Lets talk brakes again, and again, and again

JEEPKEVIN

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Jan 13, 2017
Messages
107
So time for a new chassis for my buggy. Wanted more over hood visibility, want better storage, want smaller profile with all the same parts, want to loose some weight. 5.3, 4L60, Atlas. Pic is of prior rig, king pin chevy 60 front, factory caliper, 14 rear with Lug Nut D52 rear caliper kit. About 4400lbs, shooting for 4k this time. Lower is all built, about to start firewall and upper shape. Time to allow for clearance.

Old brakes
Chevy King Pin Front caliper 8.9" piston area
Rear caliper D52 7.76 piston area
2005 home ported hydroboost with the same master

What I'm comparing to is one of my daily drivers, JK on SD 60 factory caliper and late model 14 with factory caliper on 40's and 5.38's. I run the JK8, 1 1/8th master and booster, brakes are totally cool. From Moab, Colorado, Chock Cherry, not a problem. Pedal throw is just a touch more than stock but not enough to matter.

Front caliper 8.72" piston area
Rear caliper 8.29 piston are

My thoughts are to just slam a JK8 booster kit in the buggy this go around.

I ran hydro boost in prior rig, brakes were good, but parts heavy, complex hoses, takes some amount of force from steering during heavy brake, took up space. Trying to simplify??

I talked to Wilwood on their options, 10-1 pedal, dual 1" masters, a simple light system but cost adds up. I am trying to watch my pennies. But good brakes aren't cheap, cry once.

Just looking for discussion, thoughts, words of wisdon.

Happy Holidays!! Hope you guys all get new sticky's under the xmas tree!!
 

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New build started Halloween weekend. I'm playing with tape shapes and drinking beer. Bottom done, skids, link mounts, rock sliders in place, engine, trans, tcase in place, axles and links back, just trying to think ahead on firewall design.

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Backstory on the first build. I bought the Goatbuilt Ibex lower subframe kit, skid plates and motor mounts. Called Radflow and ordered coilovers valved for my weight and shock angles. Buggy was super neutral on throttle and brakes, loved everything about he suspension, from KOH prerunning to AOP, to Clayton and RMR, was a great trail rig. Big ledges can be tough for short WB, but the technical stuff she performed well.

Stock LM7 5.3, 4L60, Atlas 5.0, CUCV 60/14 with 4.56, 43 SX sticky, 110" wheelbase, 18" at belly with 50/50 on the shocks. I kept the truck intake which is pretty tall, I shaved 6" off engine height going to the Summit low fab intake. I'm not a bouncer, just trail rider so the internet 15HP loss should be acceptable.

I think I was a bit low on belly, but the 50/50 travel on shocks was like driving my RZR. Same plans this time except bump to 20" on belly. Maybe 40/60 on shocks to grow to 112"/114" WB and change the rear for rear steer. At some belly height if needed.

I'm already down almost 4" on roof height by being more efficient and getting the seats right down on top of the atlas. I'm moving the A pillar closer to me, so I can see up the hill? Instead of leaning over like before. Undecided on front/rear radiator.

So this all started cause the wife kept *****n that she couldn't see over the hood. I get it, I liked the WOD design 8 years ago, pepsi curves for body lines but shorter for us.

Now, she wants to drive more, I like to build, seems like a cold/crappy time of year and a good time to get started on something.
 
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