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largest tire on yota axles?

NotSoPC

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Hay I was wondering what the largest size tire would be that a yota truck axle will hold up to? I know that it would need beefy parts in it but what is the largest that you would run? I dont have a heavy foot and still have the 4 banger (turbo 22r-te) with a 5spd. I was thinking 36s or 37s but wanted to see what you would all say. :awesomework:
 
No longs and no locker run whatever you want... It will still break occasionally but it'll hold together for the most part.

Longs and no locker fawkit, run some tractor tires ****'ll hold.

Longs and locker I ran 42" tsl's with no issues.

No longs and a locker, good fawking luck. Run bald 33's and stay off the stupid pedal.
 
depends on how much you build the axles. i know several people with fully built toyota axles running 42's. to run really any tire larger than a 33 with a locked front diff, these parts will eventually become necessary as you destroy all the stock stuff: longfield 30 spliners, longfield hub gears, ARP hub studs and possibly the 6-pin hub upgrade, ARP knuckle studs/ trail gear 6 stud knuckles and steering arms, a good locker (the lunchbox style, though a great option for most rigs, wont hold to 42s in my opinion), a high pinion 3rd member.

and after all that you're just gonna blow ring gears... but people somehow do it anyway. far more people run 40s on built toy axles. still.. this size is pushing the limit.

36/37s with a built front end and a light right foot is nearly foolproof. go for it.:awesomework:
 
Being that it is a turbo the rear end is one of the strong versions but I still plan on building both anyways. I want to run 5.29s and maybe a crawler box but still looking into that. I will be locking the rear but the front will stay open for now just to play it safe. At some point this truck will drive down the street at which point I will go to 14b/60 combo and full hydro with a 302 and start linking the damn thing but this wont be untill I want to do the nuts stuff like outlet mall. How much more stress is on the drivetrain with this being a stock turbo truck?
 
there is more stress on the drivetrain from the small amount of extra power and the lower (than standard 4cyl) 1st gear. the rear diff is indeed stronger than normal 4cyl. its not a dramatic difference. it's good to start out with just a locked rear because locking the front is a can of worms. locked front means breaking ****. so you gotta build and build and polish a turd until it is nice and strong. one upgrade just pushes the weak link down the line to the next. expect dropping at least 2k into a toy front when you're ready to drive locked and worry free. so for now, save for longfields and ARB, and keep the front diff open.

wait.. you have an 86/87 turbo truck? is it solid axle swapped yet?
 
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X2...Has the front been SAS'd???? If so, you should be able to run 35-36's if you are careful and don't bind it up on a root/rock (this being locked front/no Longs);Even If you're open, same deal, but I've still seen **** break in wierder situations with even smaller tires!
 
I've been running 36's on stock front end for a few weeks now with no probs,,,except for the J-arms,,,on my third one now..:redneck:
 
Blew my toy ring gears and rear axles to pieces many times on 37"s red Label Krawlers, but I was also running water in the front tires.
 
I run 35x14.50s and beat the piss out of my stock toyota front and locked rear being pushed by a v-8. no problems dont crank the wheel and throttle out though then you will have an issue.
 
you have an 86/87 turbo truck? is it solid axle swapped yet?

Yes I have an 86 Turbo truck and am pulling together the parts for the swap and just got the axle about a week ago. It also has the 5spd so it moves well, I think it may be faster then my 04 ranger with the 4.0 and a 5spd. I have also bobbed it 15"s and now the vary end of the frame and the custom cross member stick out just a bit:redneck:.
 
I have been thinking about maybe a 35-37 bogger or TSL but not too sure just yet. I really like the toyo m/t's but I dont really like the price. But then again offroad tire are not all that cheap anyways.
 
Is it a D/D or a wheeler?

Wheeler Use a off-road tire Interco Pit Bull Krawler something of that nature

D/D M/T Specificaly Good year MT/R or Toyo M/T
 
36-37", bigger than that and you need hub studs, hub gears, knuckle studs, and all the other bling parts. I have had all the bling parts and have seen them broken with 40's, but they did take a fair amount of abuse.
 
Is it a D/D or a wheeler?

It is a wheeler but will have to be driven to the trail and around town just for fun:redneck:. I like the howl of the true mud tires cause it drive the huggers nuts:flipoff:. I am kinda thinking a 36 or 37 12.5. It will only have a 4" lift along with the 2" body and some fender trimming. Will the 4.30 gears I have at the house work ok or should I just go with 5.29 and get it over with?:awesomework:

P.S. Thanks to all for your input:awesomework::beer:
 
i have run 37 irocks locked f/r with 529 and crawlerbox for over a year now and never had a problem. you need longs and arp stud kits in hubs and knuckles. anything bigger and the ring gears are weak. if you plan on staying in the 36-37 range go toyota. if u plan on bigger dont waste your time or money go with the 60/14. youll never get what u have into the yota axle back out of it.
 
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