Never ending Samurai build...

[clemsonjeep]

Made a trip to Gulches this past weekend along with easleycrawler (Travis), infamous1, and a few others. Was the first trip out with easley's rig since we redid a few things. The last trip out with mine was a few weeks ago to The Flats. I lost a lower bolt on the passenger front brake caliper which allowed it to rotate up while at The Flats. I got a bolt and fixed that while I was there.

This trip I started hearing something funky and when I pulled over on a trail Travis said something didn't look right on the passenger front. Turns out the rotor had broken off of the "hat". I guess this was just a side effect of losing that bolt and the caliper being able to do some funky stuff. I'm running the IFS hubs with the 95 model rotors that slip on over the hubs and the calipers mount on the outside of the knuckle ears. So...it's not quite a perfect setup but it works great. In any case we ran back up to the parking area and pulled the pieces of the rotor off and zip tied a 5/8 socket in the caliper to keep it from blowing out.

Then later in the day I'd been noticing a lack of power so I stuck my head under the hood to find that 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold had backed out over half way. What is it with the bolts backing out? Never had issues like this before. Got that sorted out and had a good time the rest of the day...including flopping in Papa Gulch. Got it on all 4 again and made it out the top. Headed home around 6pm and pulled of on an exit to get some fuel and when I pulled up to the pump I looked in the mirror and could tell something didn't look right. The hood pins had both broken off (aluminum pins) and the hood had flown up and hit the cage...FAWK. Oh well...threw some bungee cords on it and got back on the road after filling the truck up.

A little more work and it'll be close to how it was before.

 

[infamous1]

Had a good time, here are a couple I snapped

Sent from my Z750C using Tapatalk

 

[nhl_bullitt]

Kind of a bummer about the hood!

 

[clemsonjeep]

Yeah...I'm guessing the tree at the beginning of the trail damaging the area near the cowl and then flopping onto the driver side had something to do with the pins breaking, but definitely not something I expected.

 

[clemsonjeep]

Had a good time, here are a couple I snapped

Me too...thanks! Shame theres no video of how I ended up in that situation :driving:

 

[clemsonjeep]

Finally got aggravated enough with my home brew twin stick I'd made when I first built this rig. I'd used two stock shifters and cut the ball section in half. It worked pretty well, but sealing it up was never very good. I went back to looking around at what some others have done for this because in true Samurai spirit I refuse to pay for something I can make myself.

The best option I've seen is one that supazuk94 put together. I wasn't able to come up with the needle bearings like he used, but I believe the bronze bearing will work pretty well in this application. Pretty straight forward setup...just a lot of put it together, take it apart to get it right. I picked up the 1/2" rod and a 12mm 1.25 bolt to use for the shift knobs so I'm hoping to finish this up tonight.

Parts:
bronze bearing 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID - $2.40
steel sleeve 1/2" ID - $1.80
1/4" plate - shift arms - FREE SCRAP
1.25" x .125" wall square tube - $5 1 ft section
3/8" steel rod - drilled thru and tapped 8-32 - $5 3ft section
1/2" steel rod - shift handles - $5.50 3ft section
12mm x 1.25 bolt - to attach knobs - $1.10

Total - $20.80 and a pile of extra material left over

 

[jp fan]

Looks like a great trip sucks about the hood and brake, how are liking the BFG tires compared to the old Iroks?

 

[clemsonjeep]

Looks like a great trip sucks about the hood and brake, how are liking the BFG tires compared to the old Iroks?

Contrary to what most people say about the iroks...I really liked them. You just have to keep in mind that this rig only weighs 2700lbs ready to ride so that probably has a huge part in the way they work. I remember countless times I'd come back down an obstacle and have someone ask if they were stickies. I'd have to reassure them they were just plain old iroks...and the only stickies were in other sizes...not 39.5. What I liked the most about the iroks was their flexibility and how well they cleaned out.

The krawlers don't clean out as well, but they still work really...REALLY well in just about every situation I've had them in.

 

[clemsonjeep]

I've really been enjoying the turbo setup. It along with the auto trans made a world of difference in my rig. The ability to use high range in 1st gear on some longer hill climbs where I need wheel speed is very nice.

The biggest issue I have is the lack of tuning I am able to do. From a stand still on a hill where I need to have a small, but quick bump I am just out of luck. It takes the motor entirely too long to get moving. I'm attributing all of this to it flooding when I punch it. Of course I have a wideband and have seen this visually on it. Once it works through that it really comes alive and in some cases I have to reel it back in.

I've finally cured my overheating issues with a 3 row civic radiator along with a 13" SPAL puller fan. I had been running the stock radiator with a 14" fan from Advance Auto for the longest time and never had an issue until the turbo. Once the factory radiator gave up I bought the civic radiator and a shroud/fan combo from eBay. The fan was a 12" and was pretty much gutless. The new SPAL could possibly be helping me climb obstacles its so much more powerful.

Now...that brings me to where I am now. I've decided to try out a CV carb setup. I'm hoping I can tune it for my uses better than the TBI setup would allow with the FMU. I've gathered a few parts and started building the intake adapter last night.

Started with a greasy finger template...

 

[clemsonjeep]

I've got:

40mm CV Carb
Mallory 4309 FPR
Vacuum Distributor

At this point I need:

build adapter flange for inlet of carburetor with 3" tube
3" to 2" reducer 90 silicone elbow
2" 90 silicone elbow
1/2" steel tube for pitot tube
longer choke cable
modify CV carb for turbo
decide how to mount carb to intake tube (hose, flange, stock HD style clamp, etc.)
build new charge pipe from turbo to carburetor
run 3/8" fuel return to fuel cell

 

[clemsonjeep]

Got some more work done the past two nights. Now I've got the "filter adapter" side of the carb built. I've ordered the silicone pieces to get things hooked up. Hopefully those will show up by Friday and I can knock out the charge piping from the turbo to the carb.

I also got the carb tapped with the 1/8 NPT for the pitot setup.

For the "filter adapter" I used 3/16" steel for the flange with 2.25" exhaust tubing for the first section and 2.5" for the outer piece. This allowed me to use the socket head screws without interfering with the pipe. The 2.5" gets me to the right size for the silicone piece I ordered as well as giving me a double wall section which might help out depending on how I end up finishing this setup off. More to come on that...

 

[clemsonjeep]

This box of goodies showed up today from Barnes4WD...

 

[Jon Piper]

I like it !

Im glad you're going to try out the cv. I've always felt it work better than the tbi

 

[clemsonjeep]

Made a little more progress tonight. Started what will be another version of how the mysides and other kits secure the carburetor.

 

[clemsonjeep]

These showed up Saturday...plan on getting the charge pipe built and installed with the pitot tube and blow-off mounted tomorrow.

 

[clemsonjeep]

Spent some time on the lathe this morning. No reason I had to...just hadn't had a reason to use it lately. Turned the pitot tube fitting as well as the connection for the blowoff and got them welded to the charge pipe. Also got the silicone hoses cut to size and the charge pipe installed.

I believe Jared said bigger is better when it comes to the pitot tube and I think he's using 1/2". Right now the fittings I had on hand were 1/4" so I drilled the majority of the rod to a little over .4" but I left the last .75" drilled smaller and turned down to accept the 1/4" hose. If I need to go bigger all I'll need to do is cut off the "nipple" and use larger hose.

Hard to make out...but the pitot tube reaches in to approx. the center.

 

[infamous1]

Re:

Slick man!! Looking foward to seeing it up and running.

Sent from my Z750C using Tapatalk

 

[clemsonjeep]

Well here it is a month later and I've finally got this new CV carb setup working correctly. I started out only spending an hour or so a night on it, but the last week or so I've been beating my head against a wall for several hours each night trying to figure this crap out. I kept getting fragments of good information from various sources and being that my mind works more so on a fix individual issues rather than the big picture I really just couldn't get it to come together. Then once I realized I was being dumb I backed up and took another look and realized I was overlooking a very simple problem.

Being that I'm running the turbo, and using a pitot tube to pressurize the float bowl on the carburetor I also needed to prevent this pressure from escaping the bowl. Well...the hole on the front face of the carb was blocked with my filter adapter that I made so I ruled that out from the get go...and thats where things fell apart. I knew the overflow tube on the bottom of the bowl would allow fuel to pour out if the bowl was over filled, but it didn't even occur to me that the boost could make its way out this same opening. At one point or another I hooked up a tube to this port in order to capture the fuel into a container. The next time I revved it I noticed spray from this tube...AH HA!!!! So I put a plug on this line...and all was well.

At this point I'm running the 40mm carb from a 91 model bike with a 48 pilot and I've drilled the main jet out to what amounts to a 390 size jet.

I've also got a 44mm carb here, but the last time I mounted it up I was confused why it would act completely different than the 40 with the exact same setup. Again...I wasn't looking at the big picture. At that point the largest jet I had was around a 250...so I'm guessing based on the idea that I'm at a 390 now with the 40mm carb I probably just need to go back and try it again with the 390 or maybe even just remove the main altogether.

Bottom line here is that this setup really woke up my motor compared to how it was running with the TBI setup using the FMU and turbo. Going to try it out this Saturday.

 

[Jon Piper]

If you're having to use that large of a main wouldn't it be a better choice to raise the fuel pressure and drop the main jet down accordingly ?

It seems a huge split between the pilot and main

 

[clemsonjeep]

Nope...you can't get much over 2psi before it starts overrunning the bowl at idle. The float and needle can only hold back so much. Keep in mind these were set up for a gravity feed tank setup.

Most of the guys running the CV on a 1.6 8v I've seen were running a 48 idle and 220 or slightly larger without a turbo...

 

[Red97]

Wow...

Just read all 10 pages
Very nice, that rig just plain works.

Love that radiator idea gotta get one ordered.


I must have missed it, but what are the specs as it sits now?

I got it's a turbo 1.6 8v 3sp auto. I will be picking your brain a bit on this at a later date.
Sami case? Gears? Axle ratio? 39 sticky? Wheel base?

This is almost identical to what I have planned for my tracker rebuild.

Thank you for doing such a nice writeup.

 

[clemsonjeep]

Thanks!

Yota axles with:
5.29's cryo/heat treated by Bobby Long
High pinion front 3rd with ARB
Trunion bearing eliminator
ARP steering studs
ARP hub studs
Front high pinion 3rd with ARB
Rear V6 elocker with cryo/heat treated side gears by Bobby
Longfields 30 spline front shafts... originals
Stock rear shafts
IFS wheel hubs
IFS calipers
98 4 runner rotors...slip over hub
Rear FJ rotors, FJ calipers, brackets

Wheelbase is 105 is

Samurai transfer case with 6.5's mounted in a ZOR Snatch

Yep...39" red labels!

 

[clemsonjeep]

If you're having to use that large of a main wouldn't it be a better choice to raise the fuel pressure and drop the main jet down accordingly ?

It seems a huge split between the pilot and main

Another thing to think about is that the fuel pressure doesn't come into play really except to make sure the bowl can remain full. Obviously pressure rises with boost in order to keep up with demand. The fuel is drawn out of the bowl by the flow of air through the carb...not by the pressure.

 

[Red97]

Thanks!

Yota axles with:
5.29's cryo/heat treated by Bobby Long
High pinion front 3rd with ARB
Trunion bearing eliminator
ARP steering studs
ARP hub studs
Front high pinion 3rd with ARB
Rear V6 elocker with cryo/heat treated side gears by Bobby
Longfields 30 spline front shafts... originals
Stock rear shafts
IFS wheel hubs
IFS calipers
98 4 runner rotors...slip over hub
Rear FJ rotors, FJ calipers, brackets

Wheelbase is 105 is

Samurai transfer case with 6.5's mounted in a ZOR Snatch

Yep...39" red labels!

Sweet thanks.

Really hoping i can fit a small rear bench in at 105" and narrow axles.

 

[Jon Piper]

Sweet thanks.

Really hoping i can fit a small rear bench in at 105" and narrow axles.

I'm at 112 and a single rear seat is tight

 

[zukimaster]

I ran a cv carb on my Zuk motor, and I loved it!

 

[clemsonjeep]

Next transition will be to something like this...with the turbo of course...

1.6L samurai with gsxr setup. (Zx10 carbs)

1.6L samurai with gsxr setup. (Zx10 carbs)

 

[Jon Piper]

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[clemsonjeep]

That's one of Fastspec's isn't it?

 

[Red97]

If one was good with electronics/megasquirt

The cycle throttle bodies + turbo would be killer...

Was yours a fresh 1.6 before you put the turbo on?

I'm thinking a cv or especially gsxr carbs would be a performance increase from the tbi. But never been around bike carbs. Not sure how picky they can be in 30* and under weather here in mi.

This thread is very bad for my piggy bank...