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Moron needs help with electronics.

Boonie Buster

Stuck on a Curb
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
6,884
Location
Your Mom's
I posteed this on RCCrawler hoping to get some hlep there too. But I figure I might have a better chance of getting local hlep and parts from you yahoos! :redneck:

So over the years I have ignored all electronic training and it's gotten me tio this point, frustrated, confused, and my RC cars are wishy-washy at best. (I've tried searching, but my intraweb skills are weak.)

So, working with what i have:

-Axial AX-10 (scaler frame)
-Traxxas TQ controller
-Traxxas XL5 ESC
-Traxxas 2215 reciever
-Futaba 23003 steering servo
-Integy Matrix TQx 2007 V10TT MOD, 55x1 turn motor
-Dyna-Fun (7.2v i think) 1500mAh 6 cell Ni-Cd battery pack
-Mega 2 AC/DC Quick Charger

I guess what i'm needing help on is, that my one and only battery is dead/dying. And I think my charger is not a very good one. Whenever I run it, it dies fairly quick and doesn't seem to have the wheel speed i would like, it goes slow enough and has a good torque punch, but it's not fast enough when you need wheel speed up an obstacle.

-I need new (at least two) batteries.
-New charger possibly
-New Motor

I have two 9.6v 1600mAh batteries from another RC but i'm not sure what it'd take to run those while i find another battery setup.
Can I charge them on the charger I have?
Will it fry my electronics putting 9.6v batteries on a 7.2v system?

Are there any good resources for this info? Because when i tried searching, it doesn't like number searches...

I just haven't been able to figure out this electronic stuff to enjoy RC crawler.

Thanks.

P.S. I'm at the point, I'll invite someone over or I can go somewhere to meet someone in person if they have an hour or two to spend, so they can show me this stuff a little bit more in depth, maybe show me a rig of their own that works well. And tell me what's wrong or what I need to change to get this thing running a bit better. :hi:
 
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What kind of connectors are between the battery, motor and charger? If not deans plugs, replace them and see if it helps. Nothing to lose if it's not the problem because you can cut them off and solder on to the new stuff.
 
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What kind of connectors are between the battery, motor and charger? If not deans plugs, replace them and see if it helps. Nothing to lose if it's not the problem because you can cut them off and solder on to the new stuff.

It's all Tamiya plugs right now.
 
The connection on those wears out over time and dimishes performance. Even if it's not your problem now, it will be at some point.

Put it on the charger and let it start charging. When it gets close to being done, feel the plug and see if they are warm. If so the plug is causing problems.

If not warm then you just have a little whooped ass battery.

Even when new a nicad 1500 is shitty.

Get a lipo and cheap lipo charger and be done with it. They are cheap if you have ebay and are thrifty.
 
I run lipos in my xr10 & night crawler, they are much better and smaller than NICD or NIMH. As you probably know NICD & NIMH batteries basically loose power as you run them which makes the performance of your car/truck go down as well. Lipo batteries give off a constant power until the battery is dead, they require a little different handling and are not supposed to be ran down past a certain voltage.

Here's the charger I run;
http://www.valuehobby.com/product_details.php?category_id=13&item_id=197

I get my turnigy 1000 MAH 3S lipos from www.Hobbyking.com for $5.99 each, these are 11.1V but they come in 2s,3s,4s,5s,6s etc....

If you have any questions feel free to PM me i can try to help you to the best of my knowledge:awesomework:
 
I would not expect to get much wheel speed from that 55T motor, If you want something with more speed get a lower turn motor like 45 or 35T. I run a 25T motor in my xr10 which gives me tons of wheel speed and I just gear down to give me back the torque needed for crawling.

how long of run times are you getting out of that battery? I run an 1800 MAH 3s lipo in my night crawler and i can usually get about 20-30 minutes of run time, would be even longer in a rig like an ax10 because it does not have the juice sucking worm gears
 
If you got the $ spend it on a tekin fxr combo 35t. Then you will have the wheel speed and the capability to run 11.1v. For lipo's and cheap chargers got to hobbyking.com. Bout $6 a battery and tons of different sizes depending on your mounting options.
 
I would steer away from the cheaper chargers on ebay I bought a imax b6 and it broke immediatly. I bought a hyperion ac/dc eos0606i and was downe with it. Make sure to get a good one with a balancer and balance your lipos everytime you charge to keep them good if you go the lipo route(which I would suggest).
 
I would steer away from the cheaper chargers on ebay I bought a imax b6 and it broke immediatly. I bought a hyperion ac/dc eos0606i and was downe with it. Make sure to get a good one with a balancer and balance your lipos everytime you charge to keep them good if you go the lipo route(which I would suggest).

Well your first off you took the risk of buying electronics from Ebay, I wouldnt blame it directly on the product or the manufacturer as you dont know how it was handled once it left the manufacturers location from the beginning or if it had ever even been used regardless if it was labeled as brand new on ebay.

Have been using my Imax charger for a few months now with no problems. My brother is running the same one, the power supply he got with his had issues but he bought another one isntead of trying to deal with warranty work and has not had a problem since either.:awesomework:
 
Well your first off you took the risk of buying electronics from Ebay, I wouldnt blame it directly on the product or the manufacturer as you dont know how it was handled once it left the manufacturers location from the beginning or if it had ever even been used regardless if it was labeled as brand new on ebay.

Have been using my Imax charger for a few months now with no problems. My brother is running the same one, the power supply he got with his had issues but he bought another one isntead of trying to deal with warranty work and has not had a problem since either.:awesomework:

Everytime I try to cut a corner and buy the "harbor freight" quality stuff I always end up spending that much more than I would have if I would have bought a decent one to begin with:rolleyes:. You get what you pay for:awesomework:

The item description by the way was brand new unused and shipped from an ebay store. It was new and unopened when I recieved it. If anyone wants it they can have the Imax b6 6 cell charger/balancer I have. It has maybe 4-5 charges on it and one of the adjuster buttons sticks so you have to tap on it to get it to work. It says its charging but..... its lucky it hasnt made its way to the trash yet:puke:
 
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Everytime I try to cut a corner and buy the "harbor freight" quality stuff I always end up spending that much more than I would have if I would have bought a decent one to begin with:rolleyes:. You get what you pay for:awesomework:

The item description by the way was brand new unused and shipped from an ebay store. It was new and unopened when I recieved it. If anyone wants it they can have the Imax b6 6 cell charger/balancer I have. It has maybe 4-5 charges on it and one of the adjuster buttons sticks so you have to tap on it to get it to work. It says its charging but..... its lucky it hasnt made its way to the trash yet:puke:

I know what you mean about you get what you paid for but maybe you just got one of the bad ones? Every company has product that get out that are bad, its just the luck of the draw. Like I said I have not had any issues with mine and many people on rc crawler use the same one as well.
 
So I was messing around with my RC the other night and i think i found one of the issues. it was REALLY herky-jerky and if i shook the car it would move the wheels and jitter the steering wheel. i tracked it down to the ESC wire going into the reciever, the 3 wire plug seems to be bad, loose. if i wiggled the wires it would cause the car to move. :mad:
 
So I was messing around with my RC the other night and i think i found one of the issues. it was REALLY herky-jerky and if i shook the car it would move the wheels and jitter the steering wheel. i tracked it down to the ESC wire going into the reciever, the 3 wire plug seems to be bad, loose. if i wiggled the wires it would cause the car to move. :mad:

I've got a mamba max pro I will sell you!:awesomework:
 
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