Toyota guys we need help.

[nutter]

My buddy did an sas on an 86 toyota 22re and now we cant get any pressure to the brakes. He has put three new masters in it and still nothing. We get fluid through the lines but not enuff pressure to make the brakes work. Any ideas?

 

[HOrunner]

I would try replacing the master cylinder again:awesomework:

 

[Darby1]

Just front calipers or rear drums too? What happens when you are bleeding them?

I've had calipers go bad in a variety of ways. Maybe they sat for too long and are seized up.

 

[HotRodJosh]

Did you reuse the calipers from the IFS or the calipers from the straight axle?
If from st8 axle, bet they're seized like Darby suggested.
Oh, and are you bench bleeding the MC?

 

[Eric]

Front or rear breaks? or all?

How much fluid comes out when the bleders are cracked open?

The "new" MC is from where? spend the extra and get a good one. Some Toyota parts are worth the extra money. And as already said, bench bleed the sucker.

Did he reuse the rubber break lines? Replace the rubber ones with new ones, the old ones will start to act like check valves.

Is the rear proportioning valve still in place?

How hard are you steping on the pedel? with out vacume assist? or With?

 

[karhart77]

Oh, and are you bench bleeding the MC?

^What he said?

 

[boardbysled]

I would try replacing the master cylinder again:awesomework:

x2!:corn:

 

[fatkid81]

If i were to have to guess i would say calipers i have seen new calipers on a buddys rig fix that same problem and also is you vacume assist from the booster hooked up? and is there any holes in it?

 

[Darby1]

If it were the vacume assist you would still have brakes, the pedal would just be hard to push. And I'm thinking 3 different Master Cylinders have probably ruled out that problem. Expanding rubber brake lines is an interesting thought but those lines usually hold up pretty well. Any kinks in the hard line should be pretty obvious and should only affect one side.

 

[nutter]

We took the brake lines off the calipers and were getting good pressure out of them but when we hook them up and try to bleed them it barely dribbles out. We bench blead the master three times and when i put the air blower up to the brake line hole on the caliper it locks the brakes up good.

 

[nate8887]

Call Larry He will hook u up

 

[Exploder]

Try taking a piece of clear tubing that fits snug on the bleeder valve and tying the open end vertically so that any air will rise to the top of the tube ( I use about 3 to 4 feet and have the very end go into a catch jar tied up to the top of the fender with a coat hanger)crack the valve a little and pump the brakes slowly till no more bubbles go up the tube,close the valve with the tube still attached then do the other three. You said you have pressure from the Master and that the caliper pistons are not frooze this proceure should fix the problem. It may take a while to get all the air out so check and make sure you don't run out of blake fluid at the Master or you will have to start all over. I have done this a few times and it works great when you have some one to pump the brakes!

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Please take the bleeder valve completely out and try to blow though it with your mouth or air.

If it does not flow easily, then use a small drill bit to bore the compacted dirt out. It usually takes a very small bit to bore the dirt out of the shorter hole coming in from the side.

Then give it a try bleeding it.:awesomework:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

If the bleeder is not plugged and the calipers are not seized then its user induced. Toyota brakes bleed right out when all is working well.

And for the record (ive been thu a few toyotas) I have never had a collapsed, spongy, torn, leaking factory toyota rubber line.

I have killed lots of SS lines, custom and aftermarket. I prefer rubber on brakes.

 

[Darby1]

If the bleeder is not plugged and the calipers are not seized then its user induced. Toyota brakes bleed right out when all is working well.

And for the record (ive been thu a few toyotas) I have never had a collapsed, spongy, torn, leaking factory toyota rubber line.

I have killed lots of SS lines, custom and aftermarket. I prefer rubber on brakes.

^ x2 they are super easy to bleed. Clear line hleps but 2 of you can bleed them in a couple minutes. Just start from the furthest point, drivers rear I think.

 

[Corey Y]

Air bleeders go on top. Check to see if the piston is sticking in the mastercylinder. :haha:

 

[nutter]

lol i will try both of those things will see how it works then. Maybe we will just try to stretch the piston spring out and just let our foot off the brake really fast every time we push it.

 

[Corey Y]

Maybe we will just try to stretch the piston spring out and just let our foot off the brake really fast every time we push it.

If that doesn't work just use the E-brake. :flipoff:

 

[nutter]

We decided were just gonna putt a long 2x4 on a hing through the floor and drag it when we need to stop:awesomework:

 

[Pook]

Air bleeders go on top. Check to see if the piston is sticking in the mastercylinder. :haha:

x2 on the bleeders, wouldn't be the first time I've seen it.

Also check your pushrod on the MC for adjustment. If your not getting a full stoke of the pedal it will never bleed properly.