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Tow rig problems

chance

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
416
Location
puyallup
My buddy has my old pickup and he can't get it to start. When I had It, I had the motor replaced and the transmission. Last month he was driving home and the pickup just died and had to have it towed home. Last week he was able to just start it up and drive it without any problems. Today he tried starting it but all it does is just turn over. He put a new cap and rotor in and starting relay but the pickup still won't start. Anybody have any ideas on what should be his next step on trying to get this issue fixed?

1993 Chevy 2500
Single cab 4x4
Small lift on 35s
 
I'd guess a fuel pump as well, I had one die on my 97 last summer. I have a good thread on it somewhere on here.

It is also easier to move the bed back than drop the tank.
 
I'd guess a fuel pump as well, I had one die on my 97 last summer. I have a good thread on it somewhere on here.

It is also easier to move the bed back than drop the tank.

yes true just undo the bed bolts which i think there is only 8 of them. then just lift one side of the bed an put a jack stand to hold it up. then its right there. easypeasy
 
I'm the buddy w/ the truck problem! :) Anyway, I was running low on fuel, had a slight hesitation, then half a mile later it went completely dead. Nothing. I suspected spark like Chance said so I changed the cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. Still nothing. I figured would get at least a sputter if I sprayed starter fluid or gas in the TBI but I don't. It just turns over without signs of trying to start. Could fuel still be the issue?
 
I'm the buddy w/ the truck problem! :) Anyway, I was running low on fuel, had a slight hesitation, then half a mile later it went completely dead. Nothing. I suspected spark like Chance said so I changed the cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. Still nothing. I figured would get at least a sputter if I sprayed starter fluid or gas in the TBI but I don't. It just turns over without signs of trying to start. Could fuel still be the issue?

have you checked for spark? are you spraying starting fluid strait down the tb?
 
Yes, I sprayed starting fluid in my rig and it didn't sputter. You can check for fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel line on the backside of the engine near the firewall. If you push the center pin in on the valve and no fuel comes out, it means your not making fuel pressure.

Here was my thread on a similar issue, lots of good diagnostic info in there.
http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73594
 
Also, yes I checked for spark by both leaving the plug in the plug wire and putting it against the block and by putting a socket extension in the plug wire and putting it close to the block to see if I could get an arch. Nothing I could see..
 
there is an easy way to replace the pump with out messing with the bed.


jack the truck up at the read diff as high as you can get it, then support the frame [I have some old really tall jack stands that I placed at the rear frame rails], then undo the shocks at the lower mounts, then let the rear end hang.

now you can start dropping the fuel tank down but not all the way with out damaging the fuel lines and wires, support the tank with a ratchet strap.

you should be able to sit under the truck now and get to the sender/pump bung on the, and be able to pull it out [the pump/sender telescopes under spring pressure] so you can pull it up and grab part of it and compress it and get the pump the rest of the way out. if you have a big fat head you might pull the drive shaft for more room and then check the u=joints on that while it's out.

I did all this on a 90+ deg day while home with a broken ankle so you have no excuse to do it.:awesomework:
 
Also, yes I checked for spark by both leaving the plug in the plug wire and putting it against the block and by putting a socket extension in the plug wire and putting it close to the block to see if I could get an arch. Nothing I could see..

so sounds like you lost spark then. so could be the distributor or coil
 
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there is an easy way to replace the pump with out messing with the bed.


jack the truck up at the read diff as high as you can get it, then support the frame [I have some old really tall jack stands that I placed at the rear frame rails], then undo the shocks at the lower mounts, then let the rear end hang.

now you can start dropping the fuel tank down but not all the way with out damaging the fuel lines and wires, support the tank with a ratchet strap.

you should be able to sit under the truck now and get to the sender/pump bung on the, and be able to pull it out [the pump/sender telescopes under spring pressure] so you can pull it up and grab part of it and compress it and get the pump the rest of the way out. if you have a big fat head you might pull the drive shaft for more room and then check the u=joints on that while it's out.

I did all this on a 90+ deg day while home with a broken ankle so you have no excuse to do it.:awesomework:

All I really have to work with in this department is just your standard floor jack...not sure if I will be able to get it very high. So you think the fuel pump is my problem then?
 
All I really have to work with in this department is just your standard floor jack...not sure if I will be able to get it very high. So you think the fuel pump is my problem then?

I don't know if you have a wimpy little cute floor jack or a MAN size floor jack that gets used on off road rigs and trucks, so the floor jack I have placed right under the center of the rear diff lifted the truck up 24" more than it was at rest.

I do not know if you need the fuel pump replaced. it sounds like you are getting some good advise on basic trouble shooting the nature of the non=start issue. follow through with the trouble shooting to find the failing part.
 
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