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TJ build. Recidivist

Ricks2456

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2014
Messages
103
Kinda on the fence about doing a build thread. But I'd like to hear some feedback and suggestions so here we go. I'll say this, I'm no professional and my stuff will never be as nice ( or as expensive) as lots of rigs. I'm building this in my two car garage with basic tools and a small welder. I redo lots of things before I'm happy. I also take forever to get things done. I started this around July.

I named this jeep Recidivist because I've built before and swore I wouldn't again. Little history of what I've done before.







I had started on a YJ but this as far as I got.



I built a camaro after the YJ. Lost interest as soon as I finished it. Maybe I just like building stuff lol.

So I got the itch to start something else and decided on a TJ. Picked up a clean tub and drug it home.





Picked up some axles. It's a Dana 50. I know. I got it stupid cheap with the truss, gears and locker. Regular ol 14 bolt, needs gears and a locker. I got the truss from Undercover fab I believe. The pinion guard I think from Barnes.







Complete 5.3 with harness and computer. And I stole a NV4500 locally. I got it with the bell housing etc removed from a complete truck, Borg Warner transfer case, and both driveshafts for $400. And they pulled it for me lol. In the rain. I'm going to run that transfer case because there's nothing wrong with it. It has a 2.72 low range and fixed output yokes. 1410 rear and 1350 front. It came from a 1999 3500 behind a 454.












Picked up some steel and started making a frame. It's 2x4 3/16's wall. I still have mixed feelings about this. The steel cost about as much as buying a TJ frame would have. It was a lot of work. There are still some things I'm working out with how I built the frame. I was able to gain a lot of clearance building it. Most the LCG TJ builds I've seen replace the front and rear frame sections. I did make my sliders my body mounts too. I built this on my garage floor so level and square are curse words. Overall I'm pleased with it and I think it's strong. I fish plated all the seams inside and out.

























At some point I made a cart for my welder




leaning towards raking the grill like so.




Currently it sits just like this. Drivetrain slung in there. I have to cut the floor quite a bit to get it tucked up in there for a flat belly. Next is drivetrain mounts.






I have most everything I need to start the suspension once I have the drivetrain mounted. 3 link with a pan hard for the front, really interested in a set of ORI's. And 4 link rear with TJ coils. I can take pictures of anything anyone wants to see. I just hope this encourages anyone working on a budget with minimal tools. You don't have to pay a shop tons to build your stuff.
 
Looks like a nice start, cool to the build going on using the front porch and small garage. Hope to see it get finish. :dblthumb:
 
No worries about doing a build thread on Hardline. We keep the Dbags to a minimum. Your work seems to be above average with a good drivetrain. I'm in to see the outcome. Good luck.
 
I do owe Hardline a shoutout for leading me to lots of good deals. I wouldn't be able to build this without good used parts and Hardline has the best classifieds for my area.
 
Nothing better than building cool **** with limited-no equipment and using whatever you can scrape up :****: :dblthumb: I'm stealing your welding cart idea for a plasma cutter cart! Living on the edge of the ghetto and close to a grocery store means theres tons of abandon shopping carts around thanks to all the :afro: and meth heads
 
Any recommendations for a steering box? I was looking at doing an astro van one but I won't need the reverse throw. I'd like to keep it inside the framerail so I can match my drag link and panhard. Junkyard options are best.
 
Got the motor mounts tacked in. I bought some $25 plates off of eBay and grinded off the powder coat. Then welded some tabs on. After I get the suspension mocked up I'm taking it all the way down to the frame to finish welding. I'm terrible upside down.











Of course I ran out of gas for my welder at 1645. Makes tacking stuff in harder.
 





Full bump will be about an inch lower than that. Should put the belly at around 18" at full bump. Still playing with it. Gonna get on the link calculator and see what I need to do with my upper link. I'm using ruff stuff 1.25" hiems and 2" .25" wall Dom for my links. I'll be using the same for all my links front and rear. Overkill for the uppers but I bought an entire stick of Dom local for a good price and can get all 7 links out of it.
 
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