RZR Build for Baja 1000

[RookieRacing]

2014 Polaris RZR 4 1000

Converted back to 2 seat - we wanted the wheel base

4130 Cage
Long Travel
Bigger Fuel
New Radiator
etc etc

for more info follow us on

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rookie-Racing/324109291080629?ref=hl

 

[RookieRacing]

more pics

 

[RookieRacing]

Few More

 

[RookieRacing]

Pics

 

[RookieRacing]

Finished with Chassis.

 

[wannabe]

Looks bad ass

 

[RookieRacing]

Looks bad ass

Thank you very much, we have been working hard on it.

 

[wannabe]

When's it gonna be done?

 

[RookieRacing]

When's it gonna be done?

Well its getting inspected this Monday by score. If it passes and we feel that it will, its off to sheet metal. Should have it back first of the year then we have to wire and fab for rear radiator, spare tire holder and a few other parts. Hoping by the end of Jan end of Feb at the latest. The we are gonna start hammering on it and get all the weak links to show up.

 

[FullMetalFabworks]

Well its getting inspected this Monday by score. If it passes and we feel that it will, its off to sheet metal. Should have it back first of the year then we have to wire and fab for rear radiator, spare tire holder and a few other parts. Hoping by the end of Jan end of Feb at the latest. The we are gonna start hammering on it and get all the weak links to show up.

Good looking build and nice fabwork. I can tell you about a few weak links on it before you get started and hopefully save you some time testing and fixing broken stuff on an assembled car where things are in your way; the factory sway bar mounts, the factory front A-arm mounts, and the chassis side pivot area for the radius rods. The factory sway bar mounts are junk and WILL break before you can finish a 1000 mile race, so unless you want to be welding those in the pits I would cut them off and re-do them with 1/8" 4130 ( I think they are like 12ga MS stock). The A-arm mounts up front would probably last a race but they will be totally trashed after it, this is an area I would sacrifice a pound or so and remake them out of chromo with some gusseting, again it will be a lot easier to do it now rather than after they junk (ask me how I know). On the radius rod mounts on the rear, I have seen the bolts loosen up, when hammered hard enough, and then the misalignment spacers start to egg out the bulkhead they are mounted to , so definitely red loctite the **** out of those and if it were mine I would add weld washers on the chassis side and I assume whatever kit you are going with for the aftermarket arms will come with a new plate for that area.
Will you be using the factory motor mounts? If so the top bolt on the rear most mount likes to back out so race prep that for sure, If not, did you lower the mounting location of the motor? Im not sure how it is on the 4-seaters but on the 2-seaters the mounting puts the trans output substantially higher than the center carrier bearing support (non cancelling angles) and is where I think the driveshaft vibes everyone complains about on these comes from ( and not so much the out of phase yokes). If I were building a chassis for one I would definitely get build it with better driveline angles in mind. Good luck down in Baja, will definitely be following the rest of your build.

 

[ibrokeit]

Wasn't there already a thread on this build? Looks good.

 

[RookieRacing]

Wasn't there already a thread on this build? Looks good.

Yes, I just figured the side by side guys would appreciate it more.

 

[RookieRacing]

Good looking build and nice fabwork. I can tell you about a few weak links on it before you get started and hopefully save you some time testing and fixing broken stuff on an assembled car where things are in your way; the factory sway bar mounts, the factory front A-arm mounts, and the chassis side pivot area for the radius rods. The factory sway bar mounts are junk and WILL break before you can finish a 1000 mile race, so unless you want to be welding those in the pits I would cut them off and re-do them with 1/8" 4130 ( I think they are like 12ga MS stock). The A-arm mounts up front would probably last a race but they will be totally trashed after it, this is an area I would sacrifice a pound or so and remake them out of chromo with some gusseting, again it will be a lot easier to do it now rather than after they junk (ask me how I know). On the radius rod mounts on the rear, I have seen the bolts loosen up, when hammered hard enough, and then the misalignment spacers start to egg out the bulkhead they are mounted to , so definitely red loctite the **** out of those and if it were mine I would add weld washers on the chassis side and I assume whatever kit you are going with for the aftermarket arms will come with a new plate for that area.
Will you be using the factory motor mounts? If so the top bolt on the rear most mount likes to back out so race prep that for sure, If not, did you lower the mounting location of the motor? Im not sure how it is on the 4-seaters but on the 2-seaters the mounting puts the trans output substantially higher than the center carrier bearing support (non cancelling angles) and is where I think the driveshaft vibes everyone complains about on these comes from ( and not so much the out of phase yokes). If I were building a chassis for one I would definitely get build it with better driveline angles in mind. Good luck down in Baja, will definitely be following the rest of your build.

Man I truly appreciate the info. We are not using the factory motor mounts, been looking a some billet styles for weight. Do you have any recommendations on aftermarket? We are def gonna strengthen the shock point. I look closer at the driveshaft. Overall its going to be trial and error. But guys like you sharing info helps allot.

 

[RookieRacing]

Pulled her outside today and got a side pick.

 

[FullMetalFabworks]

Man I truly appreciate the info. We are not using the factory motor mounts, been looking a some billet styles for weight. Do you have any recommendations on aftermarket? We are def gonna strengthen the shock point. I look closer at the driveshaft. Overall its going to be trial and error. But guys like you sharing info helps allot.

Not a problem, I don't have any suggestions on the billet motor mounts but they're definitely a good idea. I don't race mine ( because it costs too much $$$, I might do KOH next year if Polaris offers up another new one as the prize again haha), but I have almost 1,500 miles on mine and my buddy has nearly 3,000 on his (both he and his brother race theirs) and probably 80-90% of those miles are at race pace so between the two of us I think we have a pretty good idea of their weak points. Another thing I forgot to mention that is an absolute must is changing out the Secondary Clutch dampener from the powdered metal crap that is in there to something like this one from Sparks racing http://www.sparksracing.com/heavy-duty-secondary-clutch-dampener-polaris-2011-2014-rzr-900-xp-xp4-1000xp-xp4.html Those usually go before the 1,000 mile mark, I pulled mine out in two pieces at 700 miles, and they take out a lot of expensive parts when they go. If I was you I would call up Sparks or someone like that and talk to them about what youre building and potentially try to work up some type of sponsorship, it helps that you have a legit build to show them. While you're over there take a look at their manual cam chain tensioner too, thatd be a shitty party to take you out of a race. A couple other things to look into are belt cooling, hot belts die pretty quick in these. Put a temp gauge like the one made by Alba,on the clutch housing exhaust and then monitor it when your testing and do whatever it takes to make sure the belt stays cool in race conditions (lots of belt killer silt beds in baja). Theres lots of things you can do to cool them down, clutch kits, vents for the cover, in-line blower fans, etc etc, the last thing you want to have someone in your dust and look down at your belt gauge and see 200 degrees and then have to back off. I'm only telling you all this because that way i can vicariously live out my dreams through you and keep poor man upgrading the crap that brakes on mine haha

 

[wannabe]

Sounds like full metal fan needs to join the race team.

 

[RookieRacing]

Not a problem, I don't have any suggestions on the billet motor mounts but they're definitely a good idea. I don't race mine ( because it costs too much $$$, I might do KOH next year if Polaris offers up another new one as the prize again haha), but I have almost 1,500 miles on mine and my buddy has nearly 3,000 on his (both he and his brother race theirs) and probably 80-90% of those miles are at race pace so between the two of us I think we have a pretty good idea of their weak points. Another thing I forgot to mention that is an absolute must is changing out the Secondary Clutch dampener from the powdered metal crap that is in there to something like this one from Sparks racing http://www.sparksracing.com/heavy-duty-secondary-clutch-dampener-polaris-2011-2014-rzr-900-xp-xp4-1000xp-xp4.html Those usually go before the 1,000 mile mark, I pulled mine out in two pieces at 700 miles, and they take out a lot of expensive parts when they go. If I was you I would call up Sparks or someone like that and talk to them about what youre building and potentially try to work up some type of sponsorship, it helps that you have a legit build to show them. While you're over there take a look at their manual cam chain tensioner too, thatd be a shitty party to take you out of a race. A couple other things to look into are belt cooling, hot belts die pretty quick in these. Put a temp gauge like the one made by Alba,on the clutch housing exhaust and then monitor it when your testing and do whatever it takes to make sure the belt stays cool in race conditions (lots of belt killer silt beds in baja). Theres lots of things you can do to cool them down, clutch kits, vents for the cover, in-line blower fans, etc etc, the last thing you want to have someone in your dust and look down at your belt gauge and see 200 degrees and then have to back off. I'm only telling you all this because that way i can vicariously live out my dreams through you and keep poor man upgrading the crap that brakes on mine haha

Man thanks again. We got in the shop this week and put together solutions for everything you outlined. What part of the country are you from?

 

[FullMetalFabworks]

Man thanks again. We got in the shop this week and put together solutions for everything you outlined. What part of the country are you from?

I'm from Alabama, but moved out to Southern California for what was supposed to be a 6 month stay to learn some new things about fabrication, that will be 4 years ago in February. Ended up working with some race shops for a couple years and then started my own thing making Jeep parts (Full Metal Fabworks) using what I learned over the last few years. I've always been a Jeeper/Crawler but got the go fast/racing bug from my past jobs and the RZRs are the only thing I know of that you can pay a couple hundred bucks a month for the rest of your life and get an out of the box poor mans class 1 feel haha. While I got you making lists, go ahead and add changing all those stupid pinch style hose clamps on the things to real hose clamps. I've had pretty good luck with mine, but I have seen the one that goes from the air intake to the motor ( you can see it if you're looking in the drive side wheel well right in front of the shock) come off and it just sucks sand and junk straight into the motor.

 

[IndianaCrawler]

Awesome build, keep the updates coming! Looking at everything your changing, upgrading and throwing away was it worth starting with a new $20k rig vs ordering $20k in aftermarket parts (built motor, custom A arms, king shocks, plastics...) it seems like you could have got everything your keeping only better with the $20k.

 

[RookieRacing]

Tech Inspection by Score Pics. We passed and have a green tag. Now we wait for our radiator and fuel cell. Motor is back in.