• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

SayBye

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
183
dropped my truck off at best buy yesterday to get two subs and an amp installed. figured itll take me twice as longer to do it as it will if i just pay them to do it. 8 hours later, i still have no subs and amp working and they had broken my ipod hookup. so needless to say i wont be going back to them for any audio projects...

ive looked around but havent came up with much... does anyone know of a write up somewhere that tells how exactly to install a sub/amp using the factory head unit in a 05 2500hd with bose? sure would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance.
 
Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

It sucks with Bose.

Just put in a different head unit.

Crutchfield has good tech support, even online. They'll get you what you need either way.
 
if your around bham my buddy used to run an audio shop for a while and does side work
 
Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

I just bought a new Pioneer head unit for mine (but it's not Bose) and am putting amp/subs in it after I make my mind up which amp/sub combo I'm going with. Sucks having limited mounting depth. $130 for the double din Pioneer shipped to my door, ain't a color screen, but has usb/mp3/bluetooth/cd and thats all I was worried about. I'll post a link to it later in case you are interested in going that route. You can also usually sell all that Bose equipment pretty easily or even trade it in to an audio shop when you buy aftermarket equipment. I think I got $90 out of all the factory Bose **** from an 02 Z06 Corvette, better than it sitting in a box in the shop collecting dust.

Sent from my DROID4 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
 
Just done a hd with factory boss Monday. There is a box you can hook up that plugs in the factory wires that have rca outputs. Then you tap into a wire on factory head unit to cut amp on when radio is on. Factory head unit is fine to use and the bose speakers are the best your gona find for your truck.
 
Why would you put subs in it? Bose in my truck sounds fine with me, I'm over the subs stage in my life I guess :dunno:
 
Re: Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

B.DRAKE said:
Why would you put subs in it? Bose in my truck sounds fine with me, I'm over the subs stage in my life I guess :dunno:

Speakers are like ass and titties....more is never a bad thing

Sent from my DROID4 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
 
Re: Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

TacomaJD said:
Speakers are like ass and titties....more is never a bad thing

Sent from my DROID4 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

molaugh well I can't argue with that
 
Re: Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

kmcminn said:
I thought they took your subwoofers up when they gve out highschool diplomas!
:wtflol:

You know what they say, if it's too loud yer too old.....molaugh

Sent from my DROID4 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
 
if Best Buy didnt already sell you a Line Output Converter, you'll need one if you want to keep your factory radio. BB should have them in stock for around $20. it'll have 2 speaker level inputs. If you pull the cup holder up out of your center console you'll see a (4) wire harness going into your factory sub enclosure toward the passenger side of the console. The Line Output Converter needs to be tapped into these wires. You can leave the factory sub hooked up if you want... but usually you wont hear it anymore anyway with the new subs. Factory sub wiring colors are as follows:

OEM sub voice coil 1
dark blue/white (+)
light green/ black (-)

OEM sub voice coil 2
dark green (+)
light blue/black (-)

The other side of the LOC will have RCA outputs that go to your new sub amp.

The only other tricky thing about these trucks is that theres no switched 12+ wire behind the radio to hook up your new amp's remote turn-on to. This is because the factory radio turns on and off with the databus system and not the ignition. But if you remove the knee bolster panel under the steering column, and look just to the left of the column, you'll see some larger gauge wires running towards the fuse box. One of these larger wires is Brown. Its the main accessory circuit and you can use it to power the remote turn-on for your new amp.

Then you just need a sufficient gauge power wire from the battery or alternator, and equal gauge ground wire as short as possible.

Hope this helps.
 
Re: Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

riLo said:
if Best Buy didnt already sell you a Line Output Converter, you'll need one if you want to keep your factory radio. BB should have them in stock for around $20. it'll have 2 speaker level inputs. If you pull the cup holder up out of your center console you'll see a (4) wire harness going into your factory sub enclosure toward the passenger side of the console. The Line Output Converter needs to be tapped into these wires. You can leave the factory sub hooked up if you want... but usually you wont hear it anymore anyway with the new subs. Factory sub wiring colors are as follows:

OEM sub voice coil 1
dark blue/white (+)
light green/ black (-)

OEM sub voice coil 2
dark green (+)
light blue/black (-)

The other side of the LOC will have RCA outputs that go to your new sub amp.

The only other tricky thing about these trucks is that theres no switched 12+ wire behind the radio to hook up your new amp's remote turn-on to. This is because the factory radio turns on and off with the databus system and not the ignition. But if you remove the knee bolster panel under the steering column, and look just to the left of the column, you'll see some larger gauge wires running towards the fuse box. One of these larger wires is Brown. Its the main accessory circuit and you can use it to power the remote turn-on for your new amp.

Then you just need a sufficient gauge power wire from the battery or alternator, and equal gauge ground wire as short as possible.

Hope this helps.


X2
 
SayBye said:
dropped my truck off at best buy yesterday to get two subs and an amp installed. figured itll take me twice as longer to do it as it will if i just pay them to do it. 8 hours later, i still have no subs and amp working and they had broken my ipod hookup. so needless to say i wont be going back to them for any audio projects...

ive looked around but havent came up with much... does anyone know of a write up somewhere that tells how exactly to install a sub/amp using the factory head unit in a 05 2500hd with bose? sure would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance.

I use to do High End custom auto sound systems for a living and still do it. If I remember right you're close to me (correct me if I'm wrong) so if you need any input, guidance or mentoring let me know. Just off the cuff integration into boss systems is always tough but there are many integration adapters out there to make this work. It's tougher than a normal install and could trip up novice/newbie bet buy installers who do more "plug-in-play" stuff than custom stuff. A few companies who provide integration are USA-Spec (iPod aux etc) and Audio Control (amp/sub etc). In my Dodge 3500 with an Infinity 7 speaker setup I used a USA-Spec adapter to integrate the iPod function into the factory head unit with CD changer controls in it and a Audio Control feed by high power spk leads to it to translate into high voltage line level to the amp and two Cerwin Vega subs. I added two 10 subs and 2 Polk Audio tweeters for a total of 11 speakers. Here are some pics of my handy work. Let me know how I can help sir! :dblthumb:

Phoenix Gold amp running at 1/2 ohm mono with a 1.5 fd cap and yes 4 fans draw air over it:
318358_2558254324486_2104530582_n.jpg


Subs in 1.5 ft3 x2 enclosure under rear seats:
319916_2558254484490_280737371_n.jpg


Head Unit and cigarette lighter which operations sub level. The cord you see if for the iPod.
625540_10200999735864426_732994267_n.jpg
 
I'm just curious if any of yall have any input on wheather to go with 2 10's in a underseat downfiring box or a behind the rear seat box with 2 12's or 10's. Seems like from watching youtube vids and reading a bit, the downfiring 10's sound pretty good. Plus there's a downfiring box made that allows over 6" of mounting depth, usually behind the seat boxes only allow about 5 5/16 mounting depth, limiting your woofer selection.

My goal is either 2 10's or 12's (most likely 10's) wired down to 1 ohm on a 1 ohm stable monoblock amp. Just having trouble deciding on a speaker/amp combo. I've used Pyle subs and really liked them because they are cheap and relatively dependable and sound great in the right box, so I'll prolly go with Pyle subs again and maybe a Hifonics mono block or something, idk...still researching. I don't want to be dissappointed after install.
 
I had a 01 Ext. Cab z71 that I had 2 Memphis Audio 10s with 800 watt Rockford Fosgate amp, in a down firing box under the seat and it sounded great!




But that was when I was about 10 years younger and liked it too!! :flipoff1:
 
You can get all of the little things to hook up a aftermarket head unit to factory Bose stuff and make the controls on the steering wheel work also. I dont know where but I saw it on the Duramax forum some where.
 
B.DRAKE said:
I had a 01 Ext. Cab z71 that I had 2 Memphis Audio 10s with 800 watt Rockford Fosgate amp, in a down firing box under the seat and it sounded great!




But that was when I was about 10 years younger and liked it too!! :flipoff1:

I'm thinking downfiring is the way to go. Do I really need all the best options, no.....but if I'm gonna go through the effort of installing it all to get the little extra I want, might as well make sure it'll be badass if I ever need it to be.....you know, like at RBD or something :drinkers: molaugh
 
I have two 10's in a down firing box and like the way they sound. Normally stay turned all the way down unless we are out having a few beers but it's there if I'm in the mood for it. I think mine are power bass :dunno: The audio shop I bought them from said they were made by JL and would be the best sub for the small space they were going in.
 
Top