suspension set-up?

[wheelinjp]

ok so how do I set my suspension up with more rear squat? every time I crawl an obstacle with an undercut ledge near the ground my rear suspension just drives under itself and tries to flip backwards. it has a mildly triangulated 4link upper and lower. I also moved my upper shock mounts out so the motor leads wouldnt rub on the coils. this is on the super mod rig I just bought. I am thinking of doing a tuber body for it, what is the strongest way to build one? I see people brazing and soldering. what is the material for the tubing of choice? I am concerned with it bending with the weight of the clod axles and big tires.

 

[Dude]

Go over to warcrc.org and pm I B RACIN. Tory had a 4 link Clod that worked good back in the day. I have a 4 link Clod, but it is set up with a droop suspension, which is a completely different set up than an old school sprung set up.

As for tube for building a tuber, 3/16" brake line.

 

[I B RACIN]

ok so how do I set my suspension up with more rear squat? every time I crawl an obstacle with an undercut ledge near the ground my rear suspension just drives under itself and tries to flip backwards. it has a mildly triangulated 4link upper and lower. I also moved my upper shock mounts out so the motor leads wouldnt rub on the coils. this is on the super mod rig I just bought. I am thinking of doing a tuber body for it, what is the strongest way to build one? I see people brazing and soldering. what is the material for the tubing of choice? I am concerned with it bending with the weight of the clod axles and big tires.

If you can post up some pics of your rig from the side so I can see what we are working with.

You might be just asking alot from your rig, a bottom undercut is a tough one if the fronts don't have a bite on something.


IB..

 

[wheelinjp]

:awesomework:I will get some pics. I just ran it again and you are right if the front gets traction, it sucks the rear right down. Im out running battery after battery through it to learn how to drive too.

 

[HotRodJosh]

I'd use a combination of 3/16" and 1/4" brakeline and MIG weld it Sean......

 

[wheelinjp]

I'd use a combination of 3/16" and 1/4" brakeline and MIG weld it Sean......

I might have to borrow jr's lil mig then. I have been doing some reading over on rccrawler.com and learning some stuff. I think its pretty set up, I am just learning to drive:cheer: I think I might start working on my links and stuff. the blue locktite fixed alot of problems. I used it on the wheels, the front and rear pinions, and the steering arm bolts. :haha: I also keep ripping off motor leads so I will look into that as well. how long do your trail ruuns last(rc run time) I am getting a good 20min out of my stick battery. I might go to an 11v 4200mah lipo to see if it makes the rig crawl better. the stick is a 7.2v 4500mah in it now.

 

[I B RACIN]

I get about 2hrs from a 4500mah lipo in my super truck.


IB..

 

[HotRodJosh]

Ripping off motor leads? Are they soldered on or just spade connectors?

I get @ 20-30 mins on both rigs....one has 3S 1300 Lipo and 55T, the other 6 cell, 3300 and 55T....
I have a heavy trigger finger....

 

[wheelinjp]

Ok here is a pic showing what it does. I am not too concerned anymore, as I am discovering it is pretty normal. it will flex alot more than this pic shows. The opposing axle can flex to 90degrees from the other. I can lay the front wheel on its side with the rear flat on its two tires. I might be putting this up for sale to get into an axial based scaler or 2.2 rig. I like the realistic looks of the scalers alot. I wanna go on trail runs with josh:hi: the rain sucks btw. I think something with one motor will last on the battery longer. I dont know though this one is sure fun to bash, and it performes so well.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

That things setup for some baddass apartment flexin.:redneck:

They lovem on Ebay that way to. Makes them a PITA to drive.

 

[HotRodJosh]

90* is too much articulation...IMO. What happens is the end that is all tweaked out will take over and pull the rest of the rig on it's side.

What's ripping off the motor leads? The lower links? Or rocks? You could loosely zip tie 'em to your uppers if they're long enough....:awesomework:

 

[wheelinjp]

90* is too much articulation...IMO. What happens is the end that is all tweaked out will take over and pull the rest of the rig on it's side.

What's ripping off the motor leads? The lower links? Or rocks? You could loosely zip tie 'em to your uppers if they're long enough....:awesomework:

the links keep hitting the leads. so they get ripped off also. If I keep it I am thinking of replacing the huge coilovers for smaller ones. there is no reason for the size of these things. that and I thought of replacing the lower links with straight ones since these ones turn over anyway and are worse than straight links. I am also planning on moving the lower link mounting location up alot to the front face of the axle tube instead of under it. I can order some brackets to do that. I am also planning to raise the upper link mount as well. if clods werent so big in the middle(bad ground clearance) I would put some 2.2s on it without the spacers, shorten the wheelbase a couple inches and run it as a scaler with rear steer. I still might. I really like working on this thing alot. it is like a full size wheeler being worked on by a giant haha.:haha::haha: Maybe one day we can meet up to do some crawling and we can look at it with holding one of your 2.2s up to it and see how that would work. You up for that?

 

[wheelinjp]

ok I made this mount out of a valve stem air cap and a bolt. I just did the rear so I can see how it holds up. the skull is cast plastic. I dont know how strong it needs to be. I almost used a chrome bullet. at least it was steel.

 

[HotRodJosh]

Maybe one day we can meet up to do some crawling and we can look at it with holding one of your 2.2s up to it and see how that would work. You up for that?

No problem :beer: .....the guys at work and I will sometimes crawl under the bridge between Sumner and Puyallup, by Anton's after work....some good rock there, especially for a Super.:awesomework:
There's a few good places in the Puyallup area for crawlin'....

 

[I B RACIN]

Ok here is a pic showing what it does. I am not too concerned anymore, as I am discovering it is pretty normal. it will flex alot more than this pic shows. The opposing axle can flex to 90degrees from the other. I can lay the front wheel on its side with the rear flat on its two tires. I might be putting this up for sale to get into an axial based scaler or 2.2 rig. I like the realistic looks of the scalers alot. I wanna go on trail runs with josh:hi: the rain sucks btw. I think something with one motor will last on the battery longer. I dont know though this one is sure fun to bash, and it performes so well.

The best I can tell with the body on is it looks like the 4 link mounting is way off.
You will want it to look something like this from the side, get the top rear bar way down this moves the instant center way back in the truck and wont let it lift on the front so much, run the front with a little more separation about level with the ground.
As for flex all you want is about a tire hight.

IB..

 

[wheelinjp]

I will do that. also what is a good way to limit travel? my shocks are so long they travel too far. I was thinking of a limiting strap on the shock.

 

[Dude]

what is a good way to limit travel? my shocks are so long they travel too far. I was thinking of a limiting strap on the shock.

You would want to get some fuel line tubing for a nitro car. Cut to the length that will work, take the shocks apart, and install the length of fuel line under the little disk that is on the shock shaft.

You will have to unscrew the ball end off of the shock shaft to do this. It is very easy to do. Of course you will need some shock oil to refill, I would go 50wt at least if not a bit heavier.

 

[I B RACIN]

I have found that the fuel line tube on the big trucks don't last very long then it splits, You can limt you travel on the out side with extra shock pistons or a plastic spacers from the hobby shop or hardware store.


IB..

 

[wheelinjp]

does anyone run 2.2 wheels and tires on clod axles? when I redo the links I want to shorten the wheelbase a few inches and run a tall 2.2 tire with beadlocks. I need to order my link mounts for the lowers for clod axles since mine are too low right now. my rear suspension is definitely set up wrong. here is a better picture of the issue. after running it with the big moabs on a nice rockpile, the big tires are more a pain than fun so I want to try something much narrower and shorter. hopefully it wont be too rough on ground clearance. I saw somewhere that they make a 7in tall 2.4in tire too. i might need those.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Are you just looking for a reason to spend money on this thing?

In about 5 minutes with a cordless drill you can have those links level for FREE!

the lowers and uppers could be longer if possible. Link tube costs abot 2.50 a foot. you can reuse your ends.

Ordering clod parts is not needed. you can drill a hole in the knuckle for a lower mount that is higher than before.

YOU WILL NOT LIKE 2.2 RIMS/TIRES ON CLOD AXLES.:beer: