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Kid got a toy

I gotta say a big THANKS to you guys and and the responce to my kid.
Dad is a Jeep guy so he needs to turn somewhere.:D

I am hoping to take him on his maiden wheeling voyage soon and I think the more he does it the more he will love it.
Thanks again.

My Junk was 7 years in the making. I hope Chris's takes way less time
joop.jpg
 
Bonestripper said:
I gotta say a big THANKS to you guys and and the responce to my kid.
Dad is a Jeep guy so he needs to turn somewhere.:D

I am hoping to take him on his maiden wheeling voyage soon and I think the more he does it the more he will love it.
Thanks again.

My Junk was 7 years in the making. I hope Chris's takes way less time
joop.jpg


Nice transfer case:rolleyes:
 
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zig80toy said:
This could definitely be the cause of the rattling noise your hearing. Try to get in there with a pry bar and separate the two...



hell you don't need a pry bar just get your little fingers in there and pull,:rolleyes: its only popcan material....


And your right, there are so many different ways you can go. But you have to start somewhere. Start out small that way if you don't care for the sport your not wasting alot of time and money. crank up the torion bars get a set of shackles for the rear and buy some used 33"s and go see if it's something you might like to do. Wheelin is not for everybody, and if you don't like it you've still got a nice DD.

There is nothing wrong with ifs i've got a buddy that wheels the **** out of his, he breaks an axle every now and again but he can replace it in under 10 minutes. and thats with 35"s
 
When I bent mine back, I used a ratceting tie down from the lip on the bed beck to the tail gate area and just ratcheted it back into place.

~T.J.
 
Ok so I figure it will take around 2500 dollars to do a complete SAS with the gears set and 35" tires. How much would it cost to crank up the tortion bars and run 33"s? I figure I might as well try it as long as its not too close to the 2500, because I need to learn how to wheel anyways right?
 
FREE!!! Well, plus the cost of rear shackles (50$). It'll make the ride a little rougher, but it will lift it about 2". Then just buy a set of cheap 33's

Brent
 
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83yota said:
FREE!!! Well, plus the cost of rear shackles (50$). It'll make the ride a little rougher, but it will lift it about 2". Then just buy a set of cheap 33's

Brent

Don't I need custom gears for the 33's though?
 
It may feel a little underpowered with the 22re, but not too bad. Correct me if im wrong guys, but shouldn't it have 4.56's stock with the 22re? It should atleast have 4.30's? If so it'll be fine only stepping up to 33's.

Brent
 
4:10 in the truck and I had 32 on my 4runner and it did great. you will not have to do geas for 33
 
Hmm, and it lifts it about 2 inches? I think I might want it a little higher than that, so I guess my next question would be is it possible to reverse everything I did later on when I have the money for SAS and still convert it to SAS and get 35's on there eventually? So I guess what I'm saying is Crank up my tortion bars, buy some used 33's and then get rear end shackles and then in 5 or 6 months when I can afford SAS, would I still be able to do SAS on it?
 
Absolutely. All theyre telling you to do, is adjust part of the suspenson on the front (the torsion bars), and replace the rear shackles with longer ones.

Doing the SAS, you would have to cut off all the IFS parts to include the torsion bars anyway.

You may want more, but all you need to clear the tires is the torsion bar adjustment and the shackles. If you really want that much more lift, then you might as well not do anything and just do it right when you can afford it with either an IFS lift, or SAS.

Personally, I think it sounds like you need to do a little more research on what things are, and how to do them before you decide what you are going to do. From the question about if you can still SAS the truck after adjusting the torsion bars, it makes me wonder if you understand what all is even necessary to do the SAS.

~T.J.
 
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What if I went like a 2 or 3" body lift instead? Would this be a bad idea or what? Then I do need the 4:10 gears right? I've heard some people say no, but others say yes... I'm confused at what to do when it comes to the gears.
 
Body lifts arent really the best way to do things in my opinion, but it might help the job out. I run a 3" body lift on my truck, and if it werent for that, Im sure my tires would rub a lot worse than they do now.

As for the gears... *deep breath & sigh*

Everyone is going to have a different opinion on how their truck drives, everyones engine is going to make different power, everyones engine is going to be at a different level of repair/tune/freshness, everyones truck has a different amount of crap in it/on it/built into it, so theyre all going to weigh different amounts, etc. Therefor, everyone will have a different opinion on if they need the gears or not.

NOW THEN, my personal opinion is this... Dont waste any money on the damn gears yet! IF, IF you decide to actually cram some 33s under the truck, it will feel sluggish compared to the stock tires, however, how much depends on the vairables listed above, along with tire weight, wheel weight, tire pressure, blah blah blah.

Getting gears for however much per set, then having them installed for however much is going to be a large cost if you dont do it yourself. Randys quoted me almost $500 PER DIFF for no lockers (I eventually just did the diffs myself after sourcing out the parts and doing lots of research). THEN, if by chance you DO SAS the truck, you CANT EVEN RE-USE THE FRONT DIFF! Now you have to have ANOTHER diff setup with gears to match the rear, but by this time, if youre going to run larger tires since youre doing the SAS, you are gonna want a DIFFERENT ratio, so now BOTH diffs have to be redone. Notice I didnt even mention any lockers in that example?

Plain and simple, its just turd polishing to throw money at an IFS truck if you even THINK that youre going to want more than IFS someday. Just my opinion though.

~T.J.
 
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I agree with 84Toyota about the gears, but think a body lift would be a great idea for you. However, i would just go with the 2" body lift. Besides cranking up the torsion bars, a body lift has got to be one of the cheapest ways to lift your truck. Its going to cost you, what, like 60 to 80 bucks (someone chime in here I forgot how much they cost). A body lift is also going to be a good mod for a mechanical rookie to install. Its very straight forward and hard to screw up. Unbolt the cab/bed from the frame, throw the spacers in, bolt it back up, your done. This is a much better ordeal to start with than an SAS, diff gears, etc... However, with the amount of rust you seem to have those bolts are going to make you work for it. Most of the people who dislike body lifts hate to see that gap between the frame and the body. And i will have to agree, it does look a little funny but i have a hard time seeing the disadvantages besides that. OOh, and i'm speaking about first timers here where money is tight.

My guess, is that you have 4:10 gears in your truck. And like 84Toyota said its not worth changing them out because dumping more money into that IFS diff is not a good idea in the long run.
 
Youngbone said:
What if I went like a 2 or 3" body lift instead? Would this be a bad idea or what? Then I do need the 4:10 gears right? I've heard some people say no, but others say yes... I'm confused at what to do when it comes to the gears.

OOh, just to clear that up. I dont know who you were talking to but the body lift has nothing to do with what gears you need. In your case as with most, tire size is the main factor in choosing which gears to go with.
 
4:10 are stock in toyota. you do not need to get new gears for 33
I have had a body lift on my 4runner and a will post pics of a truck with body lift after a car crash. I would drive it tell you have the money to do it right
 
I have a body lift on my truck, and I have the "gap" covers and crap, so you cant see a huge gap inside the wheel wells and stuff, much nicer looking IMO.

~T.J.
 

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