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LQ4 LS 6.0 overheating issue

Blake G

Blake G

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 17, 2012
Messages
149
Location
Hillsboro,Tn
First off I have a LQ4 6.0 that is stock minus an aftermarket throttle body. It has a rear mounted griffin radiator combo with dual electric fans. It has 1.5 rubber coolant lines all the way back. I'm not by the radiator right now to get the size but my buddy has a 6.0 with the same radiator with no issues. Iv pulled the radiator and cleaned all the fins out and It appears to have plenty of air flow. The steam port vents are ran through the throttle body and ran back into the flat spot of the water pump. It will run fine all day until I do a long up hill pull. And iv never let it get over 230 I stop and let it cool down and it then cools down quickly. I measured my radiator and the radiator cap itself is about a 1/2 inch lower than the highest point which is the return hose coming off the waterpump? Is this really that big of a deal? Iv read billvista multiple times and get an idea of how it should be. I just ordered a flow kooler water pump and I'm going to be adding a bung into my radiator to return my steam vents straight to the top of it. Does it seem I'm on the right track?
 
Re:

Not sure if this could be a air pocket issue. but we just finished up a buggy with a 6.0 and rear mounted rad, and the only way we could bleed it was to back it up onto a hill and push a transmission funnel into the radiator, then fill the funnel to the top. This will increase the head pressure on the system and force out any air that may be trapped leading to your overheating

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Blake G said:
First off I have a LQ4 6.0 that is stock minus an aftermarket throttle body. It has a rear mounted griffin radiator combo with dual electric fans. It has 1.5 rubber coolant lines all the way back. I'm not by the radiator right now to get the size but my buddy has a 6.0 with the same radiator with no issues. Iv pulled the radiator and cleaned all the fins out and It appears to have plenty of air flow. The steam port vents are ran through the throttle body and ran back into the flat spot of the water pump. It will run fine all day until I do a long up hill pull. And iv never let it get over 230 I stop and let it cool down and it then cools down quickly. I measured my radiator and the radiator cap itself is about a 1/2 inch lower than the highest point which is the return hose coming off the waterpump? Is this really that big of a deal? Iv read billvista on here multiple times and get an idea of how it should be. I just ordered a flow kooler water pump and I'm going to be adding a bung into my radiator to return my steam vents straight to the top of it. Does it seem I'm on the right track?
Click to expand...

If your cap is lower than any part of your system it will never operate at peak efficiency until you get the air out

Going uphill only magnifies this issue
 
I see a lot of mention of those funnels but still don't know how they work or what they do. Why is it so important to not spill? :dunno:
 
Looks like it creates a seal at the rad cap location and adds several inches of height to your cooling system. Am I close?
 
Have you tried cracking open all of the steam ports? Will usually spit a lot of air bubble out of them. Just leave them opened up until you see straight water/fluid coming out.
 
That's it. You know how as the fluid starts to rise as it warms up and you are forced to put the cap on to keep it from overflowing. That point is right BEFORE the air pocket comes out. The spill free funnel gives additional space for the burp.


Sent using left thumb.
 
Re:

09zkrankin said:
Not sure if this could be a air pocket issue. but we just finished up a buggy with a 6.0 and rear mounted rad, and the only way we could bleed it was to back it up onto a hill and push a transmission funnel into the radiator, then fill the funnel to the top. This will increase the head pressure on the system and force out any air that may be trapped leading to your overheating

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I actually used a mac extractor to pull a vacuum on the system. I let it set for roughly 5 minutes without it leaking down. I then opened the valve and the other end of the extractor goes in a bucket full of mixed coolant. Its supposed to remove all air pockets and pull the coolant in.
 
jsg1113 said:
Have you tried cracking open all of the steam ports? Will usually spit a lot of air bubble out of them. Just leave them opened up until you see straight water/fluid coming out.
Click to expand...
No sir ill try this as well. I did notice that where my steam port goes back into the water-pump it was kinked which could be the issue!
 
Yeah give that a shot. I also used a radiator petcock drain and welded it into a piece of exhaust tubing and connected that to the top line of the water pump (return line). This was the highest point at the motor and just left it cracked open until straight fluid came out there as well. Hope that is easy enough to understand.
 
jsg1113 said:
Yeah give that a shot. I also used a radiator petcock drain and welded it into a piece of exhaust tubing and connected that to the top line of the water pump (return line). This was the highest point at the motor and just left it cracked open until straight fluid came out there as well. Hope that is easy enough to understand.
Click to expand...
Yes sir. How often does it get air in it? or is that just a one time thing after over filling?
 

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