Need Toyota SAS Help!!

PaulSac · Oct 13, 2010

Alright I am in the middle of my SAS and have a few questions (I'm sure Chop can help me out). I bought a Sky manufacturing kit. It has a front hanger and the frame tubes with boomerang shackles. They have a nice step by step instructions on their website but its not helping me out much. I am trying to figure out where to set my front hanger at. You can set it flush with the front of the frame or 1" forward or 1.5" forward. I have it bolted 1.5" forward now. The shackle angle looks like it is too much and the front tire looks a little too far forward. If I move it back then the shackle will be even worse. I think I have toyota rear springs but am not sure on that. Take a look:

Mocked up:

My leafs:

Tire position:

Front hanger 1.5" forward:

Rear shackle:

chevota1 · Oct 13, 2010

those look toi be rear springs witch are longer than fronts causing your shackle angle issue

PaulSac · Oct 13, 2010

chevota said:
those look toi be rear springs witch are longer than fronts causing your shackle angle issue

Dont alot of guys run the rear springs up front? Is this a good setup? The springs are 48 3/8" from center of eye to eye.

boardbysled · Oct 13, 2010

Looks perfect IMO.

Dubshot · Oct 13, 2010

It all depends on what year you got yer pack out of honestly.. How long are they eye to eye and eye to center pin you might have the Longer set which would also work. I used 83 pickup rears mixed with 85 4runner leafs and it turned out well.. I am willing to bet you got the longer set honestly from the looks of your pictures.. Did you buy the springs or pull them out of something??

SLIPPY · Oct 13, 2010

The pic of your tire position....is the center of the hub hole lined up with the king pin? also these do look like rear springs. What if you flip them around? doesnt look like the kingpin is centered on the spring, it looks offset to one end..

PaulSac · Oct 13, 2010

The kingpin is offset towards the front of the pack. The center of the wheel is lined up with the kingpin in the picture. If I flipped it around the wheel would be way too far back.

I got the springs off of a wheeler I traded for and scrapped out. The guy told me he thought they were toyota rears but he didnt build the truck either so I really have no way of finding out for sure.

SLIPPY · Oct 13, 2010

you gunna wheel the truck? honestly I would do some research and find out exactly what you wanna run vrs the spring length you need/how much room you have to play with. If your dead set on those, you could always put another hole in your pad

SLIPPY · Oct 13, 2010

but i think thats def. to much shackle angle. especially when you put weight on it...

might just be me but i dont think id wanna run those...id be worried about high steer, pinion angle, flex, the ride. got any other springs laying around? i run YJ pro-comp. im in love with them

PaulSac · Oct 13, 2010

This is not going to be my daily driver. Its going to be for wheeling but I will have to drive it on the highway to get to wheeling sites. Im not against getting another type of spring but I dont really know what would be a good setup. I have 36" Iroks. For the rear I believe they are 5 spring waggy rears but then again I dont know for sure. They came off of the same truck.

boardbysled · Oct 13, 2010

boardbysled said:
Looks perfect IMO.

Taking this back, as I just realized there was no weight on it, DOH!

And yes, those look like RUF's, your best bet would to be either move the hanger farther forward or put the hole in your frame farther back.

SLIPPY · Oct 13, 2010

^^^i edited my last post^^^ see above. My guess is that your spring is to far offset to compensate for the 1.5 inches room you have to play with. Im thinkin that kit was made for oncenter king pinned springs

Dubshot · Oct 13, 2010

For the love of god measure those things before you go putting new holes in your frame.. Move the hanger foward before the shackle back the body mount is in the way. You might just want to measure and see what you have and possibly sell a kidney and buy a 85 and under set for like 20-40$.. The further your push the hanger foward the more core support your going to have to cut out.. you can use that current pack to miss and match a set with yer new pack you get.. 81-83 seem to be the ones people run for the most part.. PM chop shop (brad) he likes to run the longer ones but measure those and post it!!:corn:

SLIPPY · Oct 13, 2010

boardbysled said:
Taking this back, as I just realized there was no weight on it, DOH!

And yes, those look like RUF's, your best bet would to be either move the hanger farther forward or put the hole in your frame farther back.

cant move the hanger any farther. its a bolt on and maxed out. unless you did a bunch of fab work. And i dont think id move the shackle mount behind the body mount unless i was dead set on those springs. All i can say is get procomp YJ springs. 4 inch for a spring under. when the body of my 84 wasnt smashed in i cleared 36s with them and shackles. plus youve got room to play with....

zukkev · Oct 13, 2010

I think I'd move the hole in the frame back and up abit if possible....all the previously mentioned things are valid concerns; big thing is your drag link; you don't want it crossing your steering link when in the straight ahead position!!!
...Looks like you're gonna be moving the steering box as far forward as possible??? If so, I'd get that done, then that will help dictate what you need to do with the spring/shackle mounts to get the axle placed properly, with the truck's weight on it... Hope that helped...

PaulSac · Oct 13, 2010

The springs are 48 3/8" from eye to eye center. then from rear eye center to pin is 28 1/2" and front eye center to pin is 21 3/4. I have no plans on moving the hole in the frame. This is where everyone seems to put them. Also the fron hanger is already 1.5" forward so I do not want to move it anymore either. I would prefer to move it to 1" also.

SLIPPY · Oct 13, 2010

im willing to bet the center link would rub on the springs. it may not even bolt up :haha:

PaulSac · Oct 13, 2010

I have high steer and wasnt planning on moving my steering box. Do you have to move it if you have the front hanger forward?

Dubshot · Oct 13, 2010

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780

Read up you will learn plenty here.. rears usually run 20.5 to the center pin and 22.5 from the other eye to the center pin.. are you measuring eye to eye straight across or following the spring with the tape?? I agree with kev that box is gonna have to go foward as far as possible. so with those numbers compared to yours id say you got the longer ones..

zukkev · Oct 13, 2010

PaulSac said:
I have high steer and wasnt planning on moving my steering box. Do you have to move it if you have the front hanger forward?

Any time you run RUF's, you almost always end up needing to move the box forward, unless you move the front hanger back to keep the axle located in a place that let's the steering work with the box in the stock location...Doing this, however, will require you to move the hole in the frame back!!!
when you do RUF's on a factory solid axle truck, the RUF's move the axle forward by almost an inch (stocks are 22.5" spring eye to center pin, and with RUF, the front measurement shrinks by .75") make sense???