Intrest in F550 knuckles?

JDodd · Dec 10, 2016

RCV is getting close to fully release their big bell axles for the Ford hub so who is thinking about runing them?

I have designed some fabbed knuckles around this setup and i'd like to hear some input from the guys looking at running these.

redneckengineered · Dec 11, 2016

Never hurts to have options. I know you've seen my build on here with the Reid Super kingpins. I know WOD makes a fabricated knuckle but they may be phasing it out since they released a big knuckle under the Crane brand. It would all boil down to price I would think as well as making it easy for joe homebuilder to get everything welded up properly without a bunch of fixturing and whatnot.

JDodd · Dec 11, 2016

Your build is what got me thinking about it, and from an engineering stand point the Ford bearings is far superior over the traditional 60 or rockwell hubs.
I'm going to get a set made for testing and then I'll know an exact cost but these will only be offered as a assembled kit, the jigs to make these are almost as important as the design.

cdemart2 · Dec 11, 2016

Make it steer 50 degrees and use the factory lower ball joint top and bottom and I think you've got a winner. Do the models give you any idea of weight?

jk101 · Dec 11, 2016

I would be interested. As long as there is no balljoints.

Bebop · Dec 11, 2016

cdemart2 said:
Make it steer 50 degrees and use the factory lower ball joint top and bottom and I think you've got a winner. Do the models give you any idea of weight?

+1

JDodd · Dec 12, 2016

I am going to stay away from ball joints because of strength, cost and serviceability. The way I have them now if a bearing was to fail the assembly is still captive so you won't have your wheel coming off. Another reason is you can easily replace the bearings in the field with just a wrench and a hammer.

Steering I can easily make them have 50 degrees of steering if that is wanted, right now I have them physically limited to 45 due to what RCV recommends.

Weight is about 57lbs so you'll save 13lbs over a dana 60 setup. I'm not sure on the height of the 60's but these are 14.25" over all height.

redneckengineered · Dec 12, 2016

JDodd said:
I am going to stay away from ball joints because of strength, cost and serviceability. The way I have them now if a bearing was to fail the assembly is still captive so you won't have your wheel coming off. Another reason is you can easily replace the bearings in the field with just a wrench and a hammer.

Steering I can easily make them have 50 degrees of steering if that is wanted, right now I have them physically limited to 45 due to what RCV recommends.

Weight is about 57lbs so you'll save 13lbs over a dana 60 setup. I'm not sure on the height of the 60's but these are 14.25" over all height.

I like it. I think the new 05+ UBs are the wave of the future personally. And if you think about it, how many aftermarket knuckle options are there that allow you to just bolt the UB right up? It's just Reid right know as far as I know.

jk101 · Dec 12, 2016

JDodd said:
I am going to stay away from ball joints because of strength, cost and serviceability. The way I have them now if a bearing was to fail the assembly is still captive so you won't have your wheel coming off. Another reason is you can easily replace the bearings in the field with just a wrench and a hammer.

Steering I can easily make them have 50 degrees of steering if that is wanted, right now I have them physically limited to 45 due to what RCV recommends.

Weight is about 57lbs so you'll save 13lbs over a dana 60 setup. I'm not sure on the height of the 60's but these are 14.25" over all height.

So I would be interested in a set of knuckles and a set of cups if you made them. Price dependent of course !!

redneckengineered · Dec 12, 2016

More companies need to start offering weld on UB cups for rear applications. Nothing like being able to carry 1 spare for front/rear and converting to 40 spline would be a SNAP! I eventually want to go this route with my rear axle.

https://www.weaverfabrication.com/product/2005-unit-bearing-cups/

jk101 · Dec 12, 2016

redneckengineered said:
More companies need to start offering weld on UB cups for rear applications. Nothing like being able to carry 1 spare for front/rear and converting to 40 spline would be a SNAP! I eventually want to go this route with my rear axle.

https://www.weaverfabrication.com/product/2005-unit-bearing-cups/

I seen those. But for $600 I would machine my own set. Spidertax sells a set for the smaller UB for $250.

JDodd · Dec 12, 2016

I think you are right about these bearings becoming more popular, they are priced kinda high but once you buy all 60 or rockwell parts I think you'll come out cheaper. And a big selling point is you're getting a hub with a 5.25" od bearing, that is much larger than you'll find anywhere else and under most wheeling conditions will last the lifetime of your buggy.

I'm going out on a limb but I would say that the UB is lighter than a 60 hub and spindle. If someone has one laying around I'd like to hear the weight.

If these flanges to run them on the rear are wanted I can get a price on machining them too along with some drive flanges.

mcutler · Dec 12, 2016

This is the weight of the spidertrax 99-04 unit bearing (not the ultimate which didn't require a drive flange) for reference, drilled for 6 lug.

Matt

redneckengineered · Dec 12, 2016

jk101 said:
I seen those. But for $600 I would machine my own set. Spidertax sells a set for the smaller UB for $250.

Yea that price is ridiculous.

johnnycash · Dec 12, 2016

I would definitely be interested in a set. Building a 14 bolt as we speak(going slow) lol

cdemart2 · Dec 12, 2016

JDodd said:
I am going to stay away from ball joints because of strength, cost and serviceability. The way I have them now if a bearing was to fail the assembly is still captive so you won't have your wheel coming off. Another reason is you can easily replace the bearings in the field with just a wrench and a hammer.

Steering I can easily make them have 50 degrees of steering if that is wanted, right now I have them physically limited to 45 due to what RCV recommends.

Weight is about 57lbs so you'll save 13lbs over a dana 60 setup. I'm not sure on the height of the 60's but these are 14.25" over all height.

Part of the appeal to these outers is that there is no kingpins. I'd rather have ball joints that I never need to mess with, vs kingpins that are easy to service, because they need it throughout the season.

Those are nice weight savings. Do you have a price point ballpark?

redneckengineered · Dec 12, 2016

cdemart2 said:
Part of the appeal to these outers is that there is no kingpins. I'd rather have ball joints that I never need to mess with, vs kingpins that are easy to service, because they need it throughout the season.

Those are nice weight savings. Do you have a price point ballpark?

Maybe I'm jinxing myself but I've literally never had to touch my kingpins or bearings once they were greased and setup properly.

I've also run balljoints in a 60 and while I'm not one of those people that think balljoints are crap, I did have to replace them a time or two. I'm a believer in the superduty balljoint knuckles though, especially for a budget build.

JDodd · Dec 12, 2016

Im going to use 1" spherical bearings, the same as the spidertrax knuckles. I also used these when I designed EOR's knuckles and to my knowledge there hasnt been any problems.

For steering would yall be happy with a plate steering arm? This will be a cheaper and weigh less than the trational high steer arms.

JDodd · Dec 12, 2016

Right now the price is going to be $2500 for me to make one set, but if people want them I can make 10+ sets I would be able to get that price down even more