toyota help!

[Thegreasemonkey]

my 3vz is pissing me off!!! i replaced the knock sensor and rewired from the ecu to the sensor and replaced the ecu, its throwing a code 51 now which is supposed to just be AC being on. it still acts like the knock sensor is bad... wtf? :booo:

 

[skinny_pedal]

Whats the runnability like?

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

it runs but has very little power and you cant use over maybe 1/4 throttle just like the knock sensor is bad.

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

now the damn thing is throwing a code 11, intermittent power drop to ecu. tonight im gonna go through and clean all the grounds and di-electric grease them, also gonna go through all the other connections i can find and do the same.
at least it isnt a jeep! it wouldn't even start then!

 

[Land Pirates Off Road]

We were going to suggest the grounds and the connection cleaning... Let us know how that works out!
Electrical stuff sucks... we feel your pain

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

got all the grounds cleaned, greased and put back together aaaaaand......... the battery is dead:booo:..... fml. some dumbass:looser: left something turned on last night and the yellow top optima is dead as a doornob, the battery is charging so i went ahead and mounted my fog lights. gotta take the wife to a appointment then hopefully this friggin thing will start!

 

[zukkev]

at least it isnt a jeep! it wouldn't even start then!

Jinxed yerself, didn't cha! :fawkdancesmiley: :haha: :byebye:

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

Jinxed yerself, didn't cha! :fawkdancesmiley: :haha: :byebye:

its what i get for leaving the ign on overnight, it starts now:fawkdancesmiley: still getting a code 52 which is knock sensor, im tempted to sell the fawker and get a 22re powered one........

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

hey crash any ideas? im almost to the end of my rope with this damn thing.......

 

[Thanatos]

2RZ swap

 

[skinny_pedal]

Few things to try

-Disconnect the knock sensor connector and check for a key on engine off reference voltage of 0.015 to be applied from the Electronic Control Unit (ECU).

- Check for AC output voltage on a lab scope coming from the knock sensor during crank. A very small amount of voltage should be present.

- Revving the engine between 3500 and 4000 RPM, a frequency reading of 7000 to 8000 Hz should be coming from the knock sensor. If the knock sensor signal tests good at the ECM, the ECM could be faulty.




The wire harness on the knock sensor can get brittle and break a few strands of wire when the harness is moved during a cylinder head replacement. Chances are extremely good that the harness under the intake manifold has a few broken wires. Knock sensors rarely fail but when taking the intake off to replace the sub harness, it is a safer bet to replace the knock sensor as well to avoid repeating the labor for free.

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

2RZ swap

i would, but im broke. wanna donate one?:masturbanana[1]:

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

Few things to try

-Disconnect the knock sensor connector and check for a key on engine off reference voltage of 0.015 to be applied from the Electronic Control Unit (ECU).

- Check for AC output voltage on a lab scope coming from the knock sensor during crank. A very small amount of voltage should be present.

- Revving the engine between 3500 and 4000 RPM, a frequency reading of 7000 to 8000 Hz should be coming from the knock sensor. If the knock sensor signal tests good at the ECM, the ECM could be faulty.



The wire harness on the knock sensor can get brittle and break a few strands of wire when the harness is moved during a cylinder head replacement. Chances are extremely good that the harness under the intake manifold has a few broken wires. Knock sensors rarely fail but when taking the intake off to replace the sub harness, it is a safer bet to replace the knock sensor as well to avoid repeating the labor for free.

i have tried 3 different knock sensors one is brand new, also have 2 different ecu's, have rewired the knock sensor completely with cb antenna wire and grounded the shielding wire to the ecu.

edit: and it wont rev to 4k because of the "safe" mode.

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

ok so fixed the knock sensor, call me a dumbass but i just had it wired to the wrong friggin wire as per the manual.. all better now, still wont rev right and cant use full throttle. throwing a code 51 when i pull the codes, but does not light the CEL when im not pulling codes. friggin tired of screwing with this thing!!

 

[Land Pirates Off Road]

2RZ is an awesome engine... =-)

 

[skinny_pedal]

The throttle bore and throttle plates may be carboned up. This causes the throttle to hang open preventing the throttle position sensor idle contacts from closing. When this occurs, the ECU advances ignition timing beyond the idle mode causing the problem.

Backprobe the signal wire at the idle contacts with a meter. There should be 0 volts at idle and 5.0, 11.0 or 12.0 volts when the throttle is opened approximately 1/4". If there is voltage in the idle mode, check the throttle plates and clean them if any carbon is present. Also, check to see that the idle stop screw has not been moved. If the voltage at the idle switch does not drop to 0 volts after cleaning and adjustment, replace the idle switch

Be patient, its just nuts, bolts and wires. It can be fixed:awesomework:

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

the throttlebody is clean, im tempted to take it off and clean it... what idle switch? ill look at it again in the morning. i adjusted the vafm and it runs worse when its leaned out, wondering if its any good? anyone got a spare i could borrow?

 

[Thegreasemonkey]

ever fix something and feel completely stupid that it took you so long?
put a fuel filter in it and it runs like a champ!!! got 2nd gear rubber with 35"s and 4.88's!!!! gonna tune it and put the new plugs i bought in, woooooohooooooooo!!