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Intermittent 22RE will not start

GRW

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
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500
Location
Everett WA.
Intermittently our 86 Toyota truck will not start, it has power (radio, heater, lights, exc) but will not turn over at all (no clicking, nothing). Once it does it starts fine (truck is driven by my daughter). I replaced the electronic portion of the ignition and thought I had solved the problem. But it’s still not starting every once in a while. Last night it did it at home and I noticed the ECU (ECM) was clicking. What’s the chance it’s the ECU? Does anyone sell rebuilt/reworked ECU’s? I believe the auto & manual trans ECU’s are different, correct?
This is an 86 2X 22RE with an automatic.

Thanks Gary
 
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Intermittently our 86 Toyota truck will not start, it has power (radio, heater, lights, exc) but will not turn over at all (no clicking, nothing). Once it does it starts fine (truck is driven by my daughter). I replaced the electronic portion of the ignition and thought I had solved the problem. But it’s still not starting every once in a while. Last night it did it at home and I noticed the ECU (ECM) was clicking. What’s the chance it’s the ECU? Does anyone sell rebuilt/reworked ECU’s? I believe the auto & manual trans ECU’s are different, correct?
This is an 86 2X 22RE with an automatic.

Thanks Gary

You sure its the ecu clicking and not the relay right above it?? Sounds like bad connection on the starter to me (excitor wire) black wire that plugs into the top of the starter. Id start there
 
Take a test light and check to see if there is power getting to the starter signal wire when in the crank position, if not I'd lean toward the neutral safety switch like Mark said but be sitting down when you buy. I'd make sure the signal from the ignition switch is getting to the neutral switch before buying one tho... If there is a signal at the starter, then tap the side of the starter with the butt end of a screwdriver while still in the crank position-if it starts, then it's most likely just the contacts in the solenoid end of the starter....super simple to replace, and about $10 in parts at a rebuilder...
 
Are you getting ignition power to the starter?
99.5% of the time with out an issue.

You sure its the ecu clicking and not the relay right above it?? No...
Sounds like bad connection on the starter to me (excitor wire) black wire that plugs into the top of the starter? See above

Maybe the neutral safety switch on the trans?
Very possible (did not think of that one) any idea if they start acting up slowly?

Take a test light and check to see if there is power getting to the starter signal wire when in the crank position, if not I'd lean toward the neutral safety switch like Mark said but be sitting down when you buy. I'd make sure the signal from the ignition switch is getting to the neutral switch before buying one tho... If there is a signal at the starter, then tap the side of the starter with the butt end of a screwdriver while still in the crank position-if it starts, then it's most likely just the contacts in the solenoid end of the starter....super simple to replace, and about $10 in parts at a rebuilder...


The problem with testing is getting it to do it for me.
I have only been around once when it is acting up....
(It had an issue at her work, went down fired right up)

So far:
Replaced the starter (it was old tired and rattled).
Replaced the electronic portion of the ignition (had that issue on another car, similar issue fixed the problem).


What about putting a bypass on the neutral safety switch (so she can give it power if it will not start) and see if that is the problem?
Again the problem is getting it to act while I am available (very intermittent).

Thanks for the input
 
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It's generally one of two things. The wire going from the solenoid, to the starter. It has no sealed ends on the starter end. So corrosion gets in there. Another is the female end on the clip is not contacting properly. Stick some needle nose in there and tighten them up.

I had an issue at one time. And I carried a jumper wire of sort, that would clip on the battery, and had a monetary switch inline.
 

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