prevent blowout from air trying to leave the tube. Can anyone vouch for this or should I keep doing what I'm doing?
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Weld the tube all the way around.

I like it, reminds me of when I got started. Your drawing seems different than what your building. To me there's way too much tubing in the drawing. But I'm nobody and nothing special so take that with a grain of salt. With that said what size tube are you using? And have you looked over the rules for 4400?
 
Weld the tube all the way around.

I like it, reminds me of when I got started. Your drawing seems different than what your building. To me there's way too much tubing in the drawing. But I'm nobody and nothing special so take that with a grain of salt. With that said what size tube are you using? And have you looked over the rules for 4400?

You are special to many people. You are just misguided on the Ford part......
 
Weld the tube all the way around.

I like it, reminds me of when I got started. Your drawing seems different than what your building. To me there's way too much tubing in the drawing. But I'm nobody and nothing special so take that with a grain of salt. With that said what size tube are you using? And have you looked over the rules for 4400?
I believe he's running 2" for most or all of the structural stuff.
 
Yes I'm running 2" as I expect this to break 4400lbs and anything that's under a 30" span can be 1.75". I've read the U4 rules and there's nothing saying you can't have a partial body for 4400 class.

Yeah Idk what I was thinking. I think I just got excited after buying bendtech and put tubes everywhere I could fit one. If found it easier to just design single parts on it. I'm sure as I keep building and getting experience Ill be able to make a full assembly design with it.

Right now I just have the engine/trans sitting on top of the lower tubes. I think I'm going to push the chassis back a bit as there is a lot of clearance between the first cross member and the drive accessories. I plan on making the front cross member flanged so engine removal will be easier. Right now the trans would need to come out through the top or out with the engine.

Top rail interferes with the thermostat housing. I'm going to have to Google and see if they make one the comes out at a different angle. Tho the top rail isn't welded yet so I still have time to cut down the vertical tubes to lower it. I will also need to make some changes to the pass header down pipe to dodge the upper rail.

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I was able to fix my HF notcher's clamp with a M12x1.75 bolt. As the threads only pulled off the T handle while the hole was still good.

Leaving Fastenal I spotted this fun day happening.
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Thanks that will come in handy but it's not them that are hitting its the larger rad hose barb. I just have the thermostat housing flipped in the attached pic.

You can get straight fittings either set up for AN fittings or typical radiator hose
 
I think they even make one's that you can clock any direction in case you really need to get specific about where you need to route it.
 
I wasn't sure how I was going to tie in the lower body section to the tube chassis.
Figured 2x6 rockers were a simple solution. Will make doing the boat sides easier too. Along with stiffening the body some.

Passenger sides done welding in just need to trim it. Not happy with the angle of the drivers side but ran out of day light. I welded the inside of the drivers so I'll just cut the outside tacks and use the jack to bend it up and level it out. First time using 0.23 wire and it ran buttery smooth welding the thin body metal to the 3/16" wall 2x6. Start/stops aren't the best but getting better

I need a long 32 spline np205 input shaft and a th400 -Ford round 6 bolt np205 adapter. I'll most likely just buy Offroad Design adapter unless someone points me in a better direction.

https://www.offroaddesign.com/4l80e-ford-np205-adapter-housing-1.html
They also sell the input shaft but they are out of stock until 12/20ish. The other option I have is using that adapter with the th400 output shaft that sticks out 4.5" instead of my 2.5"er. Those output shafts go for $50-100 on ebay vs $300 for the long input shaft.

Is replacing the output shaft in a th400 while following a book/video realistic for someone who has never done more than a valve body swap/shift kit?

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Man, you got great neighbors, cause their is no way your putting that away every night after working on it.
Putting away? Not sure what you mean by that. ;) It's sitting on jackstands. Also not my house but I've made friends with most of the neighbors on the street. I think I know and talk to more of the neighbors than the people who live there. I keep it covered with a car cover so looks any other truck (with 43s sticking out) at night and I don't make noise before 10am or after 6 or 7pm.
 
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Put away as in put back in shop/garage out of site. It is always good to have good neighbors. My last neighborhood, you had to have garage door closed except when it it, not park in driveway if possible etc. I knew very few of my neighbors by sight and spoke with fewer. My current neighbor is like the one you live in now. I know most of them and having a project or two is not an issue.
 
OK so I capped off the 2x6" rockers with 1/4" plate. I don't have any complaints about this $230 Mophorn plasma cutter. Has been great so far. I've since learned I need to speed up so I'll get less slag with it.

I got the b pillar hoop bent up today and made the lower mounts for it. I think I should get the a pillars done next so I can make the horizontal support so I have something to build the engine cage off of.

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I also bought springs for the coilovers I had, which were both bought off Hardline members. They're 125lb over 300. They were only $20/ea so I figured why not for mockup.

Im still looking for another set for the rear.

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This should be ***led “the right way to build an XJ”

I agree, between this XJ and the one MoonlightRacing is building I think all XJ's should follow suit. I've always liked XJ's and especially ZJ's, but always been afraid of the lack of a frame on them.
 
Currently battling lack of frame issues In all four corners. I even ripped the front leaf spring pocket off the “frame”. It’s grrrreat.
I agree, between this XJ and the one MoonlightRacing is building I think all XJ's should follow suit. I've always liked XJ's and especially ZJ's, but always been afraid of the lack of a frame on them.
 
It would put me too close to the steering wheel/pedals or put the tubing too close to my helmet area but that would look pretty sweet.
I feel you there. I'm 6'4". So whenever we built mine, we moved it wayyy back. And honestly, I should have gone further.
 
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