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Rebound Concerns- Nitrogen Psi or Valving?

bbtank45

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Apr 12, 2012
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354
Location
Cincinnat, OH
Over this past weekend i made a trip down to Dirty Turtle Off Road.....

It was a test run before a trip that our local off-road club (CORE) is taking down to Windrock Sept. 26th

I am running a set of Fox 2.0" Remote Resi. CO's with 100's over 150's......Before i was running 150's over 200's and wasnt able to get any pre-load in the spring rates and i wasnt quite at the proper ride height. Anyways......i noticed that the rear of the truck bounced A LOT all of a sudden (its only been since i switched these springs out). Ive been in coversation about this with Tommy @ PolyPerformance and he recommended that i do one of two things 1) Increase nitrogen pressure from 180 psi to 250 psi 2) Revalve the shock from 80 to 50 or 60.

Truck weighs 4100 lbs. with 70% AS...

What are your thoughts guys?....Obviously the increased nitrogen is the simplest way to go but will it just be a band-aid for poor valving. Any experiences?
 
Increasing pressure in the shock will actually increase the effective spring rate slightly, therefore going the opposite direction you need to go. My buggy has 100/150 springs in the rear, it sounds like you have way too much spring to me. Too much spring is a fairly common issue.

If you don't get the spring rate right you don't have a chance at getting valving right in my limited experience.
 
Call Max at MOAB Offroad Louisville Ky he will hook you up with what you need 1-502-962-8141
 
crawlin85cj said:
Increasing pressure in the shock will actually increase the effective spring rate slightly, therefore going the opposite direction you need to go. My buggy has 100/150 springs in the rear, it sounds like you have way too much spring to me. Too much spring is a fairly common issue.

If you don't get the spring rate right you don't have a chance at getting valving right in my limited experience.

I can't remember my corner sprung weights but my springs are 150/300 in the front (YJ with v8, 4 link) which is probably too firm as far as going fast over whoops and stuff but very stable while crawling. I used spring rate calc and went with a high frequency. Anyway... I get wheel hop or chatter on steep climbs while spinning with heavy throttle at times and was thinking about changing valving. Could spring rates be problem?
 
Re: Re: Re: Rebound Concerns- Nitrogen Psi or Valving?

offroadwerks said:
I can't remember my corner sprung weights but my springs are 150/300 in the front (YJ with v8, 4 link) which is probably too firm as far as going fast over whoops and stuff but very stable while crawling. I used spring rate calc and went with a high frequency. Anyway... I get wheel hop or chatter on steep climbs while spinning with heavy throttle at times and was thinking about changing valving. Could spring rates be problem?

If the chatter is causing you to hit the dual rate stops, you could be "bouncing" off the heavy lower rate.
 
i agree too that's heavy of a lower spring on the front and too big of a difference between the lower and upper springs........but he's talking about his rear bouncing and he's already got 100 over 150 to get his preload and ride height right so now i would say it's definitely time to revalve.
 
Re: Re: Re: Rebound Concerns- Nitrogen Psi or Valving?

Neal3000 said:
i agree too that's heavy of a lower spring on the front and too big of a difference between the lower and upper springs........but he's talking about his rear bouncing and he's already got 100 over 150 to get his preload and ride height right so now i would say it's definitely time to revalve.

I'd say to control a relatively soft and pre loaded suspension it would require some pretty heavy/stiff valving.

For that matter, the OP could be bouncing on the lower spring also, blowing through the initial rate to fast, then hitting the step up in rate, without enough damping to control it.
 
Sorry about hi-jacking this thread but my lower springs are 275 not 300. I have removed my dual rate step up adjusters because I'm running triple rate set up and they were canceling out my helper coil and letting my springs get loose. That let my bottom spring cup to fall out and somehow got in a bind and broke a shock shaft. I'm not sure what is going on with mine. I might strap my go pro and watch what springs are actually doing.
 
the trend that has been working well lately is to go a little lighter on the spring rates and bumping up the nitrogen pressure a touch more.
 
Re:

offroadwerks said:
.............they were canceling out my helper coil

If you are using a helper coil your springs are too stiff.

That's why stock rigs need a spring compressor to remove springs. PRELOAD!

Suspension can't work if the tire isn't PUSHED back down to the ground before the next bump. You have to have wimpy springs that make your ride height too low. Then preload them to bring the ride height back up.
 

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