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Toyota people, please help. Need suggestions...

Trevor

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Mar 27, 2006
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This is a car, not a truck. I appologize. Trying to help a guy in need get his car running again so he can try to get back to work.

Here is what I know:

88 toy celica gt 140K miles (4 cyl 5 speed) (not sure which 4 cyl it has cause the sticker on valve cover is gone). He was driving down the road 2 months ago. Out of the blue, the car died. He cranked on it, and it just about started... ran for about 5 seconds at 300 rpm. The longer you crank, the faster the motor turns over until you can let go of the key and it barely runs.

He got it towed home. He is not mechanically inclined at all. He did a tune up (cap/rotor/plugs/wires), and changed the fuel pump. No change.

I went down there yesterday. Did a fuel pressure test at the filter and got about 35-40. I then checked at the cold start injector and got about 28-32. So I dropped the tank and did a fuel pump. Now I have about 50 at the filter, and 48 at the cold start injector. Same problem though. Car won't run.

So then he tells me that when he changed the distributor cap, there was a bunch of oil in there. So I pull it off, and find that the coil has super-heated and ballooned. It was cracked all over the place, and the epoxy was blown out. So this is where the oil came from. So today he went and got a new coil, and put that in. Car still doesn't run. However, now with the new coil, it tries to start right away, and when you do quit cranking on the starter, it runs for about 20 seconds at 400 rpm (versus 5-10 seconds at 300 rpm) (also, while it is kinda running, the check engine light goes off)

You can't give it any gas at all, or it instantly dies.

I don't want to have him keep throwing money at it trying to guess the problem (he is unemployed and trying to find work, but has only been looking for jobs that he can ride his bicycle to since his car doesn't run).

Anyone had any experiences like this? I have googled, and googled, and googled, but not finding anything worth trying.

Should I be looking at ignition module? TPS sensor? I'm stumped at this point.

Any input is greatly appreciated at this point.
 
88 should be 2.0L (I forget the Toyota designation...)
The oil is not from the coil, it's from a bad dist shaft seal...seen it waaay too many times. Also, look closely at the reluctor wheel for the cam sensor in there---if it has evidence of arching where the wheel teeth pass by the coil, the old coil likely fried the sensor...Hope that helps...
But yeah, I'm with B-rad---verify the engine's integrity. Have you checked to see whether it has possibly jumped time? These are easy to check...
 
But yeah, I'm with B-rad---verify the engine's integrity. Have you checked to see whether it has possibly jumped time? These are easy to check...

Jumped timing is what I was thinking. If its a belt/non interference motor then its almost easier to replace the belt than chasing fuel/elec gremlins.

I have banged my head trying to chase tuneup, runability problems just to finally give in and roll a comp test and realize its mechanical.

Hope its just something simple.
 
Yup...bring the crank to #1 TDC compression stroke...there's a plug in the upper timing cover of these that you can check to see if the little window on the cam pulley allows you to see the mark on the head (cam cap)...if it does, the belt hasn't jumped, but that still doesn't rule out a bad woodruff key, allowing the pulley(s) to come out of time from either the crank or cam. But that's pretty rare.
 
Thanx for all the replies so far guys! I will do a compression test next. Seems the easiest and most logical at this point.

Couple things to point out:
-This is a chain motor, not a belt motor (timing chain). Don't know if that makes a difference in your opinion of it jumping timing (I have had chains jump a tooth before, so I'm not gonna rule that out).
-Also, the shaft seal is just fine in the distributor. Down inside the distributor is nice and dry and oil free. All the oil was out in front lower corner in front of the coil. Like I said before, all the epoxy was broken on the coil (coils are oil filled in case anyone didn't know). Once I took the coil out, I tipped it upside down and finished pouring the remaining oil out. LOL
-I also did look real closely at the reluctor wheel for any signs of arching, and did not see anything. That doesn't mean that all is good with the cam sensor, just saying it didn't show signs of arching.
-There is no schrader valve on the rail. But that doesn't matter. I have already done a pressure test and know that I have good fuel pressure.
-Another thing I forgot to mention. Put a screwdriver in the plug wire and put near metal and there is really good spark now.
-Yes, this is a 20R motor, but there was 3 versions of it that could be in this car. I am not sure which version it is. At this point though, it doesn't really matter.

I guess I was hoping for a quick dumb fix. I know better, but was hoping someone would say "oh yeah, I've had that. Here is your quick/easy fix". In reality, it takes 3 things for a motor to run. Fuel, spark, compression. I know that I have fuel, I know that I have spark, and I DON'T know that I have compression....
 
88 Celica was front drive, which never had a 20R, so you must have a rear drive (older square body style)...Sorry about the wrong info...
 
UGH - So I got wrong info from the guy at the parts house. I was told that this thing had a 20r. However, my buddy at Napa today informed me that they didn't use the 20r in a front wheel drive car. So as of now, here is what I believe to be true. It is in fact an 1988, front wheel drive, with a 3sfe motor (according to the vin number). It is a dual overhead cam with a timing belt, not a timing chain.

I had him (the guy who owns the car) pull the plugs this morning as I am going to have him do a compression test. Even though he put these plugs in 2 months ago, and the car hasn't run since, these things are EXTREMELY fuel soaked/fouled. 2 months of cranking on it without firing has definately done a number on these. Regardless of what else may still be wrong with this car, these plugs are NOT helping anything. LOL

It will probably be tomorrow night before he can do the compression test, so I will report back then.

Sorry for bad info about what motor it really has.

Thanx.
 
It sounds like it jumped a tooth on the timing belt. Do you know the history on the belt? Can you look at it for missing teeth?
 
Do not know history of the belt. He just got out of the army not too long ago and bought the car from someone being sent oversees, so no real easy way to get ahold of previous owner.

Not a penny will be spent till compression test is done.
 
Just a thought....an old friend had a toyota van that he took in for a tune up and oil change....well story goes that the tune up place replaced the Nippon Denso plugs with there MIghty brand cheepys and the van never rean right after that.....we replaced the Mighty plugs with the correct ND plugs and the rig ran tits!!!!! Just a suggestion!!!:D:beer:
 
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