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Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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sleepsontoilet said:
I guess people with holes in the hood are just garage hacks... :stir:

HA...funny thing is as soon as I posted that I went back to look at your thread to see what you did with yours. Foot in mouth...oh well :****:

Then I went and looked at onetoncrawlers build since it was running the 1.3 motor. I'll be sending back a new TG res I got from LROR and trading it for the PSC res. When that shows up I'll be moving it as close to the pump as I can. The turbo throws a wrench in that to some degree, but I looked it over tonight and I think I can make it work. At this point my feed line is just shy of 24" and PSC says the max they recommend is 16"...so I'm obviously not where I need to be with my setup.
 
My new setup is below the hood. I prefer everything concealed for a clean look, but sometimes I have to sacrifice looks for function. Never any offense here, I'm proud of my hackness. Hahaha
 
Finally bit the bullet and chopped the frame today. I didn't realize what a pain the motor mounts would be. Clearances really are tight and I just got lucky that the bolt will slide in the driver side mount. I quit tonight when I realized the tabs coming off the block on the pass side are gonna have to be quite a bit longer in order for the bolt to clear the starter and alternator.

In any case I got the new tube frame rails in and started working on the winch mount location. I also got the orbital mounted and will be redoing the res mount location. Hopefully tomorrow night I'll wrap up the pass side mount and get the winch in place.

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Happy to finally have the front end clutter free. Now I just need to decide what I want to do to pull it all together. I've got a few other rigs that I'm pulling ideas from, but still scratching my head...

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Re:

I'd do some "football helmet face guard" lookin tube.

Please don't put a pointy inverted V boner bar. Or 2.
 
More work on the front done.

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Need to decide what to do for the support for that front hoop...tube or plate gusset style?

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I could probably leave it alone too. I will be ditching my aluminum fairlead so that I can drop the line straight down to the axle. If I keep the fairlead my hook won't fit through it so I'll be stuck with it hanging off the front or having a really bad angle down to the axle. I'll be adding a horizontal tube between the front hoop and then two short vertical pieces from it down the bumper tube. These will all be behind the centerline of the hoop so that's probably more than enough support.
 
If you will blow a hole through the bottom of your winch plate and ditch the hook, you can still use the alum. fairlead. That is what we all do and use a clevis. It allows you to run a suck down and then pull the clevis and run it through the fair lead whenever you need to winch.
 
Well I'd thought I could remove my book from the thimble on my line but it's on there permanently. So I can ditch the fairlead and pull the hook to whichever point I need it at, or cut the hook off and use a d ring. I like my hook...crap.

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clemsonjeep said:
Well I'd thought I could remove my book from the thimble on my line but it's on there permanently. So I can ditch the fairlead and pull the hook to whichever point I need it at, or cut the hook off and use a d ring. I like my hook...crap.

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I was in the same boat with the exact same hook. The guys showed me how to unbraid my winch line so I didn't have to cut it. Those are the only two options for taking the hook off. I thought I wouldn't like using d rings too, but they are growing on me.
 
^
This.

Unbraiding and rebraiding a winchline isn't very complicated and you can switch to a better thimble (one that doesn't crush) than this one in the process. And then you can use D-Rings.

That said, you could keep your hook on the line and hook it to your axle, unless you have packaging problems.

As Broady said, cutting a hole at the back of the winch plate makes for a better, more direct path for the rope, ut I've seen people use it with a fairlead and over the bumper back to the axle with no issues in a few years of use.

On a buddy's buggy :

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Finally getting close to wrapping this up. I ran out of shielding gas today or I could've been done. Started off by finishing up some tubing from shock hoops to tubular frame rail then moved on to building new lower radiator mounts.

After welding the only other project I've got is removing the oil pan and moving my oil return port from the rear of the ban to the front.

Radiator mount...

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sleepsontoilet said:
That turned out clean

Thanks!

infamous1 said:
looks good Ryan!! why do you have to relocate your oil return?

Its currently located at the rear driver corner of the oil pan. There's been one or two time on VERY steep obstacles that I believe that the oil return hasn't been able to flow due to oil pooling at the rear of the pan and allowing it to blow by in the turbo. This was simply an oversight when I built it.
 
Well scrap the idea of moving the drain location..driver side upper link has occupied all of that real estate. Took it for a ride yesterday...seems good but it's running like **** for some reason. Hoping it's from sitting and just dirty plugs.
 
WELL...it works GREAT! I've got a few things to adjust...toe is currently way out...so gotta dial that back in. Otherwise it works really well. I've got limit straps on the way too but thanks to UPS they won't be here until Tuesday next week (damn they get slower every year). Probably the best part was it was my sons first trip with me. Just wish I 'd had a way to get some videos...but we'll have to settle for poser shots.

The carburetor is also running a lot better...I think the majority of the problem I was having was too much fuel pressure. I turned it back down to 1.5psi at idle and it really seems to be good. I also stepped down a size or two for the main jet...but I think that needs to go back up just a hair since it's pinging a little too quick on full throttle runs (which don't happen very often).

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