QUALITY company for 1350 yokes

Boonie Buster · Jul 19, 2008

So after further looking at my pinion and t-case yokes (1350 u-joints) I am finding that the t-case ones have the u-joint "u-bolt" holes reamed out in an oblong fashion, and the surface that the seal rides on in rough and not machined properly to allow the seal to ride correctly on it. The ford 9" rear 1350 yoke won't allow "high angle" travel as promised, the u-joint hits the pinion shaft/nut (prolly wouldn't even work at ride height). and the dana 44 1350 yoke...well it doesn't even FIT the 1350 u-joint....AT ALL!!!

and is a strap style not u-bolt.

Needless to say I am beyond pissed...Livid if you will... I am in the process of writing an email and prepping for a nasty phone call on monday to return this stuff, I feel like a jackass, I paid close to $400 for these (4)yokes and none of them are correct or useable :booo: :booo: :booo:

So anyone have a good company to suggest 1350 yokes that are CORRECT AND ****ING FIT!!!!

TreeClimber · Jul 19, 2008

Call Tom Woods. They've treated me great over the years, both with prices and service. For some reason Tom himself seems to answer every time I call, and if so, tell him 'hi' from Tony Fox.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

Binder · Jul 19, 2008

1350 stuff is not high angle travel....

Cascade_Crawler · Jul 20, 2008

well who did you get it from?

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

Binder said:
1350 stuff is not high angle travel....

hmm...well then maybe i'm not saying this correctly, i think i mean the drivelines them self permit fairly good travel, and i still think the yokes will net some fairly good travel, but in any case, this stuff is garbage and is not going to work...period. I mean i am getting MAYBE 4 degrees MAX out of the rear pinion yoke, due to the fact it hits the pinion nut/shaft.:eeek: And the dana 44 yoke doesn't even come close to fitting the u-joint(it has to be like a 1330 or 1310 joint that fits it), and i was showing my dad and he spotted out that the valley that the u-joint cap lays in on the t-case yokes looks like a spun bearing on a motor... that can't be good... I'm just kinda bummed i got jerked like this.:booo: :booo: :booo:

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

Cascade_Crawler said:
well who did you get it from?

These fools...

http://driveshaftsuperstore.com/

1982cj7 · Jul 20, 2008

Ditto on Tom Woods, he knows exactly what is needed. :awesomework:

SUPAFLY · Jul 20, 2008

http://www.coastdriveline.com/

I run front and rear drivelines from these guys and their **** is good!

CHOP SHOP · Jul 20, 2008

get some flanged outputs and pinion flanges, then you can run toyota shafts!:awesomework: :flipoff:

this is one of those problems you made for your self. remember how you told me you like to be different? now you pay. but hey its unique.

can you afford spares of all these yokes that dont work? did I mention, spicer joints/shafts suck even after it all works.

looks like you have tons of options.

the only fix for ordering driveline crap is going from wrecking yard to yard with peices you have already till you find the right oem pieces. they will send you the wrong **** many times.

also have you run the axle that is hitting the pinion on the yoke nut? or is it a fresh setup? if new, it could be setup to shallow.:beer:

angelfly · Jul 20, 2008

ya know I thought you should know but the yokes on the 205 are upgraded already. . . . I forgot what the hell they are a buddy gave me them I'm pretty sure they were 1350's. . . I could be thinking about the other 205 but I'm pretty sure it was that one and also the 44 had an ungraded yoke on it for sure!!!! I had the whole axle rebuilt when I first got the truck and they put a 1330 or 1350 yoke on it that was 2 years ago and my memory sucks.

But anyways I guess my point is this why bother to upgrade that **** when it handled my fullsize with 36's and 39's with 400hp???? I never broke one!!! I know for a fact your rig is way less weight and most likely less power to. . . . My guess is you would be fine with the ones that came on there:awesomework:

Idk maybe thats stupid to think but they handled my fullsize for 2years and I beat the living crap out of that truck and never had any problems:beer:

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
get some flanged outputs and pinion flanges, then you can run toyota shafts!:awesomework: :flipoff:

this is one of those problems you made for your self. remember how you told me you like to be different? now you pay. but hey its unique.

can you afford spares of all these yokes that dont work? did I mention, spicer joints/shafts suck even after it all works.

looks like you have tons of options. the only fix for ordering driveline crap is going from wrecking yard to yard with peices you have already till you find the right oem pieces. they will send you the wrong **** many times.

also have you run the axle that is hitting the pinion on the yoke nut? or is it a fresh setup? if new, it could be setup to shallow.:beer:

Then does no one run 1350 joints?:eeek:
As far as spares... I'm hoping that i don't need to be carrying one of each yoke. And yes, I can afford them...if they work:redneck: I got them in hopes of them NOT breaking...EVER....
Do they ONLY make spicer 1350 joints then?

the rear setup is a fresh setup, and no it's not a shallow pattern. unless i'm wrong but the shaft barely sticks out the end of the pinion nut.

Now I guess something I never wuite get sometimes, is the 20 degrees that they say a u-joiny/yoke can travel... is that TOTAL or is it 20 degrees up and 20 degrees down (total of 40 degrees), or is it 10 degrees up and 10 degrees down?( I can't imagine it being this)

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

So do you guys think I should downgrade to a 1330 or 1310 or toyota (i don't like the flange setup) ???? I might still be able to return everything for the smaller 1330 or 1310...

I mean i guess i am dumb once again for thinking this stuff would be stronger and more beneficial, guess i should have gone with what everyone else does...:booo:

angelfly · Jul 20, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
So do you guys think I should downgrade to a 1330 or 1310 or toyota (i don't like the flange setup) ???? I might still be able to return everything for the smaller 1330 or 1310...

I mean i guess i am dumb once again for thinking this stuff would be stronger and more beneficial, guess i should have gone with what everyone else does...:booo:

Personally I think you are wasting your time with upgrading those it seems to be causing you more of a headache then anything

Also if you are worrying about breaking them(dont know how you would and I couldnt) I would carry a spare for the 9in and 44, and go back to what was on there to begin with

Also just a word of wisdom the 205 and 44 yokes will swap with eachother I have done it multiple times:awesomework:

JThompson · Jul 20, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
So do you guys think I should downgrade to a 1330 or 1310 or toyota (i love the flange setup)

Yes, Aaron! Toy shafts are actually rather strong, but I am not sure that is your answer.... If you broke one, I would never hear the end of it. :76:

Oh, and you can get the flange setup, I am sure, for many different u-joint styles. I can't remember... Do research, son! :awesomework:

Freeride · Jul 20, 2008

In my 4.0 TJ with 40" tires, Atlas 2 and 5.13 gears, I've never broke a 1310 joint. Driveline u-joint breakage has a lot more to do with severe angles, axle wrap, and lack of maintenance.

Boonie Buster · Jul 20, 2008

Freeride said:
In my 4.0 TJ with 40" tires, Atlas 2 and 5.13 gears, I've never broke a 1310 joint. Driveline u-joint breakage has a lot more to do with severe angles, axle wrap, and lack of maintenance.

none of which i have severe issues with.... ugh... i'm just bummed...:booo:

1310s come in the front of dana 44s right? or are they slightly different...?

JayH · Jul 20, 2008

x2 on Tom Woods. I just bought a 1350 slip yoke with joint for $85 shipped. Tom knows his stuff and very reasonable on prices.

bigiron · Jul 20, 2008

I have a 1350 yolk for a 44 let me find it....I got it from randy's a few years back made 1 run it was strong.......Too strong for the ring and pinion