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KILLING LP D60s HELP!!!

You are not on the best axle, but you already know that. The 14 bolt will be better suited for the 43" sticky.

Teeth missing from one area like that usually indicates deflection. I'm willing to bet you are not pre loading the housing enough. The reason I asked your process, is that will sometime tell me what you might be doing that could be changed.
A setup bearing is okay. I do not use them for carrier bearing in any case. They will usually give different readings from real deal pressed on bearings.

That being said. How hard is the carrier to remove from the housing? Is it a mo fo, like got ya sweatin' you might not get it out or just a simple pry bar pull and it's out?

In a buggy that is simply trail riding or boucin' I set back lash tight. Somewhere around .004 to .005. This type of rig will never build enough heat to damage anything. They simply do not run long enough each time.
An Ultra 4 car or other race rig is totally different on back lash, but carrier preload is always always tight.

Give me a little more info about how tight the carrier is going in and out.

Rocky
 
WideOpenDesign said:
You are not on the best axle, but you already know that. The 14 bolt will be better suited for the 43" sticky.

Teeth missing from one area like that usually indicates deflection. I'm willing to bet you are not pre loading the housing enough. The reason I asked your process, is that will sometime tell me what you might be doing that could be changed.
A setup bearing is okay. I do not use them for carrier bearing in any case. They will usually give different readings from real deal pressed on bearings.

That being said. How hard is the carrier to remove from the housing? Is it a mo fo, like got ya sweatin' you might not get it out or just a simple pry bar pull and it's out?

In a buggy that is simply trail riding or boucin' I set back lash tight. Somewhere around .004 to .005. This type of rig will never build enough heat to damage anything. They simply do not run long enough each time.
An Ultra 4 car or other race rig is totally different on back lash, but carrier preload is always always tight.

Give me a little more info about how tight the carrier is going in and out.

Rocky
Its not crazy tight but takes a pry bar and some ass to get it to move. I usually tap the carrier in with a dead blow hammer.
 
It should be crazy tight to even consider living in the conditions you have it in.

If the case(housing) is flexed at installation and you have proper backlash, you're in good shape.

If the case is not flexed at installation it will give(spread) and move your contact out to the thin edges .....bam broken teeth.

To give you an idea. I use a brass hammer to knock carriers in. I don't believe a dead blow would do it. In a 14 bolt I use a punch and hammer to knock the spanners into place and create proper preload. On a 3rd member style like 9", 10" or drop out 14 bolt I will put my body weight against the spanner. I'm a fat bastard too.....

Rocky
 
We use a housing spreader. Never had any trouble. Just don't get crazy with it or you can damage the housing.
 
pachary said:
We use a housing spreader. Never had any trouble. Just don't get crazy with it or you can damage the housing.

I used to have a housing spreader 15-18 years ago and damaged a housing.....sold it off after that.

Rocky
 
I ain't seen that many missin teeth, since we fired our tire tire guy. I miss that guy, he was great when he showed up.
Even when everybody was running high pinion rears, most was proly 5 broke teeth. Then we realized hp rears didn't work that well. Cole is right you're pissing in the wind.
I use a 3-4 pound soft dead blow hammer, and I can swing that muther. If I can't hammer the carrier all the way in, then that is too much preload. In your case, I would preload the carrier so tight, that I would have to pull the carrier all the way in with the bearing cap bolts. Anti seize on the threads, and do it by hand. Good luck getting it back out. It'll take a couple BIG pry bars. Oh, forgot the most important thing, after the carrier is in and every thing is torqued. Right before you put the cover back on, bless it. Hail Mary, kumbaya, whatever floats your boat.
 
I was in the same boat as you. Just getting my HP60 swapped in now. Passenger drop and couldn't for a 14bolt. I tried all the tricks and nothing will make them last with a healthy v8 and stickies.

 
What is so different about a 14-bolt front that it won't fit where a 60 is? Pinion offset?
 
Re: Re: KILLING LP D60s HELP!!!

patooyee said:
What is so different about a 14-bolt front that it won't fit where a 60 is? Pinion offset?
That's what I've seen on my research. From the center of the pinion to the end of the casting the 14 pinion is about 3 more inches to the center if we're talking a passenger drop front. I don't think people run into that with a driver drop setup.

Drew Pate
Cordova Al
 
Re: Re: KILLING LP D60s HELP!!!

86tank said:
That's what I've seen on my research. From the center of the pinion to the end of the casting the 14 pinion is about 3 more inches to the center if we're talking a passenger drop front. I don't think people run into that with a driver drop setup.

Drew Pate
Cordova Al|


So I'm thinking where the pinion is located on a 14 bolt if you made it a Driverside drop front I would have driveshaft closer to the center of the vehicle?
 
FullThrottle89 said:
Passenger side drop puts driveshaft really close to oil pan depending on your setup. Drivers drop is further away from your oil pan.

Draggbody built his within an inch or two I thought? I would figure most could deal with that?
 
patooyee said:
Draggbody built his within an inch or two I thought? I would figure most could deal with that?
I don't see why not. If it clears by a inch then your good. You basically have to put the inner c against the housing to get max clearence
 
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