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Kind of dumb NP241-related questions

LightBnDr said:
Have you never broken the H-block centering pin/bearing inside the CV that keeps the unit centered under rotation?

You referring to the 3r?

I've never ran a CV before but the 1350 CV's that everyone else uses seem to be reliable.

FlatlandFSJ said:
All this random tech and not one person asks what the hell is JJ up to? I know I want to know :popcorn:

I'm building a little transaxle buggy. Not trying to keep it super-secret but at the same time I'm also trying to reduce the nay-saying. I'm taking pics as I go along and will post them when its done but it could take years to complete so I'm not going to draw out a real-time build thread. Hell, it may never be finished for that matter. Daughter takes precedence and if that means its never done that's fine with me. It gives me something to tinker on with minimal investment.
 
Was just curious about one piece at a times experience with his before I really threw my opinion out there.

We used to keep spare cv shafts from the junk yard when we mud raced or built something big on 44s to drive everyday and mud when it rained because the D shaft shop would rip our heads off. I spose I only broke 2 CVs in my life but have seen more than a handful broken.

When they break they make it real hard to safely make it back to camp w/o pullin the shaft. I have brought a shaft to a buddy one weekend broken soon after he got to the park.

It's just a somewhat complicated piece that serves a simple purpose but I would never run one purposely on a build. They actually give you less extreme angle and require trimming plus the one piece that breaks is NEVER carried at an auto parts store in the middle of a 3 million population city let alone a napa that opens at 9am and closed at noon at the trail. Lol

Just my opinions and experience. OPAAT has run his for 5 years with no probs. Who am I to say they are junk.

It's just one more thing to end a weekend whereas a busted joint won't always.

I wanna see pics of this ride
 
I tried to find some info on these drive flanges awhile back and didn't have much luck. I wanted to see if they were the same as the drive flange on a nvg241or. Was hoping to make a cheap cv rear for my jeep.


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FYI, I believe that my 3x3 measurement was slightly wrong and it is actually 4 symmetric holes on a 4.25" circle.
 
patooyee said:
FYI, I believe that my 3x3 measurement was slightly wrong and it is actually 4 symmetric holes on a 4.25" circle.


Something symetric???!! Is there unicorns involved. Lol!!!
 
On 241's, is there any point to getting away from the longer bell flange to run a SD 1350 CV shaft? I don't have a shaft yet, but was planning to swap in a short front output and get a 32 spline 1350 CV flange from High Angle to make it all work. The only thing I don't have is the 1350 flange, well that and a SD shaft...
 
^^^^ maybe to add an inch or 2 to your front D shaft length.

Sorry to hi jack your "241 question" thread patooyee
 
Since this is the most current D-shaft tech thread I'll post here :popcorn:

So In my quest for a high tech front setup in my buggy I went with a Ultra carrier bearing. The one I purchased came from Carolina DL but it is the exact same one that WOD sells. I have an atlas with 32 spline flange to a 1350 32 spline yoke with a 32 spline stub tacked in. This connects to another 1350 32 spline yoke to form a "slip" between the tcase (driveline poly mounted) and the carrier (hard mounted). Dont try this as it sucks. I tried it since the shaft between the case and the carrier has to be super short for it to fit. It vibrates like a son-a-bitch :****:

I believe what I need to do from here is switch to a single joint carrier..... so I'd have a 3 joint total shaft. The angle of the joint at the case in the pics below does not need to be as steep as it is now if I go to single carrier.

I called WOD to get one of their trick single carrier bearing shaft setups but they informed me that their source is no longer making them.

I have a lathe and can machine parts but I have less time that money at the moment and was hoping to get a rather quick setup.

Is there a reason I should also swap to a double cardan (I have a 2" male pilot and dual bolt patterns on my flanges one of which I know to be 4.25 diag.)

Any help would be awesome... part #'s to bearings to make carrier etc. I do have toasted 14B or D60 pinions I could machine to fit a bearing and weld to end of Dshaft tube



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Does anyone happen to know or have one to measure the dimensions of the bolt holes on an NP208 front flange as shown?

$_35.JPG


I'm guessing they are the same 4x4.25 but I don't have one to measure. I think some NP205's also come with this?

I found the bolt hole dimensions, they are the same, now I really need to know the length of the splines ...
 
Figured I would throw this in here. Needing to buy this sye for my 241c. With those 2, 1350 options, what route would you go? I was wondering if a front super duty shaft would bolt up to the flange. Doubt it is that easy...


 
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