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Steering pump feed line
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<blockquote data-quote="John Galbreath Jr." data-source="post: 585948" data-attributes="member: 31"><p>Maximum 16" according to PSC.</p><p></p><p>From their site:</p><p></p><p>Reservoir Installation Checklist:</p><p>1. Keeping in mind the pump is gravity fed, the reservoir should be the</p><p>highest point in the power steering system. This will help ensure the pump</p><p>gets all the fuid it needs as easily as possible, greatly extending the life and</p><p>performance of the pump. If the reservoir is too low some components may</p><p>drain back into the reservoir upon engine is shut of. This can cause leaking</p><p>or, worse, allow air into the system. Another problem with a reservoir</p><p>mounted low is that the pump will be working overtime, all the time.</p><p>2.<span style="color: red"> It is preferable to mount the reservoir directly over the pump. If this is not</span></p><p><span style="color: red">possible, in front of the pump is typically better than behind it.</span></p><p>3. If the reservoir must mount to the frame, body, etc (anywhere not directly</p><p>tied to the engine) take special care that the feed line will not become</p><p>stressed during engine torque over or other twisting and flexing maneuvers.</p><p>4. Use a baffled reservoir. A properly baffled reservoir will help keep air out</p><p>of the system. A non-baffled, or poorly baffled reservoir can introduce air</p><p>simply by allowing air to mix with the fluid as it enters the reservoir.</p><p>5. The feed line should be kept as short and straight as possible. It should</p><p>not have any dips or sharp bends and should never run below the level of the pump. The feed line should</p><p>never be crimped, looped, or run horizontal – it should always be flowing downhill into the pump, the steeper</p><p>the better. The longer the feed line, the harder it is for the pump to draw fluid in.<span style="color: red"> It should not exceed 16</span></p><p><span style="color: red">inches</span>. The feed line should also be of suffcient size to meet the demands of the pump, #10 is the</p><p>recommended minimum. Do not use the supplied -6 pressure line as the feed line, use the -10 feed line. When</p><p>attaching the feed line to the pump, do not over tighten! The wrench used is typically long providing a great</p><p>deal of leverage, it is not uncommon to see these fittings twisted off.</p><p>6. The reservoir should be vented, and this vent must remain open. The reservoir cap can be drilled and</p><p>tapped to accept a 90 degree fitting if this helps with clearance issues. If the vent is spitting fluid, it is a sure</p><p>sign that air is in the system and needs to be bled.</p><p>7. Do not bend any fittings. Example: bending a 90 into a 120. This will result in restricted flow.</p><p>8. The reservoir should be filled to 1" below the top of the reservoir (see illustration). On single ended</p><p>cylinder applications this should be measured with the cylinder collapsed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="John Galbreath Jr., post: 585948, member: 31"] Maximum 16" according to PSC. From their site: Reservoir Installation Checklist: 1. Keeping in mind the pump is gravity fed, the reservoir should be the highest point in the power steering system. This will help ensure the pump gets all the fuid it needs as easily as possible, greatly extending the life and performance of the pump. If the reservoir is too low some components may drain back into the reservoir upon engine is shut of. This can cause leaking or, worse, allow air into the system. Another problem with a reservoir mounted low is that the pump will be working overtime, all the time. 2.[color=red] It is preferable to mount the reservoir directly over the pump. If this is not possible, in front of the pump is typically better than behind it.[/color] 3. If the reservoir must mount to the frame, body, etc (anywhere not directly tied to the engine) take special care that the feed line will not become stressed during engine torque over or other twisting and flexing maneuvers. 4. Use a baffled reservoir. A properly baffled reservoir will help keep air out of the system. A non-baffled, or poorly baffled reservoir can introduce air simply by allowing air to mix with the fluid as it enters the reservoir. 5. The feed line should be kept as short and straight as possible. It should not have any dips or sharp bends and should never run below the level of the pump. The feed line should never be crimped, looped, or run horizontal – it should always be flowing downhill into the pump, the steeper the better. The longer the feed line, the harder it is for the pump to draw fluid in.[color=red] It should not exceed 16 inches[/color]. The feed line should also be of suffcient size to meet the demands of the pump, #10 is the recommended minimum. Do not use the supplied -6 pressure line as the feed line, use the -10 feed line. When attaching the feed line to the pump, do not over tighten! The wrench used is typically long providing a great deal of leverage, it is not uncommon to see these fittings twisted off. 6. The reservoir should be vented, and this vent must remain open. The reservoir cap can be drilled and tapped to accept a 90 degree fitting if this helps with clearance issues. If the vent is spitting fluid, it is a sure sign that air is in the system and needs to be bled. 7. Do not bend any fittings. Example: bending a 90 into a 120. This will result in restricted flow. 8. The reservoir should be filled to 1” below the top of the reservoir (see illustration). On single ended cylinder applications this should be measured with the cylinder collapsed. [/QUOTE]
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